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720 king cab healights/dahlights dont work


Kingcab

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So I have a 82 720 and the healights work but they are very dimm the driver side is super dimm and when u turn on the high beem only the passenger side works and also the dash lights dont turn on and the cigarette lighter doesn't work.. what would cause all this? And is it all linked together?.. 

 

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 Check the running/parking lights are they off as well? If so get them working first and this will fix the dash lights. You also need dash/running lights to power the hi/low headlight relay so that might also end up being fixed as well. The two fuses closest to the front of the truck are for the headlamps.

 

Check/clean your battery posts and cable terminals and look on the positive cable for your fusible links. (usually black and green wires) If any looks all burnt or crispy replace it.

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I cleaned all connections running lights work fine. But only the dash loghts cigarette lighter dont work and the headlights are dimm and when I turn the high beems on all work besides the driver side inside light. I've checked all fuses and wires on the fusebox and the relay is branew. 

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If the side marker, license, running and parking lights are working then the dash lights are disconnected somehow. Did you turn the dash light dimmer switch to full brightness???? Is the dimmer plugged in? Under the steering column are two 10 pin connectors near each other, one white and one blue (maybe green) Unplug and plug back in..... maybe the connection is poor to the dash.

 

 

Not following the headlight statement. What happens when headlamps are turned ON in the low beam position??? What happens when you switch to HI beams????

 

Do you have stock headlamps or after market????

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I've changed the diner switch with a new one and I took off my cluster and cleaned all connections going to the back of it. When I turn on headlights they are dim and when I turn on high beem they are also dim but the driverside inside one doesn't work only they are also stock headlamps. I'll have to follow out every wire and see if there a broken wire somewhere as I noticed theres an old rat nest in on of the vents.

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The headlight circuit on the 720 wiring harness is a weird animal, yes you need to check your grounds, but you cannot add any grounds either.

First check to make sure the headlight plugs on the outside headlights are plugged in properly, if one is upside down it will cause issues as it puts a ground where it is not supposed to be.

Next, do you have aftermarket gauges or radio in your truck, if you do and someone wired the gauge light in it to the headlight or dash light circuits this could be your issue as this light needs to be wired in properly, neither the headlight or dash light circuits have a traditional ground, aftermarket gauge lights normally ground out to the gauge housing, this is a ground that is not supposed to be there, if one follows the wires in the stock aftermarket gauges in headlight or dash light circuits you will only find grounds before the headlight relay and at the dash light dimmer control switch, stock gauges are in plastic housings.

On the 720 diesel wiring harness the only ground wires in the plastic instrument cluster are for the seat belt and clock circuits, even the high beam indicator has no ground, it is wired into the headlight circuit without a ground because them wires are after the headlight relay, I do not know if the tach on a gas wiring harness has a ground wire.

One can wire the aftermarket gauge lights to the marker light circuit, as it does have a traditional ground, but you need to find out which wires they are behind the dash, they will be wrapped up but one does have access at the blue and white plugs and at the plug connected to the headlight switch in the column clamshell.

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RN9P30h.jpg

 

Place a Z22 head gasket onto the bottom of your L head. The gasket is different but covers and seals everywhere but is thinnest in this corner, near the fuel pump above. I blobbed some JB Weld in this corner and filed it down by hand to make it wider here. The head and the timing cover just barely pinches the gasket in this area. When assembling you could rub a thin smear of RTV on the outward facing contact on the sides and front of the timing chain surfaces.

 

None of the 10mm bolts in the timing chain area will line up, but as I said it just has to seal in fumes and oil spray

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2 hours ago, Kingcab said:

I resurfaced the head with a flat board and sand paper I was wondering if it would be more worth it to do the same to the front cover.. as it has the studs in it and not sure if there removable for the process...

 

Thy can be pulled out with vice-grips. They are critical for proper alignment of the front cover so are needed. Why would you think it's warped?

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Did you also replace the front crank seal? These are the usual cause of drips. Also a very small dab of RTV where the oil pan, timing cover and the block meet on each side. Then the timing cover, block and head where they meet on both sides at the top.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I rebuilt the bottom end about 4000 miles ago..

 I bored out 1mm bigger than factory..

  I put bran new pistons crank bearings front and rear main seals, oil pan seal front cover seal and head gasket also all coolant and oil pump gasket. As we all as tranmiston seals. 

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