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Are voltage regulators alternator/amperage specific or universal?


damesta

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I can't really find a straight answer on this, are voltage regulators made to regulate within a certain amperage and pair with specific alternators...or are all the Datsun regulators pretty much the same with different plugs?

 

I recently installed a 60 amp alt from a 77' 200sx in my 72' 620, I replaced the voltage regulator with a new AC Delco solid state unit for a 72' 620 at the same time...this was just over a week ago, all was well for a week, battery was charging and I was pulling just over 14v while driving. Started the truck today and the charge light stayed on and now I'm only pulling about 12v while driving...I thought the alternator was going out but decided to swap in the old 620 voltage regulator before messing with the alternator and sure enough, everything was back to normal with the old regulator. Swapped the new solid state back again in to verify as well and it is definitely the problem.

 

So I'm curious if I unintentionally burned this new regulator up by running it on a 60 amp alternator when it was made for the stock 35 amp....or did I just get a shitty regulator that failed within a week? Two options moving forward are to exchange this vr for another of the same model, it is under warranty....or I can buy a matching regulator for my alternator from a 77' 200sx and wire the plug on to fit my 72' 620. 

 

Any advice?

Edited by damesta
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The 'solid state' ones tend to be crap. Take it back and try another. All the regulator does is sense the voltage of the battery and send a small amount of current through the alternator to increase the magnetic field. This in turn increases the output which the regulator senses and adjust the current up or down to maintain a preset amount of charge.... usually about 14.5 or so.

 

If you replace with a mechanical '77 200sx regulator you are in the same boat. Only the original Nissan regulators are worth a damn.

 

Did you know that from '78 on, all Datsun/Nissan alternators have a built in regulator? Your regulator can be removed and two pairs of wires joined together to convert over to use it.

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4 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

The 'solid state' ones tend to be crap. Take it back and try another. All the regulator does is sense the voltage of the battery and send a small amount of current through the alternator to increase the magnetic field. This in turn increases the output which the regulator senses and adjust the current up or down to maintain a preset amount of charge.... usually about 14.5 or so.

 

If you replace with a mechanical '77 200sx regulator you are in the same boat. Only the original Nissan regulators are worth a damn.

 

Did you know that from '78 on, all Datsun/Nissan alternators have a built in regulator? Your regulator can be removed and two pairs of wires joined together to convert over to use it.

 

I'd have to buy another alternator from a 78 to bypass the external voltage regulator though, I already have the 77 alternator. I bought the solid state because I read multiple places they we're better than the mechanical ones. I have the mechanical one that came with the truck hooked up now and working fine but I don't think it's oem.

 

So what's the best choice at this point? A new mechanical regulator for a 72 620 that will plug straight in....or do I need to spend the extra money to get one from a 77 200sx and wire it in?

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4 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

You can get a 60 amp, internally regulated, with one simple mod...next time

 

So the 78 200sx internally regulated bolts in the same, correct? The mod your talking about just bypassing the voltage regulator?

Edited by damesta
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Yes, but you are again buying a re manufactured item. Just like the solid state regulator they are not the best quality these days. You may have a lifetime warranty but it doesn't pay for the towing bill or the time/trouble to pull the no good one and come in for the replacement one. The best ones are the original Hitachi that came on the Datsun car. The original Hitachi alternator would have been worth almost $400 so you can see how cheap these are today.

 

You have one that works and went out and bought one that doesn't. Take it back for a new one under warranty and  put the new one in and keep the mechanical one in case the new one quits.

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18 minutes ago, damesta said:

 

So the 78 200sx internally regulated bolts in the same, correct? The mod your talking about just bypassing the voltage regulator?

 

Well, you got me, I don't know for sure on those particular models what the differences are, but generally, it's pretty easy.  And to avoid crappy remans, find a junkyard OEM donor or maybe an OEM donor on ebay.

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.

I had a bad alternaor and it would pop the solid state volt regs when I start the truck.

The solid state Wells USA made brand is OK but I too went back to the Japan made mechanical volt regs.As what happen above when they were breaking .Mechanical they are abit more durable. But more expensive. In my 510 I have a solid state one and its been good for years.

also nothing wrong with a external volt reg  60 amps should be fine also if your just running the basic stuff. I run the 35amp my 521with H4 lamps and its in the edge of being Ok. I juststart my truck and run it for a miute or so before turing the lights on to get a good charge back on the battery.

I think Rockauto.com and Partsgeek list brand new alternators now at least for the 510/521. they made in China but I have one installed now. Im giving it a try as the rebuilds are now most Chinese rebuilds also but only seem to get 8 months out of them.

 

run a volt meter or a cig light type volt meter and stay on it. Most alternators are JUNK .

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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6 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

.

I had a bad alternaor and it would pop the solid state volt regs when I start the truck.

The solid state Wells USA made brand is OK but I too went back to the Japan made mechanical volt regs.As what happen above when they were breaking .Mechanical they are abit more durable. But more expensive. In my 510 I have a solid state one and its been good for years.

also nothing wrong with a external volt reg  60 amps should be fine also if your just running the basic stuff. I run the 35amp my 521with H4 lamps and its in the edge of being Ok. I juststart my truck and run it for a miute or so before turing the lights on to get a good charge back on the battery.

