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79 210 starting and misfire issues


sunny310

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Trying to get my 210 to run but I’m having a hard time. It actually started and idled for about 5 minutes n then it died. It sounded like it’s not running on all 4 cylinders. I put in new plugs wires cap n rotor. Helped a lil bit but still having trouble. Can anyone give their input? Here’s 2 videos I posted on YouTube. 

 

 

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So I didn't get to work on the car today. I'm going to try checking compression, vacuum lines and make sure the timing chain didn't jump a tooth. I noticed the carb was back firing too when I tried to start it. Backfired to while it was running. I just hope it's nothing major

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Is this thing timmed?

 

If you think its not running on a cylinder pull a plug wire while its running. If get worse when plug pluged you know that wire, plug works as motor will run worse.

 

that a cool 210.

Im not a A motor guy so I can say how to adjust valves or anything.

 

if you pour a little gas in the carb and the motor fires of for a few seconds you can say the timming and valves are OK then look at the carb or fuel delivery

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The EGR mixes inert exhaust gasses with the intake air and gas. Inert in this case means no oxygen so what happens is, the exhaust gasses just simply take up space and do nothing. EGR is only working above idle and not at full throttle. Now. If the exhaust tube that pipes exhaust gasses to the EGR valve should have a lea, then outside air WITH oxygen could get in and lean out the mixture. EGR valve can also become jammed with exhaust deposits and not close properly at idle.  A non closed EGR valve is like any hole in the intake and will cause hard, or no starts.

 

You can unbolt the EGR and wire brush away any deposits and make sure it is closed tight and sealed.

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Another thing....none of my lights and accessories work on the car. I need to replace my fusible link wire. Where do I get one of those?

Edited by sunny310
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So turns out the choke was stuck open so I got that sorted and the car starts and idles much better but it still misfires. I pulled #1 and 4 plug wires and it died...pulled#2 and 3 plugs and nothing happened. The carb works fine...i replaced all the plugs n stuff so everything should be all good. Gotta figure out why its misfiring. 

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2 and 3 are the two most likely to be switched plug wires. This is what happens if you were to think the rotor turns clockwise. It doesn't, it turns counter clockwise. So check your firing order 1,3,4,2 counter clockwise.

 

Set the valve lash. A tight intake valve will not always seal in the combustion process and it can light off the gas/air mix in the intake.

 

 

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So turns out the wires are not switched. Car still runs the same but it starts and idles just fine although from a cold start it idles pretty high. I'm thinking maybe the head gasket is blown between cylinders 2 and 3. Need to get a compression test done. How hard is it to get all that smog stuff off the engine if I had to replace the head gasket? Its a bit puzzling to me cuz my caribbean spec b310 didnt have all this crap on it

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So I did a compression test. 165 on #1 and 170 on #4. 2&3 were 30 and 0 respectively. So decided to take the rocker cover off and two of the pushrods were dislodged from under the rocker arms on the same cylinders...intake rod on #2 and exhaust on #3. The rockers arms were kinda loose too. But is that enough to lose compression or could there be something else?

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 Yes. and maybe,  but as you have found two push rods off on the two lowest cylinders I think it safe to say this is the problem. So again, for third time, set the valve lash on all. Drive it around for a while and then re-test the compression

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How long did this car sit?

Did you put new gas in it, the gas sold the last several years has a self life of 6 months at best, the gas in the line between the tank and carb stays good, but after that old fuel in the tank gets to the carb all sorts of mysterious shit can happen, I had my L head rocker arms pop off the lash pads and eventually completely come off the valve springs themselves and do nothing, I believe the valve was sticking open from the old gas, this happened a few times.

I also had weird issues with the idle, it would not idle worth a shit at all until I warmed it up and then shut it down, then I walked away for half an hour, then I came back started it and it idled great, I repeated this more than one time, new gas fixed the issues.

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The car sat since 2009...car does have a little bit of old gas in it but I added fresh gas which probably wasn’t a smart idea. I did start running it out of a gas can tho. I’m starting to think cranking it over n over with that bad gas n all lead to this happening. The guy who I bought the car from did send me a video of the car running n it ran well. Don’t know what happened between that time n when it got here. I’m kinda trying to avoid pulling the head not because it’s hard but all the smog stuff is kinda intimidating. This is my first US spec B310... both my Caribbean spec RHD B310s didn’t have all that crap on it. But I will if I really need to. Also plan on flushing da fuel tank.

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Bad gas, what ever that is, won't bend or throw a push rod.

 

Cylinder 2 and 3.... remove the push rods and take a look at the tops of the valve springs. Are they all the same height??? Is one noticeably lower than the others?

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11 hours ago, datzenmike said:

I'm looking for an anomaly, something not normal. Well, some good reason for pulling the head.

 

When a car is left for 7 years and not used there is usually some reason. 

Yeah that’s what I’m thinking also. I bought some push rods on eBay. Waiting for them to get here. Want to put them in n see what happens. 

Today after work I found out it has bad front wheel bearings...they were pretty shot. Ordered some new ones. That’s pretty much all I did with it today. Will drain the tank this weekend

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