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Greetings! Intro/build thread


Ben_upde

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I have said this before, if you need more clearance at the steering shaft, it is possible to convert the box/shaft/column assembly to use an exposed steering shaft and u-joints for more clearance. You could use a 720 box or modify your existing unit. A 720 box won't fit directly in as it mounts on the opposite side of the frame rail, but it could be used.

 

Just an FYI.

 

Looks great BTW.

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9 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

I have said this before, if you need more clearance at the steering shaft, it is possible to convert the box/shaft/column assembly to use an exposed steering shaft and u-joints for more clearance. You could use a 720 box or modify your existing unit. A 720 box won't fit directly in as it mounts on the opposite side of the frame rail, but it could be used.

 

Just an FYI.

 

Looks great BTW.

 

Since I won’t be using AC I was able to remove material from the accessory bracket to provide me with all the room I need. 

jXK9CbK.jpg

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Crazy busy with work so not a lot has happened. Did get the radiator situation sorted put about 95% and started wiring the pig. 

 Cjy3nGG.jpg

 

Gonna bring the wiring thru the firewall with cannon plugs. Cleaner look, easier to work on and i’ll be putting the ECU inside so should be less resistant to damage

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And using most of the stock audi linkages and shifter mechanism I determined with a working mockup that everything feels great and will work exactly as anticipated. Shifter sits in exactly the same place as it used to so a little trimming and fabbing and the Audi shift box will fit right at home. 

Short video

https://imgur.com/a/K0Fc22b

 

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17 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Audi in a Datsun? Sounds funny at first, but it looks good under the hood.

 

Not sold on the green wire loom though...

 

How did you narrow the sway bar?

 

I think once the truck is painted and the color scheme is completed it’ll look a lot more at home. 

 

To narrow the sway bar I just heated an existing bend and tweaked the arm inward on each side. I have a spring shop locally that will re-heat treat it for me when i am to the point of finalizing everything. 

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Charge pipe routed and mocked up. Not quite where I wanted to run it but in the interest of keeping a stock-ish appearance, behind the valance was not gonna work. Still need to source more 2.5” aluminum pipe so I can finalize and weld it all together. Pretty happy with how it fits and where it fits ?

vNIdkTO.jpg

Coming thru the fenderwell and down, the silicone will not stay

ebNNT7I.jpg

I didn’t have any 2.5” pipe left to mock up with, nor did I want to cut it up till I was sure where it would go I just have some scrap 2” sitting as a placeholder for now. Plenty of room for the larger pipe though

35A94XD.jpg

This silicone step up connector will likely stay as a means of disassembly for maintenance/repair in the future

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‘Custom’ duct tape temporary pipe hanger ?

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It all hides nicely behind the valance and lip though. Only the slightest hints of what’s going on from the sides ?

mYbAq6h.jpg

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Just curious why so many of the turbo builds I see in forums these days utilize the heavy gauge, what appear to be cast aluminum bends. It's not like you're running 100 lbs of boost, so regular old 14 gauge aluminum tubing should work.

 

I do like how it's coming along, so don't think I'm a hater.

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4 minutes ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Just curious why so many of the turbo builds I see in forums these days utilize the heavy gauge, what appear to be cast aluminum bends. It's not like you're running 100 lbs of boost, so regular old 14 gauge aluminum tubing should work.

 

I do like how it's coming along, so don't think I'm a hater.

Price. These cast bends are cheaper and have tighter radiuses than mandrel bent tubing. I think they were about $7 each versus $30+ for a mandrel bent aluminum elbow. I could make it out of steel but meh. 

Edited by Ben_upde
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Ok. I do realize the bend radius is tighter, but I wasn't aware of the cost issue. I use only tubing on my intake plumbing jobs. Also, I bit the bullet and bought a Kramer bead roller for small tubing a couple years ago. It was not cheap. I use my large bead roller for any tubing over 3". So I guess I'm invested in tubing...

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2 hours ago, Stoffregen Motorsports said:

Ok. I do realize the bend radius is tighter, but I wasn't aware of the cost issue. I use only tubing on my intake plumbing jobs. Also, I bit the bullet and bought a Kramer bead roller for small tubing a couple years ago. It was not cheap. I use my large bead roller for any tubing over 3". So I guess I'm invested in tubing...

If you do it more than once in a blue moon it might make sense to buy benders and bead rollers. I’d honestly prefer to just have a single mandrel bent tube in the shape I want with a bead rolled at each end but nobody in the area has the capability and I cannot front those costs for practically zero return. 

Always compromises but in the end it’ll do exactly what I need it to so i’m happy.  

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  • 2 weeks later...

Other systems?

 

Well the EI (electronic ignition) distributor (aka matchbox) and matching coil from a '78 and up is a nice ignition up grade. Better output and no points to replace.

 

A higher output internally regulated alternator is nice.

 

A high volume KA oil pump.

 

A front disc brake kit.

 

A 5 speed was optional from '77 up.

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