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beev

Clutch and Flywheel Combo

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Hello Again,

 

There are quite a few variations on this topic, however they are mostly directed to getting a new clutch. I am actually starting from scratch and don't have a clutch or flywheel. I am looking for some recommendations that will not break the bank. I would like to try and keep the combo below $700 USD, well below if possible but my criteria might make it more expensive. I have a '69 510 and am putting an L20b engine in it. I don't drive very often but would mostly be using it for trips and daily driving. I will occasionally race. I like lightened flywheels and understand the drawback of those. I have been looking at the 200mm options as it seems like if starting from scratch you might as well go there. Can you please recommend a complete setup and if possible place to purchase them from. To make it somewhat more difficult I am up in Canada. I have been looking through Summit Racing, Rock Auto, DP racing, and Datsun Parts, they seem to be the correct price however I have found so many options that it is overwhelming and am now frozen trying to figure out what goes with what...

 

Thanks for your advice.

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Well the 6 bolt from any L or Z series engines will fit and they range from 200mm to 225mm to 240mm for trucks and 29 down to 21 pounds stock. All can be lightened safely to 12-15 pounds. I don't know what your limits on 'lightened' are. The 240mm will allow a 280zx turbo 550 kg  or 300zx turbo 600Kg clamping force pressure plates and clutch disc. I can't see needing anything near that for a 100 hp L20B. All probably still available from Nissan. There are after market PPs but who knows how they compare to the Nissan ones they don't advertise the clamping forces.

 

Flywheel_spec.jpg

Specifications for machining L series flywheels. This spec can be adapted to 4 & 6 cyl fly wheels. It is suggested that the portion contacted by the disc be increased to min 13mm for street use.

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Thanks. I don't have a totally stock L20B but again not a huge amount of power. What are you thought on getting a stock flywheel and lightening it vs buying something non-stock that can just be bolted up. Is there a combo of clutch and flywheel that people really like and suits my needs? 12 -15 pounds is plenty "lightened" for me. If I have a line on a 200mm stock flywheel is it should I just get a roadster clutch? Is the 220mm a better option for finding parts in the future? Again any suggested combos and why would be appreciated. I know it is a matter of opinion and experience.  

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My flywheel weighs 7 lbs.....

It's all about what you get used to.

 

But if you get down to 15-ish, you will notice a big improvement.

 

Don't buy a damn multi-piece aluminum flywheel.

Every single used one I've come across has issues with the disk or ring gear coming loose, or screws pulling out.

This is because aluminum expands way more than steel, and is constantly trying to destroy the integrity of the flywheel. 

 

"But it's easy to change the wear plate".

Bull !

You take one, change the steel wear plate, they never lay flat again, so you still have to have it surfaced, just like a solid, all steel/iron flywheel.

 

Nothing wrong with machining the stock one down.

 

And no matter which way you go, have it balanced with the pressure plate you go with. They must be done together, and will come back marked, so that you can get them back together the same way they were balanced.

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You can buy a 200mmFidanza  and get a Daiken 600KG Roadster from a Roadster place.  use your 510 T/O bearing and Collar.

datsunparts.com

 

 

The Nissan Roadster Pressureplates I think are NLA as those were 650KG.

 

I have a 5 bolt L18 stock cast  that was lighten to like 11pounds but never ran it as soempeople say they can crack and explode. So I chickened out and never used it.. One say they need to be balance also as a unit with the clutch

 

 

Personally I wouldnt even worry about it. If you got just above stock HP rating anyways.

 

Some people light heavier so they can dump the clutch and do burnouts

 

 

One can go to a 620 set and use a 225mm Aluminum Fidanza from a 610 ans use the 620 bearing and T/O collar and ( I alwasy use the 510 clutch folf and slave as its adjustable) s one needs to know wht your doing. the 225has more surfave and Daiken has a Stage 1 kit with like 700KG or 750 which is overkill I would think.

 

G DUAX and other know their stuff I just dont think its needed for the average dual carbed mild car motor

 

 

My Experience I got a usedAlum flywheel for $100 then had to get a new center done which was another $100 Im sure and new ring gear. All in all I couldnt tell if it really made my l16 anyfaster.

