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510revisited

Just another (LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

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Update: still waiting on parts. Specifically more AN fittings, clamps for the fuel pump, and some other misc. bits. I mounted the pre filter today. Felt very anxious about drilling into an almost 60 year old car. But got the clamp mounted. Here are pics of the location. OKC1ZNC.jpg

 

gonna mount the pump with two clamps that are the same as the one in the previous picture. I will mount them on isolators too so as to reduce as much vibration as possible. All clamps and hardware are stainless.rCjDH3S.jpg

This is all underneath the rear passengers butt. 

Heres a mock up of the efi with the uncut aluminum plate...

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This is my layout to shave the aluminum. The yellow curve is the hole at the top of the plate. The blue curve is where the adapter bolts to the manifold. My progress is slow, which i solely blame on amazon, and myself. More to come...

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Got this done yesterday and today. This is my first time bending tube. Learned it takes patience... this was my first try piece to. Kinked it a wee bit, but i think it'll be fine. If not, im sure someone will chime in. This whole setup reminds me of mad max...UJiAT4b.jpg

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After successfully completing this, i moved onto drilling the adapter plate for the throttle body. All four bolt holes line up. 🤣 I need to bring home some layout tools from work so i can start carving the hole out. Im trying to be as precise as possible. diLNnuP.jpg

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So ive run into a problem. Hopefully some of you guys who are reading this (not many, judging by my lack of responses) can help. I bought a counterboring end mill bit to use on my adapter plate. However the shank is to big for the chuck on the press. Im at a loss of what to do. Is there an adapter i dont know about? Order a new chuck that goes that big, which in itself is a hassle. I know the serial number and model number of the press, but dont really know what im looking for. Any and all help is appreciated..

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What size is the end mill?

Are you looking for a drill chuck adaptor or something to replace the chuck you have all together?

I bought one, which of course I cant find a listing for, but It fit a standard hand drill size chuck and allowed me to hold up to a 1" drill....

 

 

 

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So the end mill is a 16mm diameter shank, and 16mm cutting edge as well. Drill press opens up to a 1/2 inch. Some one at work suggested a step drill. I thought about cutting the bit to the appropriate size (picture cutting off the top of a xmas tree) and seeing how that would work. I found a shop local to me, but they close at 330 and i dont get into town from my commute til 400. #1stworldproblems 😭

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This is what I was thinking.... 

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F122042018934

 

But cant find an appropriate straight shank to match...

 

This is what I have.... 

20190704-085447.jpg 

Covers 3/16 - 3/4 and fits a standard drill ... I think it's a 3/8 shank...

 

Not sure what else to suggest.... 

Edited by Crashtd420
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Wish I was closer to help more.... I have a shop and a friend that could probably help.... plus what I could possibly do... but that doesnt really do you any good...

 

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May have found a solution to the counterbore problem. I was channel surfing on YouTube and came across a guy who drilled a hole with a wood paddle bit, and a "forstner" bit into a chunk of aluminum. That lead me into more surfing, and eventually this fVkJx9n.jpg i have some spare chunks of aluminum to practice on, so maybe by this weekend i may have an adapter. Finally. If anyone has advice on this let me know. Just for the record though, it doesnt have to be an extremely precise hole.

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I guess where there's a will there's a way. Or maybe just luck. Turns out if you dont need a super duper fine finish, wood bits drill aluminum. I got this done in the past two days. Gotta smooth out the runner, and shape the edges. The tb is 6×5 ish... heres some decent pics. Its getting there. Warning, lots of picseovg7At.jpg

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Interested to hear how this goes. What size is your motor? Are the injectors small enough for it?

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Im running, according to the p.o., a truck l20b. I have verified its an l20b, just not sure about the truck part. I emailed holley prior to purchase and they said it should work (of course). There is a guy on YouTube putting one on a late 70s corrolla with a four banger. Apparently they will handle from 90-300ish bhp. 

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Probably 3/8 bspt..... the only one on the head would be the one going to the heater.....

What are you after?

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The temp sensor for the sniper recommends intake or head. Not the thermostat housing. Just looking ahead. Not opposed to adaptors or retfhreading something. 

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Ahh.... I cant see why the lower part of the thermostat housing would give any different reading then the intake or head....

I thought of another possibility...

What about the drain plug on the side of the block ?

 

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That blue plug on the intake under the carb should have a pipe connected to it. That pipe should join another pipe coming from the thermostat housing and traveling down in front of the engine to the lower rad inlet to the timing cover. The coolant in the intake runners warms the air on cold days and draws away radiant heat from the hot exhaust pipes on hot days for better running. The pipe from the thermostat allows hot coolant from the engine to circulate past the thermostat so it can sample it and open. Look where the thermostat housing is on the head.... it's on the outside away from the warmest part. Without the bypass hose the coolant around the thermostat is stagnant and remains cool while the engine itself is close to over heating. That plug on the thermostat housing might be for the TVV that's been deleted and would be ideal for the temp sensor for the EFI...... if the bypass is connected.

