Weber swap 32/36

[720 King Cab Killer]

Yes yes I'm finally going to do the swap. I have checked out every post and video I can find on the swap. I believe I have a manual choke on my Datsun 81 KC truck I don't see any electrical choke on it at all so going for the manual choke weber 32/36 with mounting plate yes I know I will need it. It will be nice to get rid of all that emissions crap I don't even need anymore give it a more clean look. After researching headers for the truck I have decided to stay with stock and just cap off them holes you know that come off the headers and go to the air filter yea don't need that anymore. I just hope I will not need a electric fuel pump we will see...…  New Cap rotor plugs as well...….once on I will be adjusting valve lash and timing to get it humming. Then its time to fix my steering gear. I think I can fix it I have adjusted it a few times and it just gets all loose again so I think I can tighten up that gear inside of the box. My Mechanic buddy told me its easy to do so I don't need to get a rebuilt one we will see... I haven't seen many videos on these subjects so I have decided to video the whole thing and put it on you tube....Its going to be fun. I get SO many complements on my 81 King cab every time I go to fill it up with gas...Its always ..HEY I had one of those in Highschool or every landscaper in the world asks me if its for sale LOL.... Its a great truck and a fucken blast to work on. Stay tuned!  

[datzenmike]

The last manual choke truck by Nissan was the 71 521 the '81 has automatic choke. If someone put one on there would be a pull lever in the cab... in any case get an electric choke, better in every way.

 

Look on the frame just forward of the right rear tire. If it has an electric fuel pump it will be there. Most do.

 

About adjusting the steering box.... Most of the wear (if any) is in the straight ahead position where it gets most use. If you remove all the play it can be tight to each side and jam while turning. Raise the front wheels off the ground and adjust the box. Spin the wheel fast from lock to lock looking for any tightness. If any, increase the gear lash so it turns easily. Running it tight like this will only wear out the box and it's bearings. Almost always, excessive steering wheel play is from worn out steering ball joints, or the idler arm.... or both. Replace what's needed and it will remove the wheel play.

[720 King Cab Killer]

Yep I rebuilt the whole front end last year shocks ball joints idler arm everything including new brake calipers and tried this method with no avail. I got it as tight as I could and took it down to get aligned. The guy said it was good only a littler off and that I eye balled it pretty good lol. I said I was gonna get a new steering box and He pointed out the gear box and said to tighten that gear inside the box with a long screwdriver. He explained I can get to it without taking it off the truck. Its tricky and you gotta fuck around with it to get it perfect but can be done and yea gotta raise the truck off the ground to do it....Im gonna give it a try see if I can save 300 bucks cause that's how much they cost. Oh and yea electric Weber it is lol and yep I seen that fuel pump too the other day when I had it off the ground so yea....  

[Charlie69]

PM me and I will tel you where you can find a used manual steering gear if the truck is still there.  It is a 1980 2 wheel drive.

[720 King Cab Killer]

LOL I saw three at a junk yard last week but yea ok ? 

 

[datzenmike]

The box adjustment is simple and easy, just get it right. How much wheel play are we talking about? 'Cause there has to be some.

[720 King Cab Killer]

SO I got my old carb off getting ready for WEBER LAND..... My question is what emissions can I eliminate do I need to keep my charcoal canister? I have Classic car insurance on it so it never needs emissions so I still need it for my fuel tank?  Im gonna up load some pics here in a few....I have a few more questions...…..so I need pics! 

[720 King Cab Killer]

[720 King Cab Killer]

[720 King Cab Killer]

What do I do with this? 

[datzenmike]

The charcoal canister also vents the gas tank. If you remove, the gas fumes have nowhere to go and stink up the cab. The canister is totally benign in operation... has no effect on running whatever. It's so much easier to just leave it. No one is going to know or care if it's there or not.

 

12 minutes ago, 720 King Cab Killer said:

 

Well you can remove the EGR and the BPT beside it but then you have to make and bolt on a cover plate for the intake to seal up the hole that's left. Then the exhaust tube must be sealed or removed also and the exhaust manifold sealed. I would use a metric pipe plug on the exhaust manifold. Well actually I would just leave it alone. You can easily deactivate by just leaving that hose off, but it doesn't affect full throttle performance anyway so you won't notice anything.

