Charlie69 Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 You can not beat the stock 720 electric fuel pump. With the stock fuel system the Weber bolts on connect the fuel line, linckage, and the choke wire, fire it up adjust the idle and drive the shit out of it. Why go to the expense of buying and after market fuel pump and then the expense of an after market pressure regulator. Remember "Chrome won't get you home"! 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 10, 2018 Report Share Posted June 10, 2018 Here is a link to more Pierce manifolds videos http://community.ratsun.net/topic/61446-j13-engine-after-market-parts-and-all-other-520-521-cross-over-parts-with-mg-also/page-2?do=findComment&comment=1342518 1 Quote Link to comment
YoJimbo Posted June 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2018 Yesterday's action. Found the passenger side window rail thingamajig partially decomposed into rusty ratty heap inside the door panel. If I hadn't already investigated the driver side months ago I would not have been surprised to find real rat carcass. Carcass Rat, good name for a band. Here's the driver side. Tried to get that window rail running with some aluminum scrap found in the garage. That ain't workin at all right now heheheh 1 Quote Link to comment
YoJimbo Posted June 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2018 One section of the driver side rail rotted through. So I was attempting to bridge the gap with a bit of scrap laying around. No luck so far finding replacements on this island. 1 Quote Link to comment
YoJimbo Posted June 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2018 Lockleaf and Charlie, thanks for your answers. Gravity feed keeps pumps happier on the farm also, why wouldn't that apply to the truck's fuel pump? Doh :hairy: ! Good reminder, basic physics and shit still apply, that's me overthinking it. Can't beat the stock electric pump, hell yeah! That's great to hear. Extra motivated to swap in the weber now. 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 16, 2018 Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 If you have any questions on installing your Weber please ask. It is easier than you think. 2 Quote Link to comment
DrvnDrvr Posted June 16, 2018 Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 Those window guides come up on Ebay from time to time. Make sure you get ones for a 86 720 and not a 86 D21 Hardbody. That's the changeover year. Quote Link to comment
YoJimbo Posted June 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 If you have any questions on installing your Weber please ask. It is easier than you think. Thanks, all the crew here on ratsun has been very helpful. It is much appreciated. Somehow I got it stuck in my head that the stock pump psi was too high for the weber and that led me to think a new pump and psi regulator were needed to run it properly. Real glad that is not the case. Had a good long laugh at myself this morning after learning this. Waiting for brother to get home next week from trip to Mexico. Want to save the carb swap action for when he is around so we can both have fun getting our hands dirty with it. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 16, 2018 Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 The pump is perfect as long as you connect the fuel on the Weber just like it is on the stock carb, I had to tweak the steel line a little to keep the rubber fuel line from trying to kink. The Blue wire is for the electric choke and if you run a fuel cut solenoid you will use the Red wire. When you order your carb kit I would suugest you order the fuel cut solenoid at the same time. It is about $20. Be sure and use a lite return spring to bring the throttle back to idle. 2 Quote Link to comment
DrvnDrvr Posted June 16, 2018 Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 That is exactly how my Weber is set up. Runs great. I upgraded the throttle plate bushings to sealed bearings. Wire colors vary on my 720. Light return spring is to insure baseline idle. Spring pic 2 Quote Link to comment
YoJimbo Posted June 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 How 'bout a sloppy 3 in the morning 7-11 sandwich? Caaan, easy, she go! :thumbup: '83 720 tacho, direct plug in, all good first try, lucky dog. Cracking a cold one to ya DrvnDrvr, cheers! New odo gear also works, cheers Drvn :thumbup: 2 Quote Link to comment
YoJimbo Posted June 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 Daaaaaaaaang, look at dat blue block polished rocker shining chrome bay! Those pics will help the 7-11 triple barrel carb sandwich evolve into a working dgev, gotta crack another one to ya Drvn, cheers! 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 16, 2018 Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 On the 85 86 720 with the electronic feed back carb, 6 wire round plug you used the color code I posted above. Also take the Throttle palte linkage off your stock carb and istall on your Weber. Be sure to not over tighten the nut and lock the nut down after checking that the nut is not too tight. My 86 720 KC 1 Quote Link to comment
