pwrcat4000 Posted June 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2018 Run 50/50 anti freeze and distilled water. I will but it gets pricey until I get this figured out, not running it for the long term, plus there is some residual green stuff still in there. Forgot to pull the stat this morning like I told you guys I would, it is out now. I have been fiddling with air fuel but i am pretty sure that is just for idle. I am carrying the timing light with me. I am not sure the fan is pulling very well though the rad. I set a walmart box fan in from of the dam thing and it got cooler, maybe I need to get the fan deeper in the shroud or the shroud further in to the engine bay. Stat is out though as I am typing it is idling in the yard a lot warmer today here in puckerbrush KS. So if it stays cool with the stat out then what does that mean I have tested the stat on the stove it is doing what it is supposed to do? 1 Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted June 26, 2018 Report Share Posted June 26, 2018 When u tested the stat on the stove, at what degree did it open up? If its lets say 160, should open at around 170 or lower. 1 Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted June 26, 2018 Report Share Posted June 26, 2018 If it stays cool w out stat then nothing is blocking the flow of coolant. This is assuming, you r driving at similar condition when it was overheating. Have you checked your spark plugs, what color? Too lean can cause engine to run hot. 1 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 When u tested the stat on the stove, at what degree did it open up? If its lets say 160, should open at around 170 or lower. I tested it on the stove started to open at 179 full open at 188 closed at 174 If it stays cool w out stat then nothing is blocking the flow of coolant. This is assuming, you r driving at similar condition when it was overheating. Have you checked your spark plugs, what color? Too lean can cause engine to run hot. Unfortunately it did the same thing just took longer to do it plugs are NGK BPR6ES 7131 Kind of wish I had not f'ed with the idle it stuttered and died a couple of times today. I will get it right again following datzenmikes post here http://community.ratsun.net/topic/43745-how-to-adjust-hitachi-carb/ 1 Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 So what color was your plugs? 1 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted June 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 So what color was your plugs? sorry i did not understand what you meant just like they are in the engine #1 is on the right #4 is on the left FYI the terminal nut connection was a little loose on the top of #1 Here are individual pictures of all the plugs 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 27, 2018 Report Share Posted June 27, 2018 One's a little oily and not staying clean. 1 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted June 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 I opened the gap on 1 from 30 to 40 thousands see if it cleans it up tonigh. 103 here today still not "overheating" but it is still running hot 1/2 way between the line and the red, at least with the thermostat out when I turn it off and start it again in the valves don't chatter 1 Quote Link to comment
racerx Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 Can't see them that well but are they too whitish 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 The color could be because of running hot, or running a litlle lean, or running a little advanced. The oil soaked one might need an anti fouler for that hole. https://www.autozone.com/ignition-tune-up-and-routine-maintenance/spark-plug-non-fouler?filterByKeyWord=non+fouler&fromString=search&isIgnoreVehicle=false&model=Non Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted June 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 datzenmike This is number one after driving around all day and the gap change racerx I agree it looks to be running lean so what do you do to the stock Hitachi carb to fatten it up? I could be also that it is just running hot and that is why they look that way like Charlie69 said 1 Quote Link to comment
mainer311 Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 It looks like #1 may be intermittently misfiring, causing a richer condition than the rest of the plugs, and that's why its a bit more sooty. Gapping it wider would make it worse. Keep the gap around .030 for points and .040 for EI/Matchbox. You said the boot on plug #1 felt loose, and maybe it is. Could also be the wire, or the contact in the dizzy cap. The other 3 plugs look slightly lean, but not horrible. They should all look like chocolate milk. The white crusty stuff on the end is just deposits. The only thing you can do to richen mixture on a Hitachi is to re-jet it. The mixture screw is only for idle. In a pinch, you could drive around with the choke slightly pulled if you have a manual choke. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted June 28, 2018 Report Share Posted June 28, 2018 Swap #1 wire with #2 and see if the plug color changes. Or just replace #1 wire. Check the distributor cap for cracks or carbon tracking. If this is from a miss fire it should move to #2. If #1 has a worn valve guide or worn rings not much will change. A compression test might show #1 lower than the others. 1 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted June 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 29, 2018 Swap #1 wire with #2 and see if the plug color changes. Or just replace #1 wire. Check the distributor cap for cracks or carbon tracking. If this is from a miss fire it should move to #2. If #1 has a worn valve guide or worn rings not much will change. A compression test might show #1 lower than the others. I think I did a compression test prior to installing it. I don't remember the numbers specifically but they were all about the same. I do have my other L20B that i burned down the head on so I could have it rebuilt. Since the heat symptoms were the same for both motors and the L16 I think it has to be the rad I found an aluminum one I can afford on ebay for 117.00. So when I have the truck back from the alignment shop I will most likely buy it. I think I am going to go with 2 row so that i have the room for a condenser later on I really want to get A/C in the truck, as much as I am driving it, or just sell the 521 and the 620 and the 3 motors and 3 trans I have. and buy a truck something with 4 doors or an extended cab and air. But as much as I complain about the 521 I am probably too bonded to it now to do any of that. 1 Quote Link to comment
pwrcat4000 Posted July 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2018 I though I would do an update. I drove around without the stat for a while and my heat problems seemed to lessen. It is still running about half way between the mark and the red, after mixed driving. It is no longer builing any more heat on the highway in fact it usually cools down a tiny amount. I am still just running the distilled water with just a little bit of antifreeze that was in the block. Still considering a new Radiator or maybe switch to electric fans. I was at the parts store the other day getting the oil change stuff for my Mitsu and got a Mr Gasket 160 High flow stat. so that is in the truck now. I will post any other things I do. Quote Link to comment
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