Long Rod 2300 and Patina

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Thought you guys might like to see some pics of a project I'm working on.

 

This is the car. It belongs to an old friend of mine, which is why I'm doing the job. I don't really work on Datsuns anymore, but I have known this guy for decades. He and I met while carving some bay area canyons one day, and we've been friends ever since. The car he's building now is full of patina, but is going to be an animal in sheep's clothing.

 

 

 

 

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

He brought me a bunch of parts he's been collecting so we could pick and chose. There were two sets of carbs and manifolds, plus a ton of other stuff.

 

 

We decided on the NOS Nissan Motorsports long runner intake, since he's going to keep this car. The manifold still has the part number on it. He also had a set of new rubber isolators for the carbs, so I got to work modifying them.

 

 

 

 

Basically, we cut the rubber to a round shape, which loosens them up a bit, making them softer. This helps further isolate them from the engine's vibes.

 

Mounting them to the manifold can be tricky due to the studs coming out of both sides of the isolators, so we used 8mm Jet Nuts with a 3/8 hex on them.

 

 

Before we got to mounting them up, I wanted to make him a heat shield. This does two jobs. Obviously, it's primary function is to block the radiant heat, but it also serves to tie the two carbs together which helps keep them in synch.

 

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Measurements taken.

 

 

 

Time to cut the holes.

 

 

I wanted this shield to tuck under the carbs, so we bent it about 90 degrees. I also wanted a little style so we rounded the tops corners and put it through the bead roller.

 

 

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

After remembering to drill the vent holes in the backing plate, assembly ensued.

 

Notice the jet nuts and the part number sticker.

 

 

 

 

 

Centerpull linkage is the only way to go.

 

 

 

We added some reflective heat barrier to the underside of the shield.

 

 

 

 

Edited August 21, 2018 by Stoffregen Motorsports

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Here's the motor in all it's Long Rod glory. The owner wanted good street manners and a quiet valvetrain for this car, but it should make about 210 on the dyno. A full blown street 2300 could make 240hp or more.

 

 

 

 

That's all I got for now, but after we get it back from the dyno, I'll post up the installation. If I can find time to be there, maybe I'll get some dyno pics too.

[Edz280zx]

Good looking car. Nice motor!

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I love the car. He's leaving the paint just the way it is.

[wayno]

I guess I do not understand a couple things so I am going to ask, first I am used to having the heat shield go between the manifold and the carbs with the heat shield bent out and up slightly away from the block with heat barrier material, this way I understand, but I am used to SUs.

The other thing that confused me is when you said the shield would tie them together and keep the carbs in sync, this I do not understand, SUs are tied together by the balance tube in the manifold, that manifold has no such balance tube between the runners, so how does this setup help keep them in sync?

What head casting is that on the block?

Is that a Z22 block or a bored out L20b, or do the long rods/pistons somehow make more displacement?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

The heat shield blocks the heat coming up from the exhaust manifold/header to keep the temp of the carb body down as much as possible. heat radiating up from the header will heat up the float bowls so this blocks the heat from down below. It also shields the heat near the opening of the carbs to keep the air charge cool. We could improve upon this by building an air box, but that's a bit overkill for this car.

 

How does it help the carbs stay in synch? Picture the soft mounts. They are pretty flexible. Now add in a linkage that twists the throttle shafts, in this case, both of them tied together in between the carbs. Since the carbs are synchronized by one simple screw where the two carbs meet, the soft carb mounts can allow the two carbs to twist apart from each other. The heat shield ties the two carbs together on the front of the carbs, allowing them to flex, but flex as a unit, thus keeping the linkage stable.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

This block is a L20B M2 casting, which means it was produced with thicker cylinder walls than the early US spec L20B. Normally you wouldn't bore a L20B block to 89mm, but the M2 casting has enough material.

 

89mm bore and the Z22 crank make the displacement. The long rods help with rod/stroke ratio, and in this case, develop more torque across a broader range than a stock rod combination. They make the power less peaky too.

[datzenmike]

Assume 152.5mm rods so what pistons? have to be near 29mm so.... custom? Or late Z22 rods?

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

I honestly don't know what pistons Rebello used in this motor. It was a budget build (was actually brought to them for repairs, but ended up being bored with new pistons), using existing parts, but I do know they are 89mm pistons and yes, the 6" N85 rods from a Z20.

