Write-up for 4x4 front disc replacement?

[MaxChlan]

Is there a write-up somewhere for the replacement of the front discs on 4x4 720's? I was reading the service manual and it seems a bit more involved than the caliper replacements I've done in the past. I used the search function on the forums but it wasn't coming up with anything. Does anyone know of a write-up somewhere on here or other forums?

Edited August 21, 2018 by MaxChlan

[bottomwatcher]

I don't know of a write up but have done it many times. Mostly due to the monkeys at the tire store snapping studs. I only take the rims in now. Not only do you have to separate the hub for the disc but wheelstuds also. While you are in there this would be a good time to replace the wheel bearings and the hub seal on the back of the hub. It sucks to spend more but this is a pain in the ass and to have to go back in to replace old parts. The crowned nut can be removed with a hammer and punch other than that no special tools.

[MaxChlan]

Yeah, I was afraid you would say that. My driver's side front wheel is running on 5 lug nuts because one of them was fucked up long ago before I had the truck, and while I was in there doing a seemingly simple rotor/pad job I was going to do that. My bearings are good, the automatic hubs work fine, and I'd rather just not fuck with all of that in the event I screw something up. My rotors don't seem to be warped or anything, I just figured since I was doing the rear drums (which are the cause of some braking and dragging issues) I was going to do the fronts as well. 

[bottomwatcher]

I ran my front rotors for 220k miles. They were grooved and getting thin but we're not warped. Like you I decided to replace them while replacing the worn out drums. Check their thickness and maybe just let them ride. The broken stud would bother me but that is just me. Good luck.

[DrvnDrvr]

Just a thought but how are your CV boots? If they need replacing in the not too distant future better to do the removing and replacing of ALL wear parts in your inner front end at one time. Kinda in for a dime in for a dollar. When I replaced my CV axles due them being the wrong ones, I replaced all the seals, bearings and other wear parts from the front diff out. Replaced the rotors and 3 studs as well. Stick with the OEM, Japan-made parts. Takes awhile to track down quality parts. There's always the $$ issue..

[MaxChlan]

My CV axles are actually only two years old; I had them replaced right away when I bought the truck (before I knew how to use a wrench) 

Edited August 22, 2018 by MaxChlan

[DrvnDrvr]

The front rotors aren't that hard to get to, if they've been off before. Like your head gasket the first time is the worst.

 

There is an outer snap ring on the CV axle and an inner one on the hub that both need to come off to get the front hub off. There is also an axle bearing bolt and lock ring w/ cotter pin that need to come off. With Auto-hubs it might be a little different but I think the autohub comes off as single unit just like the manual one.

 

 

The hex bolts holding the hub locker can be a B if they haven't been off before.

 

Since the CV axles have been replaced it shouldn't be too hard to get it apart.

Edited August 22, 2018 by DrvnDrvr

[MaxChlan]

On Sunday I'm going to do the drums and take a peek at the rotors and ascertain their condition. I've been told that it's unwise to change just the pads, as pads and rotors tend to create wear patterns together, but if the rotors look to be in good condition I may opt to just replace the pads and see how it goes. I'll throw the rotors I ordered in the parts pile until I need them. 

[DrvnDrvr]

Sometimes the old saying "If it ain't broke don't fix it." applies.

[weldingrod]

Not like an air brake system where you are constantly adjusting the brakes till they wear in; just change the pads and they will conform to the rotors just by using them. Basically automatic adjustment- any hydraulic brake system works the same way.