1974 610 Wagon Front Shocks Source

[Humboldt]

I want to replace the front shocks on my 1974 610 wagon. Can anyone refer me to a source? I don't have the money or inclination for coilovers (don't want the car any lower). All I can find at Summit Rock auto etc., is Rear shocks. And Ranch which is listed as front and rear, but raises height? Thank you!

Edited October 2, 2018 by Humboldt
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[datzenmike]

Datsuns don't really have shocks as such. The shock damping is combined with the strut and the coil spring and called a Macpherson strut. The original 'shocks are called dampers and are submerged in an oil bath inside the strut tube. You can dismantle drain an remove the stock damper and replace with a self contained insert for another vehicle. 

 

 

I think we talked about this before. If you have to go to all this work dismantling and don't want to spend much why not simply refill with thicker viscosity motorcycle fork oil? $15 for a liter of 20W and there's enough for 3 struts. It firms them up and keeps the compression and rebound that was engineered for the 610. Who knows what the bought inserts are set at? They will be a 'one size fits all'. Ives done this with 20W or my goon and ATF for my sedan. ATF is cheap but there is no rated viscosity. It's somewhere between 6 and 12W I think. Either way both were much thicker than the watery thin hydraulic oil that was in them. 

[Humboldt]

I remember reading about this, but it seems there was some grinding or welding that I'm thinking was beyond my skill/shop level. I was thinking I could get the whole MacPherson assemblies off and take it to my neighbor who has a spring compressor and drop in some off-the-shelf dampers. Maybe I am over worried about the disassembly of the dampers?

 

[datzenmike]

Not at all. If just concerned with the dampers you just unscrew the gland nut and lift it out. There is a small O ring seal at the top of the strut tube replace the oil.

 

 

 

I used a dental pick...

 

 

It looks like this when out.

 

 

Just empty the old hydraulic oil out. It's thin and watery and looks like this...

 

 

Pump the damper up and down to empty it then put damper in strut tube and top up with 20W fork oil. I used BelRay but any hydraulic oil rated at 20w will do. Motorcycle fork oil has anti foam and rust inhibitors in it. Place the gland nut on and extend and compress the damper to expel any air and fill it with oil. Remove the gland nut and top it back up about 1/2" from the top. (you may have to do this several times) Put back together and extend and compress the damper several times. Now hold upside down and repeat. It's awkward and the damper will be stiff but it's needed to be sure the air gets out and the damper is filled. About 1/2" from top. Check and if the level is staying at 1/2" put the rubber O ring in and tighten the gland nut up. Re-assemble the spring and install in car.

 

Now all this assumes that the original oil dampers are still in the car.... they may already have been replaced, so check before buying any oil.

[Humboldt]

Cool, thanks for the play by play breakdown and pix!

[hosestop@msn.com]

280zx struts inserts  with spacers .

[yenpit]

Yes, if you buy a replacement strut (shock) CARTRIDGE for a different application, you pull all those original parts out that Mike showed you, buy an available off the shelf strut cartridge like hosestop suggested (I have never installed a 280ZX cartridge in a 610/710, so don't know for sure it will fit but guess it would!), it needs be the correct diameter cartridge & the correct length cartridge (no spacer) OR a shorter length cartridge & cut a simple steel tube "spacer" to bring it up to the correct height in the strut.  Shouldn't need any welding, but if a spacer is needed, you will need to be able to cut thick steel tube.  On my last 510, I used Toyota MR2 strut cartridges in 280ZX struts, had to make a spacer.  Hope that helps!

 

TJ 

[datzenmike]

Slightly shorter I'm sure. So fill the space under the insert with washers. Might be a good idea to fill the space around the insert with engine oil to help transfer heat to the strut wall.

[Humboldt]

 

I am still trying to fix this. I am looing at KYB Excel GR2 361001, 361002 1nd 361003 On Rock Auto which range from extended length 2.24 stroke similarly vary. These are specified for 240z-280z. Do you have any idea which would fit a 610 wagon> Not sure if it is the same as the 510. I don't want coil overs am 70 and the car is damn low enough! Just want to quit floating all over the highway. I will have someone else put them on cuz 70 and arthritis. I don't want to rebuild existing cuz probably shot. Thanks for input.

[datzenmike]

I doubt something for a 240z - 280z will fit anything else. Get what fits a 610. Failing that change the oil viscosity. It's the same amount of work to just change the oil as to replace with inserts even if someone else does the work.  All you need is any insert that is the same length or shorter so they fit. If slightly shorter just stack washers in the bottom of the strut tube to make up the difference.

 

For the record coilovers don't lower a car. They make adjusting the ride height easier.... you can set where you want. If you don't need adjustability they are an expensive waste of time.

[Humboldt]

I am just worried that replacing the oil would only lead to the same problem--failed shock from oil leaking due to bad seals or pitted rod or something. Does anyone have an old cartridge they have pulled out of a 610 front they could put a tape measure to and get me the dimensions?

 

[Humboldt]

 KYB Excel GR2 361001, 361002 and 361003 0n RockAuto range from extended length 22.24 to 25.94 for 240z - 280z's.

[banzai510(hainz)]

just get a 280zx cartridege(they are short) and use washers and spacers at the bottom till the Gland nut threads down fully. It don't even have to be fully long as you have a majority of threads grab

 

GR2 is just the cheap gas shock. but works but 280zx have better ones if you want.

[Humboldt]

Thanks, Hainz!