Crashtd420 Posted December 1, 2019 Report Share Posted December 1, 2019 14 minutes ago, 510revisited said: Well I meant for here.. but I see what you mean. I can just link it here... right before im ready to fire off im gonna wire that dizzy. I think that's where I'm gonna need some of your expertise. I still have your number, and plan to be blowing up your phone soon. I dont think you can directly link a video like pictures.... I know postimage wont do videos, not sure about the others.... youtube was the only was I was able to add a video here.... And anything you need on the distributor just let me know... it really isn't bad..... You may need a remote trigger or a second person to crank the engine over during the initial setup up to get the timing right.... I followed the setup directions but we had to manually advance the distributor some to match the programmed value with the timing light reading.... once set it did follow any changes I made in the app... Something to consider, I'm not sure how your wiring things but to setup the distributor the car needs to be on but not running.... this would keep power on to the coil, I dont think that good ... I would just remember to unplug the coil while you are programming.... I have a seperate power switch for my distributor to be able to turn it on by itself to program.... Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 1, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 1, 2019 41 minutes ago, Crashtd420 said: Something to consider, I'm not sure how your wiring things but to setup the distributor the car needs to be on but not running.... this would keep power on to the coil, I dont think that good ... I would just remember to unplug the coil while you are programming.... I have a seperate power switch for my distributor to be able to turn it on by itself to program.... I'm not sure I follow... isn't the coil being on not a bad thing since it's on anyways once the car is running. On top of that, I have to wire the sniper to the negative side of the coil, and by turning it on and off may not be a good thing. Though it gets turned off when the car isn't on. I may be talking out my ass though.. Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 2, 2019 Report Share Posted December 2, 2019 Maybe I'm wrong I just didn't think you want the coil powered for long periods of time without the car running.... I was under the impression you could burn up the coil.... I might be googling it just so I know now.... Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 2, 2019 Report Share Posted December 2, 2019 Ok so here's what I found... with the points and possibly electronic distributors you could damage the coil if the contacts keep the circuit closed instead of cycling while the engine runs... So it may not be an issue since the 123 ignition is more digital..... Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 6, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 6, 2019 Come up! Just picked up two of these lil babies for WAY too much. Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 So I'm starting to wire things up. I've installed everything including the o2 sensor. I'm starting to wire up my 123 ignition dizzy and have noticed that it does not point to plug 1. It is just barely past number 1 by a small amount, on it's way to the next cylinder. I know only a small handful of people have done this, so I'm not expecting much input. HOWEVER, I am on tdc compression stroke. Checked by finger on top of plug hole. What I'm wondering is if my dizzy drive shaft is out a tooth or so. Here is a pic of my timing mark, and dizzy drive shaft.. Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 (edited) The dist spinal looks correct for TDC. your dist should have the matching dist with the timmimg plate.The timmimg plate will have a bolt underneath the dist which you can get a few degrees in the way you need to move it.Looks like you have a L16 dist mount aa it looks 90deg tang. look on YouTube hainZ Datsun L series part 5 or 6 will show me install multi distributors example L20 uses a a L20 dizzy WITHE THW MATCHING plate that goes with it.Otherwise the position you have it will not work. L16 with L16sss dist or L16dist what is a 123ingition dizzy? Edited December 8, 2019 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 With the locking plate on the 123 ignition your not restricted.... you can rotate the distributor 360 degrees, the base plate is more of a pinch clamp... Once you have the distributor installed and go through the initial setup I would imagine it will look better... Have you done any of that yet? Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 (edited) Make sure it goes on the drive spindle correct with that offset half moon..... Ignore the normal datsun way it may point a different direction once installed... either way just orientate the wires starting there as #1.... Edited December 8, 2019 by Crashtd420 Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 5 hours ago, banzai510(hainz) said: The dist spinal looks correct for TDC. your dist should have the matching dist with the timmimg plate.The timmimg plate will have a bolt underneath the dist which you can get a few degrees in the way you need to move it.Looks like you have a L16 dist mount aa it looks 90deg tang. look on YouTube hainZ Datsun L series part 5 or 6 will show me install multi distributors example L20 uses a a L20 dizzy WITHE THW MATCHING plate that goes with it.Otherwise the position you have it will not work. L16 with L16sss dist or L16dist what is a 123ingition dizzy? A 123 ignition is a bluetooth controlled distributor essentially. You can control timing, vac advance, rev limiter, lock out for anti theft. And a few other things I think. They've been out for about a decade. Crash has one and says it's a ok. Theres lots of youtube vids of them including on a 280z. No bad reviews that I've seen. I thought about it more after I installed and realized, like crash said already, it's fine. I'll know if i can ever find a 12v cranking source Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 (edited) 12volt cranking source? isnt that the black blue wire also known as the hot start wire by the coil and ballast resistor.Could be the black green wire also which it’s really shorted too this ignition is it the same I seen on zcardepot.com?like a crank position sensor? what ?Crash is saying is where your rotor points to that will be your number 1 that your going to assign it.Hopfully it close enough to dial in the rest with the design movement of your set up Edited December 8, 2019 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 6 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said: 12volt cranking source? isnt that the black blue wire also known as the hot start wire by the coil and ballast resistor.Could be the black green wire also which it’s really shorted too this ignition is it the same I seen on zcardepot.com?like a crank position sensor? I'm not sure about that wire. Instructions for my efi say to stay away