Just another (LOOK AT ME!!!) 69 DIME build thread.

[Crashtd420]

Ya I know what your saying.... bang for the buck it's hard to argue the possibilities of the sniper..... 

If I was still setup for  a downdraft carburetor I'd be all over it..... 

 

I actually love the way my engine looks with the weber dcoe on it....

How could you not....

 

 

I'd spend the extra for the heritage throttle body from jenvy purely to maintain the look..... but that might take me some time to afford all that..... I'm hoping once I'm done tuning I'll be happy for a while with my carburator.... but ill be saving my pennies for the future.... the carb wasnt cheap either so I'd like to get some use out of it first..... 

 

Ha I had to look up moratorium..... 

I get that.... if I spent what I wanted my wife would kill me..... when I'm not driving it I dream to much of what I could do to the truck.... 

 

And sorry I'm gonna be no help on the coilovers, but I'm look forward to when your able to move forward on the efi idea.... hell make extra adaptors and sell them.... if you can get a good design I bet you could sell plenty..... 

[510revisited]

Thats a slick setup crash. I thought about doing your same setup, both with a carb and/or an itb.  Either way, looks killer. Bet it sounds good too.

   Well i just learned why i cant keep my carb running correctly. Its got a vacuum leak on or near the throttle linkage. Probably the shaft for the butterflies. More reason to say fuck you carb life!! Any quick easy fix ideas? A shit ton of jb weld? Hot glue gun? Ky jelly? 🤣

[Crashtd420]

I does sounds good... I really believe the key to a single dcoe is the lynx intake.... 

It pairs 1 and 4 , 2 and 3.... something to do with induction pulses.....

 

I've heard about that issue before with carbs leaking at the throttle shaft....

I forgot which carb you have after all this efi talk..... I believe there are repair kits out there for that problem.....

[510revisited]

Good ole weber 32/36. I also have what is i believe to be the original carb. Thought about using it just so i can have a decent runner. But thats probably a whole new set of problems in itself.

[Crashtd420]

Check this place out.....

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/productdetails.asp?RecID=5949

 

They have some bushings and washers that look to be for the throttle shafts....

 

Also they sell this to replace the nylon bushing which I can only assume would be where the air leak your talking about is . 

[510revisited]

I ordered my jets from them. I just ordered the plastic bushings for both shafts. I dont wanna put too much money into this thing, seeing as how its hopefully gonna end up as a paper weight. Sucks though, they charged me well around 2/3 of the buying price just for shipping. 

[Lockleaf]

I had a massive vacuum leak at my throttle shaft on a used 32/34 weber.  Turns out the throttle shaft bore was so worn the secondary shaft would bind and never open.  I put in a set of those exact bearings, purchased from Pegasus, and it fixed both the shaft wear leak and the linkage binding.

[510revisited]

My linkage doesn't necessarily bind, but it does stick. I put in a stiffer spring, which seemed to help, but only intermittently. My linkage is kinda wonky, and was set up by th p.o.. i cant say the holes are worn out, but it does stick, and have a vacuum leak, so ill give these cheapo bushings a shot.

On the subject of carbs, i understand any vacuum leak can damn near upset these thing, i.e. valve cover, vacuum hoses, loose carb, blah blah blah. But what about an ehaust leak where the manifold bolts to the pipe? Would that effect performance? I took my exhaust apart months ago to drop the tranny, and thoroughly cleaned all mating surfaces when i bolted it back together.  Like everything else ive done on this car it was just a bandaid till i got a proper exhaust done. Now it has a small, but noticeable leak at said joint.. 

 

[510revisited]

The moratorium has been lifted, and i got the bushings in, but cant seem to get the damn thing to idle nicely. It kinda acts like it has a miss. I hooked up the timing light to all four leads (not at once) to make sure the wires were atleast sending power. Last time i checked the timing it was spot on. Im at a loss here. Kinda need some direction. Thinking it has to do with the ignition. Could it possibly be the matchbox? Are they a go/no go kinda deal, meaning they just stop working instantly? Ive had the car running smooth before, so thats why im at a loss. I could take a video, but dont know how to upload them to ratsun. Help please

[Crashtd420]

So exhaust leak sounds minor, should be fine.....

 

And the obvious on the carb...

Idle speed and air/fuel was adjusted, or atleast attempted...

 

As far as the possible miss....

I'd be looking at the cap and rotor, then the plugs.....

Was this distributor a recent upgrade?

Do you have the old or another one to try?

 

I'm not to familiar with the matchbox distributor,  but I believe the only problem they have might be the black box.....

Don't people sometimes install a remote type little box? Or is that a different style distributor?

[510revisited]

New plugs, wires, cap, rotor, plugs. Maybe only a few hundred miles on all of it. Did it all at the same time as well. I have an extra dizzy, but i believe it to be a points distributor, and i dont have a ballast resistor, so thats a no go. I DO have a n.i.b. knock off matchbox. I may just pull the dizzy tomorrow and install it. I wonder if it could be gunk in the carb. I have yet to clean my fuel system due to waiting for the jump to efi. The more i think about it, the way it runs/sounds is like a Subaru. You know the typical boxer sound. 

