Were have all the.....

[G-Duax]

Probably before many members births, but people like Mike maybe will remember this...

Where have all the flowers gone?

 

Since I'm in the middle of curing several problems, I will come back later to explain how this relates to the FS5W71b....

[G-Duax]

So, where did all the flowers go ?

Replace 'flowers' with 'broken bits of plastic shifter bushings'.

 

If you replace yours, really dig around in the shifter casting to make sure you get all of the chunks out.

 

I just picked up a 280Z trans because the one in my 620 took a dump.

Looked in pretty good condition, so we threw it in last weekend.

Drove it around the neighborhood a little, all was good.

Took off for work Monday, got out on the freeway, and no 5th.

Crapola !

Figured the nut had backed off the main shaft, and it was going to have to come out.

I had today off, so out came the trans, and off came the tail housing.

Nut was in place (but not tight, off course), so that wasn't the problem.

 

Took a look at the tail housing, and there was a bunch of crushed plastic packed into the shifter casting, on both ends of the shaft head that the shift lever sticks into, blocking full travel of the shaft.

 

After about a half hour with a dental pick, vacuum, and solvent managed to un-wedge all the bits.

I think the guy figured he was selling me a bad trans, probably why I got it for $100.

And it would have went bad if I hadn't gone in, and found that nut loose.

It went in another 1/4 turn before reaching the 125 ft/lb point.

 

I did take the nut all the way off the threads, clean the everything, applied a good helping of Loctite, and re-staked.

All is back together now except the header, and intake manifold.

 

Moral of the story is if you have those plastic shifter bushings come apart, ask yourself 'Where did all the flowers go?'

 

Oh, and last week end my Quartermaster coaxial throw-out went in.

Love that !

No more external slave, arm, or springs to deal with !

 

 

By the way, those nuts for the main shaft are impossible to find.

I'm thinking about buying some hex stock, and making a few, maybe with a set screw to help them from loosening, maybe making them thinner, and double nutting.

Edited October 4, 2018 by G-Duax

[datzenmike]

I recently took my one year only mid ratio zx trans out and the main shaft nut was staked but wobbly. I bent out the dimple and tightened it at least 1/4 turn and re staked it.

 

This isn't it but it has the same nut with the thin skirt around the end. The mainshaft has a longitudinal groove in the threads and I just used a chisel to dimple it into this.

 

Actually the counter shaft just above it has one that you can see.

 

 

[G-Duax]

I've seen pictures of a guy in Japan, that replaces that thick washer or thrust washer under the 5th gear, with a thrust bearing.

Looks like the one under your speedo gear.

I may have to try that when I get around to rebuilding the one that was in the truck.

(it did have the nut back off, and cause problems)

 

Is your nut right hand, or left hand ?

[datzenmike]

I believe I turned in the normal direction to tighten it. I had to find something to pry the dented in part with and then turned it. I leaned on it pretty hard.

[bottomwatcher]

Excuse my ignorance, but what are the advantages to the quartermaster besides eliminating the arm and spring. I remember dealing with an internal slave on a jeep, what a pain in the ass. Nissan external can be swapped for new and bled in less than 1/2 an hour. Not dissing your slave but have never seen anything like that.

[hosestop@msn.com]

I think for Ford rangers have same set up,  I have a hose fitting with a bleeder near throw out for that application .

[G-Duax]

Well, because of their larger piston area, it turned my OS Giken twin plate from an on-off switch, back to feeling like a stock clutch.

And yes, I'm running an external bleeder.

Funny thing is, when looking into how to hook up the hydraulics to the Datsun hard line, I happen to have spare Earls SS brake lines for my Cressida, that was the exact length, and had the exact ends to match up to the 620 stock hard line, to the #4 US threaded adaptor in the throw-out.