 

Do you have a better picture of the front of the thermostat housing where the temp sender for the gauge is? The bypass hose should be right there beside it.

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1 hour ago, datzenmike said:

y8rlN3S.jpg

 

That blue plug on the intake under the carb should have a pipe connected to it. That pipe should join another pipe coming from the thermostat housing and traveling down in front of the engine to the lower rad inlet to the timing cover. The coolant in the intake runners warms the air on cold days and draws away radiant heat from the hot exhaust pipes on hot days for better running. The pipe from the thermostat allows hot coolant from the engine to circulate past the thermostat so it can sample it and open. Look where the thermostat housing is on the head.... it's on the outside away from the warmest part. Without the bypass hose the coolant around the thermostat is stagnant and remains cool while the engine itself is close to over heating. That plug on the thermostat housing might be for the TVV that's been deleted and would be ideal for the temp sensor for the EFI...... if the bypass is connected.

 

Do you have a better picture of the front of the thermostat housing where the temp sender for the gauge is? The bypass hose should be right there beside it.

So what your saying is if i dont have a bypass hose, the car will blow up in to a gazillion pieces??! 🤣. On the real, i noticed it almost over heated one time when i was idling in a drive thru, on a semi cool day. I will take a picture in a little while of the thermostat housing for you mike. Although holley recommends not to hook up to the t housing you think it'll be ok? I have thought about using that blue plug hole on the intake. This kit was 1200 clams so i dont wanna screw anything up. 

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7 minutes ago, 510revisited said:

So what your saying is if i dont have a bypass hose, the car will blow up in to a gazillion pieces??! 🤣. On the real, i noticed it almost over heated one time when i was idling in a drive thru, on a semi cool day. I will take a picture in a little while of the thermostat housing for you mike. Although holley recommends not to hook up to the t housing you think it'll be ok? I have thought about using that blue plug hole on the intake. This kit was 1200 clams so i dont wanna screw anything up. 

I dont have the bypass on my side draft intake.... I plumbed a fitting from the bottom of the thermostat house over to the water pump to keep the flow going.... 

The more I think about it I bet that unit wants to see a location where the coolant is moving..... 

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Does the coolant circulate through the intake even if the thermostat is closed or is that the whole reason for the bypass tube?

Maybe add a bypass to the thermostat housing like I did then use the port on the intake for the temp sender.....

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Mike, here are said pictures. Appears to be no bypass hose at all. For the record, this is a new housing. I bought it because i couldnt get the temp sensor to come out, so i said f it. When i removed the old one i noticed it had no thermostat at all. But i have since installed one.1DEEUsb.jpg

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1 hour ago, 510revisited said:

Mike, here are said pictures. Appears to be no bypass hose at all. For the record, this is a new housing. I bought it because i couldnt get the temp sensor to come out, so i said f it. When i removed the old one i noticed it had no thermostat at all. But i have since installed one.1DEEUsb.jpg

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On the side there is that npt plug.... that's where I installed my bypass....

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What do you have going on with the water pump inlet then....?

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1 hour ago, Crashtd420 said:

Does the coolant circulate through the intake even if the thermostat is closed or is that the whole reason for the bypass tube?

Maybe add a bypass to the thermostat housing like I did then use the port on the intake for the temp sender.....

 

 Everything inside the block wants out. The coolant in the intake and under the thermostat flows out and meets in a Y and together they flow down to the lower rad inlet in a closed loop.

 

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There should be a fitting on the side where that plug is.

 

NO it won't blow up but the inside of the block and head can easily exceed the thermostat rating of 180F. This is because the thermostat is a long way from the coolant that is really hot. The thermostat is outside the head and surrounded in cold coolant. What can happen is coolant can overheat and boil causing an over pressure in the cooling system. Both rad hoses get very hard from the pressure build up and the cap might even vent out the overflow. Nissan developed this system to allow the thermostat to sample the coolant from inside the engine (a closed loop that does not involve the cold rad water) and open as soon as possible.

 

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mmK5Llr.jpg

 

Lower rad hose inlet should look like this. Rad hose at bottom, heater return on the left and the bypass coming in from the top. It's a closed system that constantly circulates hot coolant past the thermostat and back into the engine.

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Engines always run best when there is neither extremely hot or extremely cold weather. Coolant in the intake warms the intake air the same amount even in below zero weather. When it extremely hot the coolant removes the heat radiated from the hot exhaust just inches away. The car runs like it's spring out over a much wider range. Engine is performing in the temp range it was tuned for. 

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