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Ignition Switch Quality: Duralast $24, LockSmart $30, Echlin $40


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AutoZone vs NAPA is what it boils down to.

 

I would think Echlin is better than Duralast, but I know nothing about LockSmart.

 

For my 1974 610.  EDIT:  OOPS TYPO!  I have a 620

 

BTW AZ is Lifetime, NAPA is 3yrs.

 

Maybe get the LockSmart for the warranty???

Edited by Cardinal Grammeter
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Oops, typo:  I have a 620, not a 610.

 

I bot the AZ Locksmart.  I'm going to try and swap the cylinder.  If it won't swap, I'll probably take it back.

 

RATS, no way to remove cylinder at all.

 

Looking at other make switches and the Standard looks like it has the recess for the removal pin, but there is no actual hole.

 

I wonder if I can buy a switch where I can use my old cylinder????  (Possibly Beck-Arnley - mechanic friend who is also locksmith says B-A switch cylinder comes out.)

Edited by Cardinal Grammeter
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I have run the Beck Arnley switches in 521s, 620s and currently in my 720 daily driver.  I have had no bad experiences with the beck Arnley switches.  I have also used the Airtex/Wells switches and have had good luck with them also.

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1974,620+pickup,1.8l+l4,1210105,electrical-switch+&+relay,ignition+starter+switch,4700

 

 

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The Beck switch cylinder will not interchange with the OE.

 

I would not use the LockSmart.  The spade connectors on the back feel thinner (bend easier) than the OE.

 

I recreated the engine shutting off due to ignition switch today.  It is weird in that it seems to only occur when I'm winding out the gears well into the secondary.  This time I was ready for it and was giggling the switch a second after it happened.  And yes, it was the switch.  Don't know why only with winding out gears...

 

I going to try a used OE from car-part.com.  I just don't want to have two sets of keys which is ghetto in my book.  Yes, I know.  I'm being OCD.

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