YoJimbo Posted June 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 Charlie, Thanks for the detailed insight on the fuel and wiring set up. Looking up that idle cut solenoid on ebay that you linked awhile back in a post about a fuel pressure regulator question (http://community.ratsun.net/topic/69746-fuel-pressure-regulator-questions/). 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 16, 2018 Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 Order from Pierce Manifolds to be sure you get a real Weber and Weber parts. Might not be the cheapest but you will not get a Chinese knock off! Quote Link to comment
YoJimbo Posted June 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 Aye aye captain! Spanish and italian made webers only! Moto benne, muy bien. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 16, 2018 Report Share Posted June 16, 2018 Webers are no longer made in Italy just Spain. 1 Quote Link to comment
YoJimbo Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Full day off from work and finally getting deeper into the weber swap! 1 Quote Link to comment
YoJimbo Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Got the hitachi off! Took a bit of headbanging and a safety meeting or two B) 1 Quote Link to comment
YoJimbo Posted June 22, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Ran into a little bit of a speed bump... The barb fitting to replace the anti-backfire valve included in the redline conversion kit barely threads in... According to the installation instructions the canister purge hose is supposed to connect to this barb fitting. Really don't want to use a threaded fitting that doesn't thread in past one thread. Am i being overly cautious with this fitting? Should I just tighten it snug attach canister purge hose and call it good? Is there an alternative location to attach the can purge hose safely and effectively? Definitely not the same threading... Any help or insight is appreciated. 1 Quote Link to comment
DrvnDrvr Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Why not just not use the kit's fitting? The intake manifold has to be leakfree for your engine to run good. All the emission stuff has been removed on my engine 1 Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted June 22, 2018 Report Share Posted June 22, 2018 Ran into a little bit of a speed bump... The barb fitting to replace the anti-backfire valve included in the redline conversion kit barely threads in... According to the installation instructions the canister purge hose is supposed to connect to this barb fitting. Really don't want to use a threaded fitting that doesn't thread in past one thread. Am i being overly cautious with this fitting? Should I just tighten it snug attach canister purge hose and call it good? Is there an alternative location to attach the can purge hose safely and effectively? Definitely not the same threading... Any help or insight is appreciated. That house Barb is probably a 1/4 npt.... I know the L series motors have some bspt fittings ... very similar... the npt fitting would only screw in about 1 turn also... I don't know if that is actually the case with your intake but it seems like it... You can actually run a 1/4 npt tap into a 1/4 bspt to make it fit.. 2 Quote Link to comment
YoJimbo Posted June 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 Got a bit farther on the install. New studs in, adapter plate fits well. Test fit the new carb late last night after a bit of wiggling and bending the steel fuel line (thanks for the tip Charlie) Been having a lot of fun doing this with my brother and dad. Brother brought some mezcal autentico back home so that's been helping to keep this project fun :thumbup:. This project is brand stanking new to us, all the help on here has been keeping us from getting too frustrated. Thanks fellas :thumbup: DrvnDrvr: Good to know the intake manifold needs to be leak free, that makes a lot of sense! No wonder everything is sealed up, hehehehe (no doubt there will be more doh! moments as I continue on this). The purpose of the canister purge hose is a mystery to me so I'm going to research it a bit more before deciding how exactly to proceed. The pics you've shared have been real helpful and as we get farther into this I can tell we'll be looking at them even more! Dad and brother are on a mission to town, they are on the hunt for a threaded something that will fit the hole left by the anti backfire thing. Hopefully they track down some beer and get our mountain bike fixed also! Hehehehehe, i digress.... Crashtd420: Seems like this must be a 1/4" bspt vs 1/4" npt situation. If all else fails we might be tapping the hole. While the crew is on the mission to town I'm learning how to make this throttle linkage work.... 1 Quote Link to comment
YoJimbo Posted June 23, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 After some bending and filing, We are linked up! Any excuse to celebrate a small victory with some beer 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted June 23, 2018 Report Share Posted June 23, 2018 So let me understand this. It takes 3 people, adults I think, ad 1 bottle mezcal autentico and an hour Weber install takes 3 days and a 24 pack of beer!!! LOL Looking good. 2 Quote Link to comment
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