Finally Got me a 79 210 B310!!!

[sunny310]

Took delivery of my 79 210 today from California. Feels like I’ve been waiting for ages for her to show up. It’s a 79 Cali spec 4 door with an A14 and auto with 71k miles on it. Has some issues that I have to figure out tho. I put a battery in it n some gas n it wants to start but it won’t. I bought plugs wires n stuff that I have to install. Also only my headlights work. My park lights, brake lights, turn signals/hazards, wipers, fuel gauge, dash lights all don’t work. Checked all the fuses n they seem to be good. I’ll have to look at it some more but it’s puzzling. Hopefully one of you guys can chime in. 

 

Edited October 9, 2018 by sunny310

[afracer]

Check fusible links

[Crashtd420]

Also if you dont have a multi meter, get one..  a multimeter will tell you if you actually have power flowing through the fuse....  And it will help checking the fusible links too...

Even the simple bulb test light will quickly tell you if power is present,  but a multimeter will tell you if you have the correct voltage across circuits. even though the fuse looks good it might not be making contact....

Common problem is corrosion on the terminals and plugs.. sometimes unplugging and reseating connections helps, 

[tr8er]

And remember, this is a switched ground (-) configuration, so fuses can have voltage, but if the circuit is not closed (path to battery negative), you won't have power.  Chase your grounds and ensure connection.  

[sunny310]

Will get a multimeter n start checking around the car. Everything except the hazards/signals turn on only when the car is running and the tail/brake lamps stay on. So something is definitely wrong. One connector on the fusible link is melted. Was told it’s from battery acid. It still work cuz the car starts

[datzenmike]

There's more than one fusible link I'm sure. It melted looking then it's most likely burned out (not battery acid) Replace it.

[sunny310]

Figured out why the brake lamps were staying on. Just had to adjust the switch at the brake pedal. So that problem is solved. Tried switching out the flasher for the hazard/turn signal but still doesn’t work. Drove it to work this morning. Im pretty stoked. Still have a lot of stuff to do including replace the valve cover gasket, replace all tires, get the electrics sorted, change all fluids hoses n belts etc...got a 240z steering wheel for it as well??

Edited October 27, 2018 by sunny310

[datzenmike]

Try switching the hazard switch on and off a dozen times to polish the contacts.

Now turn the turn signal on (with the ignition on) and move the hazard switch position from on to off slowly. Does the turn signal begin flashing?

[sunny310]

17 hours ago, datzenmike said:

Try switching the hazard switch on and off a dozen times to polish the contacts.

Now turn the turn signal on (with the ignition on) and move the hazard switch position from on to off slowly. Does the turn signal begin flashing?

Ok I tried it a couple times and the hazards came on. But the turn signals didn’t work tho. Continued to play with the hazard switch n the amp light started flashing too. Sometimes when I turn on the hazard switch one side will work n then the other side will work after...then both side will flash again. I wonder if the contacts need to be cleaned? Car still has to be running for any of em to work 

[datzenmike]

Hazards should work without the ignition on. Turn signals have to have the ignition on.

 

Key on. Try working the turn signal L&R to clean the contacts.

[sunny310]

43 minutes ago, datzenmike said:

Hazards should work without the ignition on. Turn signals have to have the ignition on.

 

Key on. Try working the turn signal L&R to clean the contacts.

I’ll mess with it again tomorrow. Again nothing works with the car not running which is probably the fusible link that i haven’t fixed yet...and speaking of that again.... I was told the fusible link itself is good...it’s just the connector the links the wires from the battery terminal is melted. Maybe I can cut those off n get some spade connectors in fix it. I’m not confident at all with wiring. That’s why I’m stalling to fix it but I know I have to. 

BTW I got some jdm front side markers/indicators. I’m assuming they’re wired different. How do I get em to work?

[sunny310]

 

Here are pics of the car I took today. Gave her a wash n polish. The door molding got damaged so we took it off to try to fix it. Got the 240z steering wheel in there. I love that thing!! Cannot wait to get some new wheels n tires for her and drop the ride height a bit

[sunny310]

On 10/26/2018 at 11:28 PM, datzenmike said:

Try switching the hazard switch on and off a dozen times to polish the contacts.

Now turn the turn signal on (with the ignition on) and move the hazard switch position from on to off slowly. Does the turn signal begin flashing?

Turn signals n hazards now all work. Tried the same technique with the dome light n it worked too????

[datzenmike]

The contact area can build up a patina just like an old copper penny. (a real copper penny not the stuff they use now) The 4 way does not get used very often and the 4 way switch (in the off position) has to allow the turn signal through it. In the on position the turn signals are disconnected. 

