ka24de info

[Rat-a-tat-Dat]

If there are any to be obtained is it worth the effort to rebuild them for an upgrade to the L20B or should I be looking at the VG's or a better alternative? With that, what is a better choice in todays market of upgrades?

[datzenmike]

Myself I would get a truck KA because the intake only needs a flat aluminum adapter plate to mount a down draft carb on and an L20B distributor. This would save you putting all the EFI wiring and high pressure fuel pump in. Simple as Gump.

 

I would love to try a VG but you would need a 280sx 6 cylinder distributor. They had them in Saudi Arabia but $600 and they are points I think. It would need machining and or shortening to fit a VG but other than that a small 4bbl on home made intake OR two cross ram banks of R-1 carbs with one removed on each side. 

[grannyknot]

So I got the cylinder head back from the machine shop, they managed to save all the valves when re doing the seats and guides but now 13 of the 16 valve shims need replacing and from a quick look around the net they seem very hard to come by.

Anyone know where I can buy a selection new or used shims for a KA24DE?

I'm looking for,

1  2.00mm

3  2.04mm

1  2.06mm

2  2.08mm

2  2.10mm

4  2.12mm

[datzenmike]

Nissan dealer....

 

2.00mm 13229-53F02

2.04mm 13229-53F04

2.06mm 13229-53F05

2.08mm 13229-53F06

2.10mm 13229-53F07

2.12mm 13229-53F08

 

$10 each I think this is in CDN

[grannyknot]

Thanks Mike,  it seems only 13229-53F07 is still available, the rest of the shims are discontinued. 

So I guess my options are to grind/sand the bottom of those 13 shims down with say 400 grit paper on top of my granite flat or maybe take those valves back into the machine shop and have them skim the difference off the top of each valve, the amount needing to be removed is anywhere from .17mm - .04mm.  I'll talk to the machinist first as that seems to be the easiest unless anyone has any other ideas, I'm open to any options.

[grannyknot]

I did find these guys in Australia, https://www.ebay.com/itm/31mm-Valve-Tappet-Adjustment-Shims-For-TB48-Patrol-KA24-Navara-Pintara-Shim/163988335305?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=463605532766&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

Obviously not a Nissan product and there are some big jumps in the gradations but if I have to it's much easier to sand off .03mm than .17mm

[SONOFK-E]

On 6/6/2008 at 10:40 AM, compression said:

Here is some more KA-DE info that might be handy to someone doing a swap.

These are things you can remove from the engine and wiring harness and still have the car function perfectly:

-Secondary (post cat) O2 sensor

-Crank angle sensor (located on transmission bell housing -S14 models)

-Intake air temp sensor -usually located in intake tube or air box, This is not used for operating the engine.

-Complete EGR system and associated sensors

-All transmission sensor/switches (except reverse switch, if you want your lights to work)

-All emissions control sensors and actuators

 

Here is the bare minimum for running the engine:

-Throttle position sensor

-Water temp sensor

-Knock sensor

-MAF sensor

-Injectors

-Distributor/coil

-Primary oxygen sensor

-Idle control motor

-fast idle valve

-Fuel pump

 

This has all been verified on my S14 KA swap.

Awsome great info much appreciated any recommendation for new parts prior to swap and I'm going with an aftermarket 14 fuse wiring harness for the swap would I be able to use any fuses to help with the swap to make it easier to hook up

[fstclyz]

On 12/9/2019 at 9:09 PM, demo243 said:

bit of hammering to get it to clear the steering box, and then you basically need to cut immediatly after the 2-1 junction and go custom from there.... essentially did NOT fit in my opinion... and my fab skills are/were not enough to make it work.

I ended up running the Megan Racing Shorty header. It supposedly gives up a little power and makes the engine feel kinda flat.. idk the car feels pretty good to me.
https://shop.redline360.com/products/megan-racing-headers-nissan-240sx-ka24-s14-95-98-mr-ssh-ns14ka?variant=18174331125873&currency=USD&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_rfvBRCPARIsANlV66OFcB7GWlsD0JKsV3HzuuZcrC3O3dhzh-IaGxG7RpFrnMEvQcH8wooaAgrgEALw_wcB

They used to make a lower portion as well, but seems like they may have discontinued

 

Hi guys.  I'm new to the Datsun community and forum.  Bought a nice 510 with a KA24DE and sorting it out a little.  I think my header is a ISIS type and yes, one of the 2 in 1 pipes is severely crushed in to fit around the steering box.  I think I'm going the NA route with this motor so I'll need a better header solution as well.  Rebello recently said the same about the Megan (Jackson) header on his hop'd up KA's, "Kinda flat and not great for higher hp applications". 

 

Is there a separate thread just for NA KA's in 510's?  If not, I'll create one as I think there's a few of us now....    

 

[grannyknot]

5 hours ago, fstclyz said:

Is there a separate thread just for NA KA's in 510's?  If not, I'll create one as I think there's a few of us now....    

Have you read through the previous 5 pages, there's lots of good NA info.

[DatsSully]

Might be a dumb question, but I can't find any answers/examples(because the answer is probably no).

 

Will the frontier TBI setup fit under the hood of a 510/610/710?

 

Around my area, either I can get a 100% blown up s13 KA or a running one from a 2wd truck w/ ECU. For the sake of less downtime I was wondering if I could skip a 240sx intake/ecu for awhile. 

[grannyknot]

Just some info that might be helpful to someone in the future, Kruked over on the Zilvia forum circled the component on an S13 ECU that confirms it came from a manual stick shift car, if it doesn't have the CJ25 then it came from an auto car.

 

[datzenmike]

Wasn't the difference the rev limiter? The Auto ECU was preferred as it didn't have this feature because it's always in gear. Manuals can miss shifts.

[grannyknot]

17 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Wasn't the difference the rev limiter?

Not sure, I'm having a problem with the idle hanging high for a few seconds before dropping back down to normal, I read in a thread from the archives on the Zilvia forum that the auto ECU would cause that so I set about trying to find out what type my ECU was, it's a manual.

A bunch of extra searching turned up guys with both types of ECUs having the hanging idle problem, so it doesn't seem to have anything to do with whether the ECU is auto or manual and must lie somewhere else.  I've ordered a new Coolant Temp Sensor because I read somewhere the CTS might effect the idle.