What would be the ideal alternator if mounting wasn’t an issue

[G8KeaPoR]

So I have a denso 105 amp alternator from I think it was an Altima that I picked up after reading one of datzenmikes posts on the realm I think it was (thanks for that by the way). Anyway I noticed a lot of people wanting to use other better alternators but you guys seem to have to go to great lengths of modification to mount them so I was thinking of milling out an aluminum alternator bracket that bolts up to the l series engine.  The question is what alternator would you guys ideally like to use?  If I get a few suggestions maybe we can put up a poll and the winner will be what I design a mounting bracket for.  Also I am curious if there is any interest in a kit for converting from the old style v belts to a more modern 5 or 6 ribbed serpentine belt to drive everything on one belt.  Any input would be appreciated. Of course this could apply to anything L series but since I have a 510 and I would be testing there I placed this in this forum. 

[datzenmike]

I would like to try a 145 amp alternator from a Quest. There are also Vg30 engines used in the Ford Villager that have a 120 amp alternator.

 

 

http://nissannut.com/projects/alt_upgrade/

 

The thing is that you really don't need that much alternator power, I don't. (I have a welder) The other is that the V belt on my L20B will let out a squawk if the battery is low form sitting and the charge rate is high. It's harder for the engine to turn against the resistance of the alternator and the belt slips just till it gets up to speed. I don't think there is room for a serpentine belt pulley so close to the lower rad hose and even if I did change them (I wouldn't) what happens if your water pump fails? You would have to throw that pulley away with it.

[G8KeaPoR]

True outside on drilling and tapping the flange for the water pump that’s probably true. Still with my going modern on the lights and a few other goodies like an under dash’s ac that uses a real compressor so with the bi xeonon hids etch I’d like to have the extra juice.  I need least the 100 amp from the Altima.  Mind you I’m just toying with ides here and not all ideas end up being great ones either.  Another Addition I’m working with is a stand alone abs from an older Miata with the mini booster it comes with.  Thighs fit for sure but looks like ican get it to work by angling the rear velocity stack on the Webber a few degrees with using just a screen on it.  Final fit has yet to be determined of course but the parts cost less than 200 at the pick a part

 

 

 

[datzenmike]

 

HIDs use at most the same or less than the stock or halogen lamps. I agree that today 100 amp is nice to have on an older Datsun. The output is higher at idle and the lights don't dim and brighten when the turn signal is on. The heater doesn't slow down either. I can't see needing 145 ?

 

BTW the output cable for the Altima alternator was thicker than the positive cable to my starter!!!!

[G8KeaPoR]

Mike so i took measurements and wit a minor adjustment making a 5 rib pulley for the water pump and a crank pulley is no big deal on the mill. BUT it will require a different tensioner. So it got me looking since outside of finding a denso remanned alternator for the Altima which ate becoming far and few between.  So I might look into doing it with a newer 120 amp unit that’s sourcable new from  demos or any company that doesn’t decide to trash their brand having it priced together in China. It would of course requre a tensioner crank and water pum pulley but to someone adding ac it sure makes finding a 134a or newer compressor that fits an l series a whole lot easier and cheaper than paying 1000’ to get your r12 system filled. And hey even if it’s a one off I’ve been having fun and that’s the point lol

[datzenmike]

From Nissan Nuts:

 

 

93-98 - V40 = Quest and Mercury Villager - 110 amp
99-03 - V41 = Quest and Mercury Villager  - 120 amp 

 

The Villager was a collaboration with Ford using the Nissan VG engines.

 

 

 

93-98 - v40 = VG30E  = 1 sliding door made in TN = Mitsubishi 110 amp 
99-03 - v41 = VG33E = 2 sliding doors made in TN = Mitsubishi 125 amp
04-10 - v42 = VQ35DE = 2 sliding doors made in Canton MS = Valeo 130 is actually a 145 amp

 

[thisismatt]

Standalone abs? Doesn't it still need wheel hub sensors?

[G8KeaPoR]

On 10/21/2019 at 9:42 AM, thisismatt said:

Standalone abs? Doesn't it still need wheel hub sensors?

I have S14 ABS knuckles with hubs that I will be using and given I have a VMC type CNC mill in my garage for my biz I can make any needed mods or just new parts in my off time.