 

14 minutes ago, 720 King Cab Killer said:

 

That is the thermal vacuum valve. It prevents certain emission functions if the engine is cold. Be sure to plug the hole into the cooling system if you remove it.

[720 King Cab Killer]

Got it just gonna plug it and leave it....This is the exhaust pipes coming off the headers that go to the air filter. They are fucken rusted on there and will not budge PB blaster and a cheater bar? Maybe some propane heat? They gotta come off and get plugged….

[datzenmike]

Those allow filtered air from the filter housing into the exhaust to provide oxygen so the cat can burn any left over hydrocarbons and emission particles. There are one way valves on the filter housing and it uses exhaust negative pulses to suck in air. Again, benign in operation and has zero effect on performance and running.

 

Removing all this is not going to unlock 5 hidden HP 'gobbled up' by the emissions system. This is an '80s vehicle... they made emissions and the emissions systems cleaned up the mess after it was made. Today's emissions systems stop the engine from operating under conditions the make the emissions in the first place. It's a waste of time and there is the risk of causing a leak or affecting how it runs. You may even hurt the gas mileage.

[720 King Cab Killer]

Im not worried about HP you can hear the exhaust coming from them and its loud when its not hooked. With a Weber carb on they go nowhere and looks like shit so off they come....I don't think I need them...thanks for the info

[720 King Cab Killer]

Check this shit out.....I took off my header cause I was gonna paint it silver like the valve cover soon as I got it off I looked at it close and its cracked look at this shit NOW I gotta get another header. Hmmmm stock? After market? Im not looking for sound or more power just so it looks nice is all......What do you all think?

[720 King Cab Killer]

Also question...…...This is the electric plug that goes to the original Hitachi carb I can use this for the new Weber that's coming in the mail ? right? Just use the green wire? Right? 

[datzenmike]

Just get another exhaust manifold from a wrecking yard that bolts on perfectly. I guess this is where all the noise is coming from.

 

I assume you got the electric choke on the Weber? Connect whichever wire has 12 volts with the engine running. Has to be running for the choke relay to work

[Charlie69]

Leave the steel pipes alone you need these.  Keep the EGR funtional as when you take the truck through emissions they will most likely check for vacuum at the EGR.  They have mine 2 out of 3 times.

 

What year truck is this?

Edited August 12, 2018 by Charlie69

[720 King Cab Killer]

 DatzenM….Ok yep One of them wires is 12V lol....Yep gonna go take a look tomorrow at the junk yard on 27 ave pull a part? Anyway they have like three 720 there but bet they are all parted out by now. I was there when they were setting out a complete  4x4 720 I almost bought the whole truck as is for 800 bucks but passed it by I just don't have the room. Charlie... I have car collector insurance on my 720 so it NEVER needs to get emissions and yes I still have the pipes and the EGR all my stuff but I am thinking about capping it off I don't need it that's for sure. will it affect the running of the truck I don't think it will.... Its gonna look WAY cleaner with out all that smog shit...

[720 King Cab Killer]

So now another question I have a 1981 720 with a Z motor what years will fit my motor...…. Headers? So far it looks like 80 to 85? I think? Just make sure its a Z motor? 

[datzenmike]

Don't waste your time or money. The Z series make ok power just like the L series but they are not a good candidate for adding performance enhancements to it. It's comfortable below 4,500 RPM but struggles above this because of the head design's port location and shape. At these speeds the stock exhaust manifold is more than adequate. Spend the money saved on 1/4" larger exhaust pipes and a turbo muffler, this will do more than a header. If you must, put a header on only after changing to a larger carb and a performance cam when it may actually help.

 

Headers are likely one size fits all but the Z24 engine head sits 3/4" higher than the Z22's head. Thus the Z24 header on a Z22 will likely also sit 3/4" lower under the floor. If there is a specific Z22 header the years used are '81 through Sept '83 when the Z24 was introduced.

[720 King Cab Killer]

HMM Good to know they will fit just sit lower/higher....Interesting Im going stock for sure on my Z24.... stock exhaust . Looks like Im gonna yank one out of a truck down there on 27ave I guess.......I'm kind of dragging my feet being lazy lol. Nother question what kinda of Performance cam could I put in that motor and still keep stock pistons,ect What would you do for performance motor build? And carb?