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kraftor

280zx front coil over caliper facing front or back?

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I have a set of 280ZX strut coilovers and brake calipers on my 510.

After the brake pads wear about 1/2 way the caliper hits the steering arm. It looks like bumpsteer spacers would fix it, but not being lowered, I do not need/want those.

Can I swap the parts around right to left so that the calipers are facing front like I see on many newer cars?

I think mechanically it will work, but the calipers will have opposite stress on pads. Anybody done this or have another recommendation?

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A better question might be do you need some sort of bump steer spacer. If it has coil overs what's the sense of keeping the stock height????  Most likely it's somewhat lowered. Are the steering tie rod ends absolutely level. They should be, and if not, a correct spacer will fix this and probably the caliper rub.

 

As to swapping L to R absolutely you can. Disc brakes work the same even when backing up.

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Krafor, the spacers can be used regardless of ride height. You can measure the ride height and then reset it after installing the spacers. 

 

While you indeed swap the struts side to side, the brake lines on your car now may not be the correct length and or have routing issues. Dependent on what size wheels you have you could also run into clearance problems

 

Swapping the struts from one side to the other seems like a lot of work just to avoid using spacers. I do one of two things to fix it.

 

A.  Use the spacers even if I didn't like the look of them.

B. Just change the pads more often. If you're only having to change them once a year or ever other year it's not a big deal.

 

I'm cheap and lazy so I'd go with option A. Note there is no wrong answer if at the end of the day you're happy with it.

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I am hesitant to use spacers as the car is not lowered and this would increase the angle on the steering. If I want  to lower after adding spacers I will need to buy different springs. the current ones are pretty long and stiff. I have been playing the replace early game (option A), but as I am about to do a full brake job I thought I might do the swap.

I believe I have a set of longer brake lines if I need them. 

Thanks for the advice. I'll update with what I end up doing in a few weeks when it actually happens. Hopefully sooner than later as the pads I have on now squeal like crazy when they get warmed up.

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Doing a brake job will put this off for years. In that time you may get around to lowering the ride height some, add bump steer spacers and the problem goes away.

 

If you have coil overs you can lower by simply adjusting them and keep your current springs.

 

Bump steer spacers are only used to correct steering tie rod end geometry not to allow the calipers to clear the steering knuckles. I guess the thing to do is see perhaps if you do need them. You say you have coil overs so what are they set to? How do you know it's at exact stock height? Take a good look at the steering tie rod ends. If not exactly horizontal and the rods are tilted up ever so slightly at the ends you would benefit from some small spacers. This may also correct your caliper problem.

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It is common practice to switch sides with struts to eliminate the brake interference problem on the cheap . It don't cost nothing and you have them out already.. 

 

 

 

bahda bing,,  bahda boom 

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Good to hear others have done this. Here is a picture of the problem, though it is not touching in this case as these pads are pretty new.

 

zlZD1yd.jpg

 

 

And here is the swapped result. Brake lines are plenty long enough, in fact it is nearly symmetrical to old location or new. I got new rotors while I was at it.

FPAUyDz.jpg

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I used Maxima calipers and rotors on my 710 and heard about this. I've looked and I just can't see how they would ever get near any of the steering. Maybe this is exclusively a 510 design 'problem'.

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I haven't been on for sometime, and saw this post.  I'm sure you figured this out by now, my post is for future members using the search function on the topic.

 

So, just thought I'd add to the thread and my experience with 280ZX strut conversion.  The 280ZX strut assemblies are lower then  the stock 510 struts, and why they are used.  They lower the car without taking up suspension strut travel, car rides lower, but you still have suspension travel, one of the reasons for the upgrade, along with the bigger brakes.  Since the set up is already lower the stock 510, the steering geometry will change, tie rods won't be level, as datzenmike has suggested.  Further, most owners lower some more because of having coil overs, and that, "lowered race look".  On 2 of the 3, of my 510's, I did the 280ZX struts, coil overs, and the 1" bump stop spacer, installed all at the same time, hadn't had any issues with clearances.

 

While its each to his own, I just don't like seeing the front calipers not in a trailing position. You wont have to spend the $ change up the brake line and hoses.  Your steering will be in the position designed to take the loads, level tie rods, an important safety concern at high cornering speeds and bumps.  Just the brake hose and line modification can cost more then the bump stop spacers, and also have the cost of replacing pads more often.  Hope you are driving down the road safely in your dime.

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zlZD1yd.jpg

 

In this photo, you'll have the most extreme articulation of the suspension with the car jacked up and no load on the suspension.  This will give you the smallest angle between the control arm/tie rod end and the strut assembly, putting the tie rod nut and caliper mounting bolt the closest during the suspension travel.  You really need to look at the relation of the two with the tire on the ground and not jacked up.  Looks like you need a 1" bump stop spacer 🤷‍♂️ or new brake pads.

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The tie rod nut doesn't move closer or farther away from the caliper when turning or during suspension travel. The steering knuckle is bolted to the bottom of the strut with the tie rod bolted to the other end of the steering knuckle. 

 

 

 

iu2VvTA.jpg

 

I'm afraid this picture doesn't show anything that helps, but this is my '84 Maxima goon calipers. I did look it over very carefully and could not see anything even remotely close to the steering... and this is a 710 not a 510..

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Doh, guess I'm tired and not seeing straight 😂

I stand corrected on that last comment I made!  Guys just need to run bump stop spacers when lowering their cars as extreme as most do, even if no interference issues.  The car needs to have the correct geometry to be safe and as designed, but each to their own.  We got old from living through doing stupid stuff and risking the possibility bodily injury or death, so can they. 

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I figured as much! 😄

 

Bump steer spacers should be carefully selected and the amount depends on the ride height change.

 

ERZPjuB.jpg

 

What I did was crawl under and set a level in place. As you can see the LCA was now on a slope after lowering. I estimated how much spacer I would need to bring the wheel end down level. I then made 8 home made 1/4" aluminum spacers with the intent to stack them as needed.

 

ULBN6wC.jpg

 

Scrap aluminum, cost only the time to make them. Nothing to look at but no one can see them anyway.

 

XVGLbxe.jpg

 

I figured 1/2" would do and after installing them this turned out to be perfect. As with any ride height change or bump steer adjustment you need to set the toe.

 

I wish to god I had done this long ago. I sawing of the steering wheel over the bump a block from my home that I had got so used to was gone!!! The difference was amazing.

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