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pwrcat4000

Pinging under power and drive train Q's

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Just the top and bottom as far as I know.

OEM was brass tanks and copper core.

 

Modine was the best after Market radiator for long time then they went to Mexico for manufacturing and still produced a quality after market raditor.

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Charlie

I thought Modine went bankrupt.

I used to buy the Modines when sold thru JCWhitney. Then I couldn't get anymore.

 

The Chinese clones will pass as OK and do cool. Just hope they don't leak.  They all need spacers to fit right.

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Here is a timeline of Modine click on history at the bottom of the page.

 

http://www.modine.com/web/en/history.htm#.Wx_N54plDSc

 

Modine closed 2 US manufacturing plants and opened their manufacturing plant in Mexico in 2006.

 

https://www.manufacturing.net/news/2006/07/modine-shutting-two-us-plants-opening-another-mexico

 

I believe that Modine is producing more HVAC/Heater commersial and residential than automotive parts.

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The fan belt only turns the water pump. The clutch fan is fluid coupled and will turn by hand without loosening the belt. It should have firm resistance to turning and you should not be able to spin it. If loose or easy to turn it won't move enough air through the rad.

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Mike is correct on the clutch fan. I wrote my comment up wrong.

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Well haven't had time to do anything have been going to my son's awesome robotics camp apparently he is building The Terminator Skynet is real and his Creator is my son. But in the immortal words of The Terminator I'll be back to see if I can get this junky old ratty Datsun where I want it found a guy who would rebuild a head for under 400 bucks so at least if I do meltdown the head and I have a way to fix it

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OK, I got inspired after my last post and pulled the stat it is a Motorad 180F.  I tested it in hot water on the stove it started to open at 185 and was fully opened at 197 it started closing at 182 and closed completely at 175.
I think I am going to buy another one and test it on the stove, also i yanked the jiggle valve. the stat is off center does it mater where it is clocked?

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Clocking doesn't matter, but, in the event it changes anything, I would think having it offset closer to the head would make it open sooner. I run a 160 in my roadster, and it takes a while to warm up, but it's not as hot here in New England (typically) as where you are. Granted, they say the high on Monday is 94.

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OK, I got inspired after my last post and pulled the stat it is a Motorad 180F. I tested it in hot water on the stove it started to open at 185 and was fully opened at 197 it started closing at 182 and closed completely at 175.

I think I am going to buy another one and test it on the stove, also i yanked the jiggle valve. the stat is off center does it mater where it is clocked?

..sounds about right. As I said before, drive the car around w out stat and if it overheats then its something else blocking.
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Replaced the thermostat with a 180 high flow Israeli made, Murray Ultrastat MU55358. I tested it on the stove opened at 179 full open at 188 closed at 174 (water temp)

I drilled a 1/8 inch hole in it and put it in.

My son and I took it for a spin.

Still building heat at highway speeds after about 10 minutes 60-70 mph its up against the red. Pulled it in to the yard and took of the radiator cap
(I know it is incredibly dangerous and stupid and you might get 3rd degree burns yada yada)
Anyway, that is 207 F water temp measured in the fill neck of the radiator.
Question
I am running the L20B fan with no shroud
it has a fan clutch that spins freely at cold,  and at normal operating temp, there seems to be no difference in the fan speed even if I rev up the truck 
In my big Pontiac V-8's the clutch stiffens up as it gets hot, I can only assume this works the same way in the Datsun.  So it is bad?

I have still have my solid L16 fan on a brand new water pump.  I used it on my last L20B that I valve seats out of thehead, if I used that I could use my stock shroud too. What do you all think?
Come to think of it I had the same problem with that motor building heat at highway speed so that has me thinking radiator again.
If you have a recommendation on a 3 row drop a link for it because, after watching you tube and reading it seems like any radiator that I can afford are total crap.

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Change out pump/fan clutch and put a shroud on it.  The fan clutches have hydrualic oil in them and yours has possibly leaked out.

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Pwrcat, I asked 2x to run it w out stat? Similar shit that happened to me, a combo of cheap ass stant stat that would open at 195, supposed to open at around 180, then partly clogged radiator. I dont have a shroud, no elect. Fan, no clutch fan, been running with a better stat and does not overheat and been fairly hot in the bay area. Stock L18.

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I also left the jiggly valve alone and did not drill any holes is t stat. If everything is working good U should not have to drill holes or take out the jiggly valve, its main purpose is to bleed out any air.

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Once you get up to speed I dont think it matters all the much about the shroud and fan working or not.. If fans go bad they usualy lock up which make it a l16 solid fan anyways right. If Im not mistaken..

 

If you not using water then I have to say change the stat. I would have put a 160 in there to just try out but I will assume you motor is running hot and the stat will open at that temp anyways making it a open stat and motor still is hot. Maybe there is a slight break in the head gasket or hole somwhere wear hot gases going into the cooling system????