[Crashtd420]

I would try swapping the dizzy..... you could even try the points one.... the ballist resistor is there so you dont burn up the points .... some one here runs his like that and just keeps an extra set of points in the truck... so for a test you'll be ok....

 

Also check the top of the rotor and see if theres any build up.... take a little fine sand paper and smooth it over.... 

 

I have found cap quality to be poor.... I had a slight miss that would always go away with a new cap.... last time I cleaned the spot on the rotor ..... 

This year I have a new rotor, and sourced a bmw cap to fit the 123 dizzy.....

 

If you can Get an oem cap and rotor if you didnt... might not be the problem but I'm not a fan of what we get from the parts store...

[510revisited]

Ive always been one to clean my rotor, and cap, and plugs. Poor mans tune up! I did notice the cap had build up on the inside on the little metal parts (i dont know their technical name). I even thought that it was maybe a bit to soon for that much build up. Wasnt a whole lot, but too much too soon. 

[Crashtd420]

Ya I thought you had that all covered just figured I would throw it out there.....

 

What's the material being used in the cap.... usually you like to see copper terminals ...

I have had some of them start missing after only a couple 100 miles..... reason I went to an oem one..... I was carrying a spare from oriellys with me.... lifetime warranty so I kept getting new ones,  but that was getting old really quick.....

Edited April 6, 2019 by Crashtd420

[510revisited]

Well, i went ahead and bought another cap (aluminum contacts inside, again) and that solved nothing. Replaced fuel pump with a new one, nothing. Still has a misfire. Decided to pull the dizzy and replace the matchbox with a new one i had laying around. Now no spark at all. Either a bad match box or i wired it wrong. On that note, any one have a pic of which wire goes where? The wires from the matchbox that go into the dizzy, NOT from matchbox to coil.

Could too high of fuel pressure cause a misfire? I hooked up the guage on the new pump and at higher rpms it shows around 4-5 ish. I think someone mentioned 3 ish is best. 

Edited April 14, 2019 by 510revisited

[Crashtd420]

I dont know if to much fuel pressure would cause a mis fire but it definitely causes an over rich condition....

Yes 3 3- 3.5 is best.....

I think I mentioned the Holley regulator to someone yesterday.. I've had goodluck with it..... 

[510revisited]

Stay tuned, pun intended. 

[Crashtd420]

Someone found some extra money.... I hope it works good, in theory it should...

 

 

[510revisited]

So i started my preliminary fit up. Out with the old, in with the new. I will have to make an adapter for sure, but it seams to fit nicely.. again, all preliminary...

[510revisited]

Sooooo, for those in the know, does anyone see any reason, for or against, as to removing the bridge in between the two inlet holes on the INTAKE MANIFOLD. I.e. the holes under the carb, or tb in my case. Not for hp, just for less obstructions. My adapter for the weber has no bridge. I just want continuity. 

As an afterthought, any issue with making it a true oval. The tbs hole diameters are identical 

Edited May 19, 2019 by 510revisited

[Crashtd420]

I have seen many say you can open it up.... usually when they fit a weber ...

 

I say open it to match the new throttle body .... atleast bevel the edge to transition between them... 

What your thinking is definitely no problem.... 

[510revisited]

In my infinite wisdom I forgot to take pics, and note which line was what when i removed my fuel tank. I noticed on the tank it had two lines coming out the bottom. One is big, the other small (obviously) which one is the feed line? Im assuming the big one..

[Tedman]

The small one is the fuel outlet and larger one above is the return which is normally plugged on later cars w/o a return line. If you hook up your fuel line to the upper nipple, you'll start sucking air at  ~1/4 tankfull. 

[510revisited]

Perfect. Thanks tedman. Next time ill take pics.

[510revisited]

Ok, so im waiting on a block of aluminum,  6x6x5/8 so i can make an adapter. Ill show my progress on that later. Right now, these are my plans. Mount the pre fuel filter and fuel pump. I plan to use 3/8 od aluminum fuel line. Reasons being they wont rust, and easier to bend. Ive never done fuel line so im all ears. I plan to just swedge the ends to accept the rubber fuel line where needed. Ive worked out, more or less, where i will mount the parts. Here are a few pics.

Where the pre filter will go..rubber from tank to hard line through body to rubber to filter. If that makes any sense. I plan to mount something that will support the lines as they pass thru the body holes so they wont rub anything.

From pre filter: rubber to hard line to rubber to pump. From pump, to engine bay, all new hard line (assures its completely clean, plus the lines are old. I may sell them cause they do appear good though).

This is where i plan to fit the pump

Im assuming this is where the  rear passengers calves rest more or less. Someone correct me if im wrong. The system requires a return line, so i will make an all new return line as well. I havent guite worked out the routing in the engine bay. Im thinking of maybe some sort of bulkhead fittings, though im still all ears. 

I do plan to use something like this to mount the filter under the car. I plan to build some sort of shield for both the pre filter and pump, while still allowing for good air flow around the pump... and Holley said it was easy bolt on. Liars!!! Im hoping to get a start on things this next weekend. Im dying to drive this bitch again.