Rat-a-tat-Dat 159 Posted April 12, 2020 Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 If there are any to be obtained is it worth the effort to rebuild them for an upgrade to the L20B or should I be looking at the VG's or a better alternative? With that, what is a better choice in todays market of upgrades? Quote Link to post
datzenmike 38,352 Posted April 12, 2020 Report Share Posted April 12, 2020 Myself I would get a truck KA because the intake only needs a flat aluminum adapter plate to mount a down draft carb on and an L20B distributor. This would save you putting all the EFI wiring and high pressure fuel pump in. Simple as Gump. I would love to try a VG but you would need a 280sx 6 cylinder distributor. They had them in Saudi Arabia but $600 and they are points I think. It would need machining and or shortening to fit a VG but other than that a small 4bbl on home made intake OR two cross ram banks of R-1 carbs with one removed on each side. Quote Link to post
grannyknot 159 Posted April 25, 2020 Report Share Posted April 25, 2020 So I got the cylinder head back from the machine shop, they managed to save all the valves when re doing the seats and guides but now 13 of the 16 valve shims need replacing and from a quick look around the net they seem very hard to come by. Anyone know where I can buy a selection new or used shims for a KA24DE? I'm looking for, 1 2.00mm 3 2.04mm 1 2.06mm 2 2.08mm 2 2.10mm 4 2.12mm Quote Link to post
datzenmike 38,352 Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Nissan dealer.... 2.00mm 13229-53F02 2.04mm 13229-53F04 2.06mm 13229-53F05 2.08mm 13229-53F06 2.10mm 13229-53F07 2.12mm 13229-53F08 $10 each I think this is in CDN 1 Quote Link to post
grannyknot 159 Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 Thanks Mike, it seems only 13229-53F07 is still available, the rest of the shims are discontinued. So I guess my options are to grind/sand the bottom of those 13 shims down with say 400 grit paper on top of my granite flat or maybe take those valves back into the machine shop and have them skim the difference off the top of each valve, the amount needing to be removed is anywhere from .17mm - .04mm. I'll talk to the machinist first as that seems to be the easiest unless anyone has any other ideas, I'm open to any options. Quote Link to post
grannyknot 159 Posted April 26, 2020 Report Share Posted April 26, 2020 I did find these guys in Australia, https://www.ebay.com/itm/31mm-Valve-Tappet-Adjustment-Shims-For-TB48-Patrol-KA24-Navara-Pintara-Shim/163988335305?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=463605532766&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 Obviously not a Nissan product and there are some big jumps in the gradations but if I have to it's much easier to sand off .03mm than .17mm Quote Link to post
SONOFK-E 13 Posted July 18, 2020 Report Share Posted July 18, 2020 On 6/6/2008 at 10:40 AM, compression said: Here is some more KA-DE info that might be handy to someone doing a swap. These are things you can remove from the engine and wiring harness and still have the car function perfectly: -Secondary (post cat) O2 sensor -Crank angle sensor (located on transmission bell housing -S14 models) -Intake air temp sensor -usually located in intake tube or air box, This is not used for operating the engine. -Complete EGR system and associated sensors -All transmission sensor/switches (except reverse switch, if you want your lights to work) -All emissions control sensors and actuators Here is the bare minimum for running the engine: -Throttle position sensor -Water temp sensor -Knock sensor -MAF sensor -Injectors -Distributor/coil -Primary oxygen sensor -Idle control motor -fast idle valve -Fuel pump This has all been verified on my S14 KA swap. Awsome great info much appreciated any recommendation for new parts prior to swap and I'm going with an aftermarket 14 fuse wiring harness for the swap would I be able to use any fuses to help with the swap to make it easier to hook up 1 Quote Link to post
fstclyz 0 Posted September 25, 2020 Report Share Posted September 25, 2020 On 12/9/2019 at 9:09 PM, demo243 said: bit of hammering to get it to clear the steering box, and then you basically need to cut immediatly after the 2-1 junction and go custom from there.... essentially did NOT fit in my opinion... and my fab skills are/were not enough to make it work. I ended up running the Megan Racing Shorty header. It supposedly gives up a little power and makes the engine feel kinda flat.. idk the car feels pretty good to me.https://shop.redline360.com/products/megan-racing-headers-nissan-240sx-ka24-s14-95-98-mr-ssh-ns14ka?variant=18174331125873¤cy=USD&gclid=Cj0KCQiA_rfvBRCPARIsANlV66OFcB7GWlsD0JKsV3HzuuZcrC3O3dhzh-IaGxG7RpFrnMEvQcH8wooaAgrgEALw_wcB They used to make a lower portion as well, but seems like they may have discontinued Hi guys. I'm new to the Datsun community and forum. Bought a nice 510 with a KA24DE and sorting it out a little. I think my header is a ISIS type and yes, one of the 2 in 1 pipes is severely crushed in to fit around the steering box. I think I'm going the NA route with this motor so I'll need a better header solution as well. Rebello recently said the same about the Megan (Jackson) header on his hop'd up KA's, "Kinda flat and not great for higher hp applications". Is there a separate thread just for NA KA's in 510's? If not, I'll create one as I think there's a few of us now.... Quote Link to post
grannyknot 159 Posted September 25, 2020 Report Share Posted September 25, 2020 5 hours ago, fstclyz said: Is there a separate thread just for NA KA's in 510's? If not, I'll create one as I think there's a few of us now.... Have you read through the previous 5 pages, there's lots of good NA info. Quote Link to post
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