But I think you said this is a new Head gasket?

 

I read somewhere soemone tried that CLR stuff ands stuck it in the rad to clean it out. That might help. Dont help either if your in total hot weather here to help figure this out.  Since you live in a Hot area I would get  3 core anyways

 

 

PS buy a jar of antiseize compound and use it on the bolts and nuts so they shit dont rust ez to get out later. Dont be cheap thats a coool Ratsun you have there.

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POST #79

 

Your fan should be firm to turn not spin easily with your finger. The clutch is fluid coupled just like a torque converter. The silicon oil can leak out. In a pinch you can split apart and refill with engine oil or grease but it may move too much air and sound like a jet taking off.

 

I put my 710 rad front down with the rad cap on and put a full container of CLR in it and topped up with water. It fizzed slightly. I couldn't get back to it for 3 days. Emptied it out and rinsed and put back in. Stuff won't hurt copper of solder. My water is very soft but inland water will contain dissolved minerals that will concentrate in a rad and form scale, just like the inside of a kettle. Always top up with distilled water.

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Pwrcat, I asked 2x to run it w out stat? Similar shit that happened to me, a combo of cheap ass stant stat that would open at 195, supposed to open at around 180, then partly clogged radiator. I dont have a shroud, no elect. Fan, no clutch fan, been running with a better stat and does not overheat and been fairly hot in the bay area. Stock L18.

Sorry racerx I though I addressed it, in a post it is a good suggestion, I am going on very little sleep this week.

Running with the stat out, it still builds heat just takes longer to do it,  it also cools down faster at idle than with the stat in, I assume due to less restriction of flow. 

I think we can rule out the thermostat for now.

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Maybe there is a slight break in the head gasket or hole somewhere wear hot gases going into the cooling system????

But I think you said this is a new Head gasket?

No I have not gone in to this motor, I did the other l20B, I hope your wrong but I fear you might be right the only thing is 2 different motors same symptoms.

 

I read somewhere someone tried that CLR stuff ands stuck it in the rad to clean it out. That might help. Don't help either if your in total hot weather here to help figure this out.  Since you live in a Hot area I would get  3 core anyways.

 

I want to but can't seem to find one, that someone has said "it's a piece of shit" don't buy it buy a better one then they never say what the better one is.or if they do it is well over $200.

 

 

PS buy a jar of anti seize compound and use it on the bolts and nuts so they shit don't rust ez to get out later. Don't be cheap that's a coool Ratsun you have there.

 

you got it have that from my Pontiac builds.

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POST #79

 

Your fan should be firm to turn not spin easily with your finger. The clutch is fluid coupled just like a torque converter. The silicon oil can leak out. In a pinch you can split apart and refill with engine oil or grease but it may move too much air and sound like a jet taking off. or a 1978 trans am with a 454 fan clutch on it LOL

 

Yes I am convinced the clutch is defiantly toast, what would you do next?

1. put the L16 pump fan shroud on 

2. buy a new fan clutch put it on

 

 

I put my 710 rad front down with the rad cap on and put a full container of CLR in it and topped up with water. It fizzed slightly. I couldn't get back to it for 3 days. Emptied it out and rinsed and put back in. Stuff won't hurt copper of solder. My water is very soft but inland water will contain dissolved minerals that will concentrate in a rad and form scale, just like the inside of a kettle. Always top up with distilled water.

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Didn't u say u had the radiator re cored? Is it a 2 or 3 core?

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Didn't u say u had the radiator re cored? Is it a 2 or 3 core?

I had ultrasonic cleaning and repair right after I bout the truck.

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As I mentioned, a thermostat sets the lowest engine running temp. If 180F it should start to open at 180. It should be full open in about 8 degrees or so. If you have a good running cooling system you should be able to drive through Death Valley with a 185 F thermostat. You need a large conducting surface like a 3 core rad free of non conducting and clogging scale and lots of air flow through it.

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I had ultrasonic cleaning and repair right after I bout the truck.

..if its a 2 core, try 3 core.
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Racerx

It is the stock 521 radiator

 

Mike I think I'm going to try your CLR treatment first, see if that helps any if not. I need to get a 3 core.

I need recommendations of which three core you guys would buy.

Remember I don't have a pile of gold in the bed of the truck. lol

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Kansas shouldn't be hot enough for needing a three core rad.

 

Try the CLR treatment. It will dissolve hard water scale. Scale is dissolved minerals in ordinary water. Rads evaporate water and need to be topped up... minerals go in and simply concentrate. They collect and stick to the inside of the rad. Might not hurt to use a commercial block flush too. 

 

If you are inland and get your water from a well, river or a lake it's probably hard water. Mine is piped 7-8 miles from a mountain lake fed by snow melt water. Always top up with distilled water.

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