from the coil, and starter solenoid. Crank angle sensors different. Check out this link.. https://www.google.com/amp/s/123ignitionusa.com/amp/datsun/ Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 (edited) On Datsun with point ignitions you have a black white wire that goes to the ballast resistor then to the +side coil with key On. However in start this black white wire is bypassed by using a black blue wire from the keyswitich to as it says bypass the ballast resistor to give the coil a full 12volts or try to as the starter is loading down the battery.More or less makes it exercise to start as it’s a hotter spark.Then when the key snaps back to On the current gets cut on half not to burn up the points.Also it’s a point coil and not designed to run on a full 12/14volts while running. So I think you are going to have to short the black white wire with black blue. So you have 11v at cranking then snaps back to On still 12volts. So to make it simple for you your sending 12volt to 2 places at the same time. 1 to starter and 1 to the coil bypassing the ballast to the coil. the distributor has that clamp .you dial it in using the led to get your #1 then lock it down. To me it’s a lot of money for a distributor on a L motor Sounds like Crash has one and he knows what’s going on you said the instructions said stay away from the coil.You need a coil to run so I’m not getting it Edited December 8, 2019 by banzai510(hainz) 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 Seems like a lot of confusion.... I think you just want a dedicated power source to the distributor and possibly the efi.... Personally I would use the ignition to trigger a couple relays to power them from a 12 volt battery source..... So why are you searching for a start signal? Something other than starting? Dont know what state your wiring is in... but as banzai is saying you should have a start signal and ignition and the input of the ballast resistor...... And yes hainz.... it's a pricey distributor but the quality and attention to detail is amazing.... I used it because of my sidedraft and high compression.... Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 Its an very well done piece, that's for sure. I bought it cause I was having problems with my dizzy. I wanted to start new and fresh. A lil pricey, but hey, you only live once. So hainz, I'll break it down as simple as possible. This is for everyone else. The computer in the efi unit needs 12v at the on position, and 12v during cranking, in order for it to work. The instructions say to not use a 12v cranking source from the starter solenoid, or the coil. I will still use a coil for the dizzy. I'm just instructed to NOT use the coil/solenoid as a source.. apparently these efi systems are sensitive to RFI noise. Here is a screenshot of the instructions.. Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 2 hours ago, Crashtd420 said: Personally I would use the ignition to trigger a couple relays to power them from a 12 volt battery source..... This or something similar. But I'm not good at wiring. So I have no idea how..... I'd need a diagram, or someone to walk me through it. I can build bridges, bit I cant wire cars!!! 🤣 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 Relays are basically an electric switch... 85 and 86 are your triggers.... Doesnt matter which is which... One side is ground the other would be power from your ignition..... 30 goes to the battery Then 87 goes to the item you want to power... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 (edited) Ok the instruction said not to use use a starter signal via a key switch I assume.but a Start trigger so it’s kinda like a Oxymoron. I don’t get the having a relay as your putting 12volts via the key switch or a relay is still 12volts.So I’m the specs you could have a high resistive key switch it should still work as the spec says if can work down to 4 volts Best to get Crash to make a drawing for you update i read the instruction on this what you have highlighted.To me it’s the black white On wire.And the black blue wire/blackgreen Start wire. short them together.I didn’t see instructions adding a relay.Adding a relay now you have to make a red wire and black wire one to the battery and one to ground to bolt too. Which will add ugly wiring under the hood unless you make a terminal block hidden and maybe hooked up to the starter +lug so it’s hidden.So it not like a kids car with 15 red wires hooked up to the positive battery lug looking like shit Crash there are some relays that have a Diode across the coil 85/86 I think you put the pos side of the diode to the ground side . the magnetic field collapses it goes to ground. Edited December 8, 2019 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 Find black white Key ON blackblue/blackgreen Key Start now fo to step 9 in instructions Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 I responded in the other thread too... I really think this is being over thought.... As far as the relay, the ones with the diodes help prevent a back feeds or something.. I usually add the diode myself where I need it.... Really at this point I'm getting confused... The relay suggestion was to allow multiple items being powered that need the same trigger.... For instance Efi unit Distributor And coil... By using the ignition lead to the coil as a trigger for the relays that will power the efi and distributor.... it just divides the load... Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 At least you can just sit back with a cup of coffee and watch it... I'm pulling my damn hair out. As of this moment RIGHT NOW I've got fuel to the sniper, I've got a 12v while on NO 12V WHILE CRANKING wire. On the Facebook holley tech site I've been suggested to add a 4 pin relay. I'm going to attempt to wire in a 4 pin ONLY to make a 12v crank signal. Not for the distributor. Or the coil. ONLY FOR THE HOLLEY SNIPER ECU Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 What wire from the Holley are you trying to power with this 12 volt crank? I'm still confused of this 12 volt crank signal.... Quote Link to comment
banzai510(hainz) Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 (edited) Have you looked for the hot start wire yet?!!!? find it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!black blu/black green page 181 in Haynes manual and other Datsun 510 manuals Edited December 8, 2019 by banzai510(hainz) Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted December 8, 2019 Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 Are you talking about the violet wire? Quote Link to comment
510revisited Posted December 8, 2019 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2019 Ok. There are 4 wires for the sniper to run. Red battery positive. Black battery negative. Yellow negative coil for rpm signal. Blue fuel pump positive. Pink signal wire... the pink wire needs 12v at on and crank. I just wired a relay like the pic crash sent. Still nothing Quote Link to comment
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