 

Dave and I still have a pretty close relationship, I talk to him a couple times a month, but I really don't know what tricks he pulls out of his hat these days.

Edited August 22, 2018 by Stoffregen Motorsports

[wayno]

OK, so I understand how keeping the carbs moving together as one unit will keep them in sync, that is not the sync I was thinking about, fact is I never even thought about the sync you were talking about, as I said I am used to SUs which I do believe are not near as heavy as them type of side drafts.

As for the heat shield I guess I see that heat shield as kind of a tunnel that is open to the block side since the shield is out at the end of the carbs while the SUs have the heat shield at there base and they are open to the inner fenders, but most air filter housings make a tunnel also and keep heat in, I went with separate round air filters this time around instead of a modified 510 air filter housing, I also put wiring covers on my fuel lines to try and keep the fuel cool, I have not had the cutting out when starting out from a signal light since when it is above 90 degrees outside, I figure my fuel was boiling in the bowls before.

 

Edited August 22, 2018 by wayno

[datzenmike]

22 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I honestly don't know what pistons Rebello used in this motor. It was a budget build (was actually brought to them for repairs, but ended up being bored with new pistons), using existing parts, but I do know they are 89mm pistons and yes, the 6" N85 rods from a Z20.

 

Dave and I still have a pretty close relationship, I talk to him a couple times a month, but I really don't know what tricks he pulls out of his hat these days.

 

The L20B and the Z22 deck height is 227.45mm so stroke, rod length and piston have to fit in here or hit the under side of the head. 152.5 + 46/227.45 = 28.95mm left for the piston pin height.... although you still have the gasket thickness above the piston.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

As I said, they are custom pistons.

[seattle smitty]

Oh, cool stuff (and what could we expect out of Cool, California!), Stoffregen!!  I can do any of that in my shop except that I have never bought a bead roller, which after all is a must-have for best work, so here's motivation, thank you.  I'm wondering if you are stopping with the heat shield or are you going to fab an outside-air duct??

(EDIT)  Oops, I see you addressed that.

Personally, I don't care for the rat-rod look, but different strokes for different folks. However, an FYI for the guys that do like that look, the word is NOT "puh-TEE nuh"  but is properly pronounced (in USA) about halfway between "PAH-ti-na" (Brit.) and "PAT-i-nuh.  And I'm sure you all want to sound like English teachers  .  .  .  .

Edited August 22, 2018 by seattle smitty

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

Got the spray bar yesterday, so that will be going in soon...

[banzai510(hainz)]

Cool.!!!!!!!!!!!!

But I woyld get soem cool wheels for it. Nothing cooler that a beat 510 with soem cool wheels on it

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

24 minutes ago, banzai510(hainz) said:

Cool.!!!!!!!!!!!!

But I woyld get soem cool wheels for it. Nothing cooler that a beat 510 with soem cool wheels on it

Gimme some suggestions.

 

I know what wheels I would chose from if it were a nice, clean, newly painted car, but the patine is throwing us off.

 

How about some old Gotti fan wheels?

[]2eDeYe]

Can the car still run 14"s? 

 

I would stick with some OEM alloys. Swazis maybe. Would keep with the sheeps clothing thing. :)

[banzai510(hainz)]

wheel Suggestions?

Mesh SSRs????????? I have a set for . But nobody wants to buy them. Look brand new.

I keep having this dream I find a white man trans round headlight 810 wagon so I can slam it down and put these rims on it

Edited September 4, 2018 by banzai510(hainz)

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

How much do you want for them? What size are they? Color?

 

I love wagons too. I just picked up a 1955 Willys Wagon because I couldn't say no to a wagon.

[Stoffregen Motorsports]

2 hours ago, ]2eDeYe said:

Can the car still run 14"s? 

 

I would stick with some OEM alloys. Swazis maybe. Would keep with the sheeps clothing thing. ?

I don't know what he has planned for the brakes. Probably just 280ZX stuff.

[]2eDeYe]

]

 

I guess they are 15" 

Classic, but understated oem

[banzai510(hainz)]

I dont want to ship. Local sale. Was hoping "Icehouse" would get these

I had postedphotos in forsale. a while back. I dont know how to post them on this tread side of things( I gave up loading photos)