 

 

Ezest is go with the one above daiken NSC581 and run the stock flywheel as its the cheapest to get buy. Just my opinion

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Flywheels are balanced as a separate unit. Pressure plates and discs also during manufacture. For stock applications you can mix and match them without problems.  I think old GMs had a paint mark on the flywheels where they were balanced but there was always a heavy side. Pressure plates the same but marked as light side. You match the heavy and light on the two to help cancel them out. This was a long time ago. 

 

If you were racing at high RPM probably wouldn't hurt to balance them together otherwise waste of time.

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Some people light heavier so they can dump the clutch and do burnouts

 

I can light my tires up just fine with my 7lb flywheel  :)

Even with 1 cylinder with very low cranking compression, and one with ZERO cranking compression  :(

(damn, need to find another L18 block damn soon - still want to take the one I was building, and throw it through the front window of the machine shop that screwed it up)

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G

Shit I gave away a L18 block. Got another 2 still sitting.

 

Yeah Beev has only 4 post and my time in the local scene in Seattle is I just give the basic best cheapes way for one to improve this guys options so he can get it done on his own.

I helped to many guys in my early days giving parts/going to their house only for them to never do anything with them or they sell it.

If he is on here for 5 years maybe( a commitment)then  I see telling him of the untimate clutch kit.

But a L20 with mild cam and carbs a Roadtser set up should work more than enuff . Lighten or stock flywheel

 

I run into people still on there project from 5 yrs ago.Just a L  motor.

510s and early Datsun are pretty simple !!!!!!!!!!

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Even my highest horsepower L powered 510, with 210 hp and 205 torque, used a roadster clutch. I did have a solid clutch disc in it, but didn't really need it at all.

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Thanks for the feedback. In the triangle of fast, cheap, and good I am going with fast and good. I just imported the car to Canada and have 45 days to get it running for an inspection by transport Canada. 

 

I am for sure new to the forum and the last time I had a 510 was back in 2006- 2007. I did an engine rebuild for that but everything else was untouched. I have a bit of a technical background and worked as a co-op in a machine shop for 8 months. The hard part is sorting through the details of this goes with that and oh if you are doing this you should do that too. I am going to build something nice and not take shortcuts. I am happy to spend extra money for longevity and quality but if functionally it doesn't make sense then no reason to throw money out the door.

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I hate to sound cheap, but the clutch is not huge on my list of concerns. If it does its job, then it's fine with me.

 

Most Datsuns don't need a performance clutch.

 

I'd rather spend the saved money on a distributor recurve or a nice header.

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I'll chime in; granted my car is A-series powered but this may be relative. With the romping stomping 99whp motor I used a standard disk with a 550kg pressure plate. The flywheel was lightened to 14lbs versus the standard 22lb unit, not as zippy as 7lb flywheel but a nice compromise between stock and race. As mine is only run on a race track the motor spends most of its time between 5000 and 8000 rpm. I try to mark the pressure plate before pulling it off the flywheel but I know that more than once it went on differently than it came off. In 26 years of racing the car I've never had an issue.......I will assume L series stuff is just as sturdy.

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I have 2 Fidanza FW's, 229501 for a Skyline R33 2.5L 93-98.  The other one, NIS3-6621 143P that I've had in my 510 2dr btw '89 KA24 engine & stock KA 5 speed.  Both of these are 240MM.  The 229501 has a new friction disc on it, but I can't find a decent street clutch set for it.  Most of the cheapest ones are in the $500 to $600 price range & go up to over $1500 for racing clutches.  I would like to use a clutch set for around $250 or less.

 

I've also come up dry for a new clutch set for the NIS3-6621 143P in that price range, any ideas?  This is the FW I'm going to have to use.

 

I'm going to sell the 229501 because there seems to be only racing high $$ clutches available for it.  Someone with an R33 may find it good for them.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

Dean

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Get the 240mm for the D21 Hardbody or the 300zx.

 

D21

PP..... 30210-56G00 Japan made

Disc...30100-86G01 "   "

 

300zx

PP........ 30210- P9600

Disc..... 30100-21P00

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Thanks Mike, I'm using the fiber disc from the D21 assembly but the PP is way bigger in diameter than either FW.

 

Dean

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Unless you're building massive boost or racing the car, you almost never need the 240mm clutch. Even the most powerful 510 I ever owned had a roadster clutch in it, which replaced the twin disc Tilton clutch and flywheel. My thought is that I'd like to keep the diameter of the rotating mass as small as possible.

 

I have had custom discs made before, with various friction materials, with or without spring loaded centers. There are custom clutch shops that will make any disc you want.

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