 

I find my horn will stop working for the same reason. Tapping the horn repeatedly always fixes it.

[sunny310]

I think the car needs to be driven too. They actually started working while I was driving it. Also notice the alternator light stays on sometimes. Thinking I might have to check that too. Changed the oil today. Still waiting on the valve cover gasket go show up cuz it’s leaking pretty bad. 

[datzenmike]

Push rod engines should use an oil with ZDDP levels appropriate to when this engine was new. That was 40 years ago. With the advent of roller cams and newer catalytic converters that are harmed by the zinc the level has been dropping every year as they phase it out. I would suggest a 10w30 Shell Rotella T4 oil. Diesel oils are still maintaining the flat tappet zinc levels. 

[sunny310]

I actually used 5w30 cuz up here in the Dakotas we get really harsh winters. Will make it easier to start when it’s freezing out

[datzenmike]

5w30 shouldn't be used above 15 degrees, it's just too thin when it gets warmed up. Avoid hard highway driving if you do. Do you have a block heater? I had a new B210 back in '76 and 10w30 would let it turn 2 times and that was it. A guy suggested 10w which helped. I got a block heater and an electric battery warmer blanket. Plugged them both in at work and at home set a timer for 4 in the morning, When I started it up the temp gauge was already just barely reading.  

[sunny310]

In the dead of winter it barely gets above 20F up here. Last winter we got as low as -45F. Not taking it on the highway yet. Just using it around town for now. Will change out to 10w30 after a bit. Once it starts to snow i probably won’t be driving it that much since I live on a hill n it probably won’t make it up to my house(my E39 Bmw and Chevy c10 has the same issue). I do have one of those magnetic block heaters. Have to find it 

[bing_kee66]

looks really nice, 4 doors have always been my favorite sunnys.  have you looked under the carpet yet?

[sunny310]

No haven’t looked under the carpet yet but I’m confident it’s fine since the whole car has very little rust. Finally changed my valve cover gasket last night so no more oil leaks. Also fixed the side molding n put it back on the car. Drove it to work today

Edited November 2, 2018 by sunny310

[sunny310]

 

Update...well I started buying up stuff for my 210. Got me some JDM fender mirrors, bumpers, bumper lights with amber lens, grille and front side marker lights(some of em are still en route). Also bought a 2 inch cherry bomb turbo muffler, a set of 14 inch hurricanes wheels(still gotta get tires n lug nuts) and my buddy Enrico hooked me up with a manual pedal box. Cant wait to start installing all these parts. Will be gathering more parts for my manual swap. Hopefully I can find me a 5 speed box or I'll have to settle for a 4 speed..Here are pics of some of the parts i bought

Edited January 20, 2019 by sunny310

[f1ndM3aTaco]

On 1/19/2019 at 10:04 PM, sunny310 said:

 

Update...well I started buying up stuff for my 210. Got me some JDM fender mirrors, bumpers, bumper lights with amber lens, grille and front side marker lights(some of em are still en route). Also bought a 2 inch cherry bomb turbo muffler, a set of 14 inch hurricanes wheels(still gotta get tires n lug nuts) and my buddy Enrico hooked me up with a manual pedal box. Cant wait to start installing all these parts. Will be gathering more parts for my manual swap. Hopefully I can find me a 5 speed box or I'll have to settle for a 4 speed..Here are pics of some of the parts i bought

Okay how and where did you get those bumpers!?

[sunny310]

3 hours ago, f1ndM3aTaco said:

Okay how and where did you get those bumpers!?

Got them from some guys on FB. Check out Datsun Club UK...there's always ppl selling datsun parts on there. The guy who I got my rear bumper from has 2 left and is from Malaysia. The front one I got off a guy in Portugal. You can also check Datsun Parts and Cars for sale UK 

[afracer]

Excellent part collecting sir!  In cold climates like that I'd go with a 0w-30 or even 0w-20 oil for the winter and step up the weights in the summer to something that gives you adequate hot oil pressures (10psi per 1000 rpm is a good guideline). Your goal should be to run the thinnest weight oil that gets you the oil pressure you should have. This approach balances volume vs pressure the best, and with modern oils they're all pretty damn good compared to what was there in the 70s. Of course you do desire a little bit higher zddp levels for these engines, ideally more than 700 ppm but anything over like 1200 isn't necessary and counteracts itself with other additives. You can Google Bob is the oil guy's blog to get 3rd party oil testing results, but it's a LOT of reading!