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Greetings! Intro/build thread


Ben_upde

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5 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

What did the shaft cost? $300?

 

And they didn't paint it...

I wish it was only $300 😞

$575. The only local shop that even knew what I was after was who I went with. I know that the only weak spot in my entire drivetrain is now the rear end so I am ok with the cost. 

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On 8/4/2019 at 3:09 AM, Ben_upde said:

 

The hardest part is packaging everything to fit under the bed without cutting. That is my overall goal so if I lose a little bit of adjustability for maximum truck utilization that may be what stays. If it’s really horrible handling wise I can relocate how it mounts to the pumpkin and crossmember to alter angles. 

Horizontal lowers parrallel to ground is perfect, if you google "Billy Shope" he had a website with calcs on 3 links to work out offset on your top link to one side of centre which counter acts the torque from drive line so it will launch straight, another option if needed.

Top link front with the front lower will give you some "anti squat" which will help for good launches and to stop it slumping in the rear every time you accelerate hard which will happen if the top link is also parrallel to the ground. To much is going to re arrange your spine though! 

I have plans for a 3 link in my 620 so i really like the work you've done for a bit of inspiration! Keep up the good work. 

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3 hours ago, Str8jacket said:

Horizontal lowers parrallel to ground is perfect, if you google "Billy Shope" he had a website with calcs on 3 links to work out offset on your top link to one side of centre which counter acts the torque from drive line so it will launch straight, another option if needed.

Top link front with the front lower will give you some "anti squat" which will help for good launches and to stop it slumping in the rear every time you accelerate hard which will happen if the top link is also parrallel to the ground. To much is going to re arrange your spine though! 

I have plans for a 3 link in my 620 so i really like the work you've done for a bit of inspiration! Keep up the good work. 


Thanks for the info and compliment! I’m diving into areas i’ve not worked with yet so it’s an on-going learning experience for sure!

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Exhaust is basically finished. A couple band clamps to allow for removal in the future as necessary. Otherwise....

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now I gotta get my ass in gear to finish the wiring and the few minor details to drive her before winter hits!

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So an ‘oh shit’ situation has ensued. Turns out Audi transmissions spin the driveshaft reverse direction from pretty much every other manufacturer on the planet. I really want to be able to drive it this summer finally, and it’ll need a lot of work getting the tune narrowed down and all the little bugs worked out so I have a plan. I’m going to flip the diff carrier, modify the third link and possibly raise the rear end to prevent contact with the now higher positioned driveshaft. I’ll overfill the diff considerably and try to drive it like a white man as much as possible. Over the winter i’ll grab a Dana 44 out of a Wagoneer narrow track, shorten one leg and use a CJ ‘wide track’ shaft to bring overall dimensions to the original Datsun size and install high pinion, reverse rotation gears in it to bring the pinion back down and have all things mesh as intended. Hopefully I can get a pinion flange with the same 1350 u-joint I am running now so all I have to do is get the shaft shortened as needed to fit the longer diff nose. 
What a pain 🤦🏻‍♂️

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Yeah, that's a face-palm moment for sure.

 

Flipping the diff - it is possible, but I would drill the diff housing for a higher fill plug. I did this on my Rover with high pinion front diff and it makes it a whole lot easier.

 

Horsepower wise, you'll probably never blow up a Datsun diff running it upside down. But yes, a HP D44 out of a Bronco of F series truck would be a good place to start.

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1 hour ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Yeah, that's a face-palm moment for sure.

 

Flipping the diff - it is possible, but I would drill the diff housing for a higher fill plug. I did this on my Rover with high pinion front diff and it makes it a whole lot easier.

 

Horsepower wise, you'll probably never blow up a Datsun diff running it upside down. But yes, a HP D44 out of a Bronco of F series truck would be a good place to start.

big time 🤦🏻‍♂️
 

I planned on filling it through the vent on the top to about half an inch under the opening. That should be be sufficient for the driving I intend to do this year with it. 

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On 6/24/2020 at 10:57 PM, EDM620 said:

Liking this build, hadn't thought of an Audi for power but why not? More different = more cool. Are the buckets out of an Audi as well?

No. They are super cheap ebay specials. The seats in the truck when I got it were soaked in mouse pee and went straight to the dumpster. These are just a placeholder until I turn my attentions to the interior. 
Thanks for the kind words!

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