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SR20DE which one is the 160hp version?


Tom1200

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So my latest thing I'm looking at is a SR20DE. Does any one know what model was the 160hp version?

 

Here is the background; the class I vintage race my 1200 allows the car to be prepped to 1999 or earlier specs for any recoqnized series. The Australian Improved Production Racing Association allows for SR20DE motors (before anyone suggests it turbo motors go into he next class up so forget the DET option) I also don't want to monkey fornicate around with adapting the VE motors to RWD......regardless of how cool I think the SR16VE 8600 buzz bomb is.

 

Additiinally I've been offered up a SR20DET long block (less turbo); I'm assuming the turbo motor uses different pistons and camshafts but are there other differences between the DE and DET?

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Just buy a full S14 swap off eBay.  They are about 1500 bucks and come complete with ecu and wiring.  That’s what we did in our enduro car.  Building one from the ground up is going to cost some dollars.  

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Unfamilia while the VVL motor is the way to go there are fire wall clearance.

 

Icehouse I'm assuming you used the fuel injection, were there any issues with the wiring? I've seen some guys do motor swaps that they are forever trying to sort the wiring. 

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There is no VVL RWD SR.  S14 and S15 NA SR are exactly the same.  The only way to tell is by the ecu size.  S14 ecu is half size.  The S15 ECU is the standard size. 

 

It if you are talking about the front bump on the valve cover that just advances the intake timing no lift.  It was on both s14 and S15. 

 

The wiring is Easy.   I would never put carbs on anything.  

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2 hours ago, Unfamilia said:

Are you sure? Pretty sure the S15 varietta autech motors are 200hp factory. Knew a couple guys with them. 

 

 

 

Yep.  THe Autech motor just had higher compression 11.5 to 1, a header, better tune and if I remember right cams. O also a red line of 7800.  It was still the same motor.  Just a S14/S15 SR20DE.   That's why so many companies make parts to make the FWD head work on the RWD block.  There was no factory variation of it.  

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One of the points behind potentially doing this is the ability to run pump gas and have parts readily available. If I did have a motor problem I don't want to be bothered with drilling oil passages and refitting various add ons.

 

The A15 parts are available but my motor has a lot of specialty bits. I can't just order up cams and other common race parts as many of the items, like cam shafts, need to be sent out. Additionally the specialty parts can be pricey and I'm cheap, I don't wish to keep $1,000 worth of duplicate parts around just to make the occasional motor change go quicker. 

 

The A15 motor is great but even after refreshing the motor and a couple of minor revisions the motor isn't likely going to be more than 110 at the wheels. Last dyno reading was 99.8 on a mustang dyno. Trying to go beyond this power level cuts the maintenance intervals, full prepped A-series engines need going though after 6-8hrs of run time versus 5 seasons at the level I run them.

 

Anything above 135 at the wheels will be great, the USDM SR20DE should easily do that. 150 at the wheels would go very well. 

 

Iceman not all carbs are created equal, the Keihin Flat Slides are very straight forward and not finicky in the least. I jet my car for the race events which are usually October -  April. Most of the track days I run are in 90-100 degree weather, yes the car runs a bit rich and I'm loosing a few horsepower but at a track day who cares. Once I set the jetting I never changed it for the next 5 years, couple that with the matchbox distributor (set the timing and forget it) and my car runs as well as any fuel injected car. The advantage for me is regardless of how hard I tune the motor I can adjust the car. I have no experience tuning FI cars, I've fixed them but never messed around with tuning them. Not that I plan on scrapping the FI on the SR20.

 

 

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