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Question About Clutch


Conuck7

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I have a 1979 Datsun EHL 620 Motohome and the clutch is slipping badly.  I have found a clutch kit online at ebay for New Exedy Clutch Kit for Nissan 620, 720, 200SX (Fits: Datsun 720) and was wondering if this is the right package for my truck?  Has anyone had to change the clutch and had success with this kit or one similar?  Because it is a hyd clutch I've been told that it is a pretty tough job by my mechanic and wanted to seek advice from others in this regard.  Based on my research I might have to replace the master cylinder and slave cylinder as well.  Appreciate your advice.

Harold.

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That one is listed as 8 7/8" which is 225mm and what you would need for a 620 from '75 on up. 

 

Your mechanic is looking for more work and more money. There is no reason to believe a hydraulic clutch is harder to work on, or with, nor that anything will need replacing. In fact just two bolts hold the slave to the side of the transmission. Unbolt and tie out of the way and the transmission can be removed and the clutch changed. Put it back on and there is nothing to adjust.... unlike a mechanical linkage clutch. If your master and slave are working and not leaking, they do not need replacing.

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If you know that your clutch master and slave are pretty old and been on there a long time, then it is good practice to put new seals in them. Or, just bleeding the clutch system will put fresh fluid in there and that is better for the seals on its own.

 

When you were driving the truck did the clutch grab well enough for you or did it always seem a bit weak and slipped a little?

 

The non-turbo 280Z and 280ZX used a 225mm clutch as well that will fit. Rock Auto has them for $55 on up. (plus shipping)

 

https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/nissan,1980,280zx,2.8l+l6,1209316,transmission-manual,clutch+kit,1993

 

There is another stronger clutch that can be put into your truck. You will need to find a different flywheel to go along with that one though. It would be the 280ZX turbo clutch and flywheel. 240mm

Any of those clutch kits that say 2+2 are the 240mm turbo flywheel that i'm speaking of. Don't get that kit unless you're planning on changing the flywheel also.

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14 hours ago, datzenmike said:

That one is listed as 8 7/8" which is 225mm and what you would need for a 620 from '75 on up. 

 

Your mechanic is looking for more work and more money. There is no reason to believe a hydraulic clutch is harder to work on, or with, nor that anything will need replacing. In fact just two bolts hold the slave to the side of the transmission. Unbolt and tie out of the way and the transmission can be removed and the clutch changed. Put it back on and there is nothing to adjust.... unlike a mechanical linkage clutch. If your master and slave are working and not leaking, they do not need replacing.

I often wonder if something was lost in translation. What did the mechanic actually say? Was it totally innocent and the OP heard something else? Or was the mechanic really that bad?

 

Certain people out there do not, nor ever will, trust mechanics, and their brains are pre-loaded with mechanic translation software that doesn't always reflect the actual intent or disposition of the mechanic. My brother is a solid case in point. He used to call me to have me coach him on what to say to his mechanic. I would tell him he's being crazy and he should just talk to the mechanic like a normal human being.

 

So back to the clutch...

 

Assuming the clutch has many thousands of miles on it, it would be safe to replace it with a regular old replacement clutch of the same model/variety.

 

As per the hydraulics, if they are leaking, or show signs of weepage, then they should at a minimum, be rebuilt. This is easy enough to diagnose. Sometimes a simple disassembly and cleaning of the cylinders is all that's needed. They get dirty over time and cleaning out the junk may extend the life substantially. Even if they need total replacement, we're talking what? Another $400 or $500 for parts and labor? That may be good insurance, if you can stomach the cost.

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Mechanics aren't in business to not make a living. Many take advantage of the ignorant, gullible or helpless just like lawyers and undertakers. If you are a mechanic think of what I just said when totaling up your next bill, without rationalizing.

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Yes, if you can't do it, you need to trust those that do. These are vehicles that are 30-50 years old and no one teaches carburetor theory, how to rebuild them, read plugs or gap points. They rely on computer tests or diagnostic ports. There is a better than excellent chance that you know more about your Datsun that the guy you're paying $50 an hour to learn how to fix it! The best way is to know what is wrong and what is needed. No one goes into an operation without some research.

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This might or might not be part of what he was after, but the O.P. might want to consider, if he hasn't made his choice, whether an "upgraded" clutch is really desirable.  

When I was a lot younger, I put roadster clutches in my 510 wagons, but why?  I never raced them. But I had read that the roadster clutch was "better,"  and didn't think it out.  My engines were rebuilt to be a bit more efficient, and made a bit more power, but the factory clutch would still have been fine. The factory clutch worked fine for anyone who wasn't into "street performance" (again why would one want a street performance station wagon?}.  Different strokes, I guess, but today there's a real good reason to avoid racier clutches and their stronger springs, and that is the endless traffic-crawls one must endure in our over-populated country.  O.P., do you really want to constantly modulate a high-pressure clutch pedal while in a herd of cars stopping and starting for miles at a time?

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A stock clutch will do what you need. That's all we use in the race truck.  I'd suspect wear and a glazed flywheel are your issues.  Fix the problems rather than looking for new ways to solve one that doesn't exist.  

 

I am a proponent for replacing the hydraulics, or at least inspecting them on a regular basis.  The slave cylinder is a total of 7 components and can be taken apart in well under 1 minute.  Housing, bleeder screw, plunger, seal, spring, pushrod, and rubber boot.  The color of the fluid and condition of the internal seal will tell you if there's likely an issue with the master cylinder as well.  If it looks good, reinstall.  If not, replace both along with the hose.  The hardest part is bleeding the system, and this one is very easy to bleed.  

 

I'd also guess your mechanic would like to supply the parts so he can offer a warranty on them?  He may have meant that the job is not a simple one - meaning there's a significant amount of labor time involved.  Most clutches have been hydraulic for the last 60+ years, so I'd suggest maybe you get a second opinion/quote from another shop, if that's really how the conversation went?  

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My slave just failed after over 40+ years. Time was short, I couldn't get the much preferred rebuild kit and had to settle for a re-manufactured one. I connected the hose with the bleeder open and the hydraulic fluid ran down by gravity and bled itself. They are often that simple to change.

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