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crewdogch47

1972 daston 4 Door 510 L16 auto to manual

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Hello to all, after buying my 72 510 its has a auto transmission and I just cant have that, so I want to start my 4 speed swap but I want to make sure I have all the parts on hand. The donor car was a 510 2 door with loads of floor rust. With an auto car I should not have to cut a hole in the floor right? I do understand that some wiring must be done I did save the wiring harness .

1.   Pedal assembly

2.Trans with shifter handle, mounting bolts

3. Flywheel, bolts

4. Starter

5. Flywheel dust cover

6. Drive shaft

7. Spacer behind flywheel

8. Clutch master cylinder 

9. Slave cylinder, clip for rubber line

10. Metal line from master cylinder to slave cylinder

11. Clutch, pilot bearing 

 

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If you have a complete 4 speed car there then you already have everything needed for this swap

 

The auto flywheel dust cover (or engine plate) will work. It's only divided in two so it can be removed to get at the torque converter bolts from the front.

Auto and manual drive shafts are pretty much the same for length.

The spacer on the end of the auto crankshaft must be pried off in order to mount the 4 speed flywheel.

The hole in the floor may need to be enlarged is all.

Auto and standards have different part numbers for the starter but I sure either will work.

 

Wiring

The two wires for the automatic inhibit switch need to be connected together. This is a safety device to prevent starting an auto in gear. They are both likely Black/Yellow stripe. Just join together and solder or crimp a connector on, but be sure to use heat shrink tubing as water and salt will get in and rot the connection and one day it won't even turn over.

 

The reverse light switch uses the two Red/Black wires. Just connect to the 4 speed revers light switch wires.

 

 

 

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Just an update on the manual swap.  I went to install the Clutch Pilot Bearing and its not fitting . Its a Auto Zone Dorman part number 14658 OD .815 ID .626 Depth .689 . I have in the chest freezer right now. I just want to see if its close to the right part? 

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It does not just 'push in'. Line it up, place a suitable size piece of wood over it and tap it in with a hammer.  

 

I just recently did mine. It was a National Bearing (Federal Mogul) PB-22. The Nissan part # is 32202-30000 This bushing is used on everything Nissan... it's easier to list what it doesn't fit. (A series)

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It has been a few years since I put a dog-leg 5-speed in my '72 510 so I'm likely not remembering all the details, but I'll mention a couple of things. And you may know these already.

The tranny cross members for 4-speed and auto are slightly different so be sure to grab the correct one when you go to bolt it up. If you only have the auto X-member it may be usable with modification but I don't really know.

I'm pretty sure you will need to enlarge the hole in the floor in an auto car. I remember my car having a smallish rectangular hole where the auto shifter fit through and a manual needs a larger round hole. There may be an adjacent line or wires under the the floor close to where you cut so be sure to look for that before cutting.

For a starter, I've been running a 280Z/Maxima gear drive starter for years with good result. If you are in AK this starter may help you a little when it gets cold. It seems to turn the engine over faster than a conventional drive Datsun starter. But I'm using the gear drive starter on an L20b, not a 1600, so I can't say for sure it will work for you.

I installed used clutch master and slave cylinders when I did my swap. It didn't take long to need to replace them with new ones so I would recommend starting with new if you can get them easily.

You shouldn't need to swap the entire pedal box although this may be easy enough to do. You can just take out the pivot bolt that goes through the brake pedal arm and replace it with the manual trans pedal arm. The hole and threads for the clutch pedal arm should be there in the auto car pedal hanger. Very important if you do this - one of the pedal arm hanger bolts is left hand thread. I'm almost certain it is the brake pedal bolt but not 100% sure. If you are strong enough, you can break the bolt or strip the threads if you don't know this.

The gas pedal for the auto car ends up being very close to the manual brake pedal. The manual trans gas pedal can be installed but I never got around to doing so on my car and live with it just fine.

 

Strolling off topic, my sister lives in Fairbanks and works as a civilian employee I believe at Wainwright. She recently sent pics of a huge out-in-the-weeds car collection somewhere in the Fairbanks area. There were some Datsuns in the pics, including as I recall one or two 510s. I'm curious if you got these cars or if not do you want me to get more details from her and pass them on to you? When she sent them I thought it was sad there probably wasn't anyone on Ratsun in the Fairbanks area and the cars looked shabby enough they wouldn't be worth shipping to the lower 48. I think she said the owners needed to clear the property so they may already be gone.

 

Len

 

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The gas peddle has 2 mounting screws through the floor but there are 3 threaded holes so it can be shifted sideways closer to the tunnel on a manual car. The linkage rod that the pedal contacts are different but you can easily just bend it over an inch.

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The car was located in North Pole. But its now on Fort Wainwright, and from what I can tell I am the only one in Fairbanks . LOL 

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I said you don't have to swap the pedal box from the manual car into the auto one. Which is true, you can hang clutch and brake pedals on either box. However, I think I remember the manual pedal box having an arm welded on one side for the clutch pedal return spring to hook to and the auto pedal box doesn't have this arm. I hooked my return spring to some other hole in the auto pedal box and it has worked. To hook up this fairly strong return spring, I attached a piece of hay wire to the end hook, ran the wire out beside the steering column, and pulled the wire with vise grips. It is hard to get a good pull on the spring in the confines under the dash.

 

Be sure to have a slight amount of free play on your clutch pedal when you get done. I'm thinking 1/16" to 1/8" but it doesn't want to be as much play as a mechanical linkage clutch free play. If the pedal is dead tight to the clutch master, the hydraulic clutch won't work well.

 

I think the reason I didn't relocate my gas pedal is the screws holding it to the floor looked like they would put up a real fight before they would come out. PB Blaster and an impact driver would probably get them out, but my laziness won out over trying that.

 

Len

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After looking into the pedal box I found the welded tab that you are talking about . it looks like I need to remove it all . thanks again for all the information that you guys pass along to the new guys . 

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Hello to all I had a very good day I got the engine and trans back in . I had to cut a hole for the shifter and  I had to drill to holes for the trans mount but I missed placed the trans rubber mount does any one have a line on a place to buy one ? 

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Hello to all!!!!  I am on tail end of the swap butI cant figure this wiring out. On the car I have two different  wire harness.  The first one has two wires blue with a black stripe and black wire. The other harness has 4 wires  two wires red with black stripe and two black with blue stripe. From the Haynes manual I have three control switches ( top its the neutral gear switch)  (middle its the transmission switch 3 gear ) (bottom reverse gear switch)  any help would be great .

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OK so I tested the two red and black wires with the reverse gear switch and no rear light ? and I did place the trans in reverse but the engine was not running 

 

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Don't need the engine running only the ignition on.

 

One wire should have 12v the other goes to the tail lights and the switch makes the connection. If you find one has 12v, jumper the two wires together and the lights should come on. If they do but not with the switch... the switch is not working.

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Hey guys I am looking for a gasket set for my 4 speed 510. Does any one have lead? 

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14 minutes ago, crewdogch47 said:

The 4 speed transmission gasket set.

Ya I just realized your posting in the drivetrain section....

I dont think I remember finding a kit, but the individual seals and gaskets are easily obtained at any parts store..  plus i think you can still get them through Nissan... 

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There's the cover plate in front, the cork gasket for the oil pan on the bottom and the gasket for the tail or rear extension. Unless you have the transmission apart or ther's a leak there's no gain from replacing them. I would definitely replace the rear seal though. 32136-E0100. This seal about, $5,  is used on just about every Nissan made. Pry out with screwdriver and place a block of wood over the new one and hammer in. Use a large socket to seat it completely

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