I think Rockauto.com and Partsgeek list brand new alternators now at least for the 510/521. they made in China but I have one installed now. Im giving it a try as the rebuilds are now most Chinese rebuilds also but only seem to get 8 months out of them.

 

run a volt meter or a cig light type volt meter and stay on it. Most alternators are JUNK .

 

I do have a voltage meter in my lighter I watch so I stay on top of it. Alternator seems fine so far, drove around today with the old mechanical regulator in with no problems. I guess I'll see what happens when the replacement solid state gets here, hopefully it will last a while. If not maybe I'll order a Wells mechanical or look into an IR alternator.

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I have a '76 so a couple of years before they went to internally regulated. I also wanted more output so My sedan got an S13 KA24E (I think 80/90 amp) My goon I found a 100 amp from a 2002 Altima in a wrecking yard. I think it was $25 bucks. I had to be creative to get it mounted and the V belt pulley fit right on with a shim. Had it for about 6-7 years now. Lights don't dim at stops with the wipers and heater on when you turn the signals on. If the battery is low from sitting the belt will screech on start up because of the heavy charge load. I bet you could weld with it. 

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16 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

to me  IR or external volt reg  ALTERNATOR and If its a O Riely or  Autozone rebuild I consider them like waiting for a time bomb to go off.

I had my 521 since Jan 2000 I swear I had 10 alternators in it already and have 3 spares ready to go

 

I agree, but at least they are cheap (most only 30-40 after the core) and Autozone.com has free next day shipping on most of them now as well if your local store doesn't carry them. I fully expect I will have to replace them every 2-3 years...bonus if I get more than that out of it but I don't drive the truck a whole lot, so I guess we'll see.

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Lets examine what you can get for a $40 free replacement alternator...

 

Stranded somewhere, a ghetto, rural, city center, in traffic or interstate 10 miles from the next exit. It's 1:30 am, or raining or snowing. No cell phone coverage. It's an emergency, and you just HAVE to get where you are going. Unlikely? How about farther from home that you would like to walk? You are at least stranded .... somewhere, even if in your driveway. Late for work.

 

What to do? Tow truck to get you home. Luckily you have AAA and the $110 bill is paid. No coverage? well you have a friend with a flat bed that you can beg him to use I guess. In a pinch another car puts booster cables on and recharges your battery in half an hour but being dark, the battery runs out in the next 20 miles again.... or you make it home.

 

Now what? Wait till the next day or off work and climb under the hood and remove the old alternator, oh yeah, it's still raining or cold or snowing or dark. You had to make alternate plans to get to work and back. Get a ride to the replacement center after finding warranty card for old alternator and get a new one ordered and go home. Next day, after work pick up 'new' alternator and exchange for the old one, get ride home. Spend the evening outside in the dark (stopped raining) putting it in so you can drive to work. At least one or two of the above will apply to your situation.

 

You tell yourself that you were damned smart to get a lifetime warranty  and free replacement alternator for so cheap. This is the third free one and you are way ahead of the game.

 

 

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

Lets examine what you can get for a $40 free replacement alternator...

 

Stranded somewhere, a ghetto, rural, city center, in traffic or interstate 10 miles from the next exit. It's 1:30 am, or raining or snowing. No cell phone coverage. It's an emergency, and you just HAVE to get where you are going. Unlikely? How about farther from home that you would like to walk? You are at least stranded .... somewhere, even if in your driveway. Late for work.

 

What to do? Tow truck to get you home. Luckily you have AAA and the $110 bill is paid. No coverage? well you have a friend with a flat bed that you can beg him to use I guess. In a pinch another car puts booster cables on and recharges your battery in half an hour but being dark, the battery runs out in the next 20 miles again.... or you make it home.

 

Now what? Wait till the next day or off work and climb under the hood and remove the old alternator, oh yeah, it's still raining or cold or snowing or dark. You had to make alternate plans to get to work and back. Get a ride to the replacement center after finding warranty card for old alternator and get a new one ordered and go home. Next day, after work pick up 'new' alternator and exchange for the old one, get ride home. Spend the evening outside in the dark (stopped raining) putting it in so you can drive to work. At least one or two of the above will apply to your situation.

 

You tell yourself that you were damned smart to get a lifetime warranty  and free replacement alternator for so cheap. This is the third free one and you are way ahead of the game.

 

 

 

I'm not disagreeing with any of that....but I can't buy a new Hitachi anywhere and a 50 year old oem junkyard alt with unknown history is just as much of a gamble in my opinion. This is why I have an aftermarket voltage gauge I keep a close eye on. I also have free towing/roadside assistance with my insurance and another vehicle and car hauler at home I can use if I need to.

 

What's the better alternative? Are there any really good quality remans or new alts out there?

Edited by damesta
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LIke I said there is NEW alternators but made in China from Rockauto. Im trying one right now in my 521. We will see. But youll be long gone if this does last a long time

I finally got a Denso New Starter from TSI Automotive and when my O Reileys starter goes bad I will install it 200$.

However I believe the junk starters that Autozone and O Reileys sell might perform better if a Hot start relay is installed. we think maybe the selinoid is going out but really the voltage is just not pushing the selinoid and we pull the starters prematurely when really the key switch is just getting old and were loosing like 1 volt thus making the selinoid click thinking its bad.

Edited by banzai510(hainz)
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