Lil red/lil b**ch

[datzenmike]

This is the 720 Z series 5 speed??

 

The nose of the input shaft should just be entering the pilot bushing.

 

 Did you replace the pilot bushing? Probably a good idea as they are cheap and easy to do.

[kelowg]

Fyi,fond CHEAP source for fuel pumps. 86 ford ranger in-line pump. 30-60.00 on ebay and the like,great for spare emergency pump.

Walbro works good,louder when hot out tho. 

[tgaydos]

On 11/9/2018 at 5:51 AM, datzenmike said:

This is the 720 Z series 5 speed??

 

The nose of the input shaft should just be entering the pilot bushing.

 

 Did you replace the pilot bushing? Probably a good idea as they are cheap and easy to do.

It is a 5 speed that came out of the truck I did replace the pilot bussing, clutch and flywheel. I'm going to end up pulling the motor and mate them together then stuff the whole thing in. 

[bottomwatcher]

if you are pulling the motor and bolting the trans go ahead and mount the starter and get the motor running before you put it back in. This makes it so much easier to troubleshoot than when it is in the truck. Believe me you will have troubleshooting and it is a lot easier to deal with when you can see and reach everything. Due to intake manifold size everything is a little harder to reach than the Naps z setup.

[tgaydos]

motor and trans went in today, turns out i forgot to check if there was an old pilot bushing and there was one hence the reason i couldn't get the trans with the new bushing in. tomorrow i'll try and start on the wiring before work at 4 hopefully i'll get a good chunk of it done as it's only 6 wires. then after that will be a fuel cell (maybe a keg from my work) ?. next time the truck has to move it'll be under it's own power.  

[tgaydos]

On 12/2/2018 at 5:43 PM, bottomwatcher said:

if you are pulling the motor and bolting the trans go ahead and mount the starter and get the motor running before you put it back in. This makes it so much easier to troubleshoot than when it is in the truck. Believe me you will have troubleshooting and it is a lot easier to deal with when you can see and reach everything. Due to intake manifold size everything is a little harder to reach than the Naps z setup.

I'm using a 240 intake so there's plenty of room where as the truck intake i can see being a pita. 

[bottomwatcher]

I have the 240sx manifold also. It looks small now but once put the intake tube, MAF sensor, air filter, power steering reservoir  things get a little tight. Keep us posted on the wiring. Only 6 wires is a little misleading keep track of how many hours you have into the wiring part of the swap. Good luck! 

[tgaydos]

2 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

I have the 240sx manifold also. It looks small now but once put the intake tube, MAF sensor, air filter, power steering reservoir  things get a little tight. Keep us posted on the wiring. Only 6 wires is a little misleading keep track of how many hours you have into the wiring part of the swap. Good luck! 

i'm going to PS delete so that's one less thing to worry about. i'm hoping I'll be able to hear it run this week sometime around wednesday or so. i've been in talk with a guy who's done the swap before and with the wiring box from icehouse it really isn't too bad for wiring, because i kept the 720 harness for all the normal lights and functions. i may be over simplifying it but it really does seem like that's all, we'll see.

[tgaydos]

2 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

I have the 240sx manifold also. It looks small now but once put the intake tube, MAF sensor, air filter, power steering reservoir  things get a little tight. Keep us posted on the wiring. Only 6 wires is a little misleading keep track of how many hours you have into the wiring part of the swap. Good luck! 

do you happen to know the size/thread pitch for the IACV on the 240 intake? i don't have any and it appears to be like a 8mm bolt? 

[bottomwatcher]

What are you trying accomplish? A delete? Other than egr all my sensors are in place and the computer is not throwing any codes. I understand the wanting to simplify things and there is a list of items that folks have eliminated. But it will run better the more you leave it factory stock. The only reason I am not running egr is because it would need a custom tube to match the truck exhaust manifold to the sx manifold. My ka24e has been dead nuts reliable for the several years since the swap.

[tgaydos]

i'm not trying to delete anything other than egr/emissions because it's not needed where i live and the engine didn't come with it. i've got the bolts for the iacv got it bolted up and wiring started on today. 

[bottomwatcher]

Good I didn't mean to sound old curmudgeon but there are threads out there on how to eliminate systems that the engine will run without. Run like shit, some folks mistake the shitty idle for a loping cam of yesteryear. Anyways keep at it and the first time swap everything looks like it was written in Chinese. The only 720 I have seen in my neck of the woods in years was for sale on Craigslist. 720 ka swap 90% complete just finish wiring! Well the wiring is more like 70% of the swap, mechanicals easy. Keep at it one wire at a time and beer is not your friend when wiring! Looking forward to seeing this completed and how satisfied you are when on the road.

[tgaydos]

for sure one wire at a time indeed, still waiting to find out where those other two go then i should be in business, after fuel and cooling and i'm sure other little shit here and there that will pop up. i think i'll need to swap the harness though as there's a few almost broken wires on the injector plugs and it's very crunch all over. 

[Charlie69]

Gathering parts to do a KA swap to my 86 720 King Cab and gathering parts for a VG30 swap in my 84 King Cab ST.  I will be using parts from my 85 720 King Cab ST On both trucks.  The 85 has a bent frame.

[tgaydos]

2 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Gathering parts to do a KA swap to my 86 720 King Cab and gathering parts for a VG30 swap in my 84 King Cab ST.  I will be using parts from my 85 720 King Cab ST On both trucks.  The 85 has a bent frame.

Keep track of the vg progress I'm interested in that. Idk if that'll be my next swap or if I'll just get a patty with a vg in it already. 

[Charlie69]

I try to document all my Datsun/Nissan builds.  But the VG will most likely be the most detailed.

[tgaydos]

set out to wire/plumb the fuel pump today only to find out that the fuel pump i have is so weird and no one carries the right size fuel hose. After about an hour looking at various fuel pumps at oreilly's i finally managed to find the right one and got it ordered new from the junkyard for about a third of what oreilly's was wanting. so new fuel pump e2000 style should be here this weekend and i'll get that in this time next week. i was stumped as to which line was the fuel feed line for the engine then after dropping the tank and looking at diagrams i remembered the P/O had the pump in the engine bay and had run the line directly to the hardline. hopefully this time next week i'll have the right hardware and lines to plumb it and get it at least partly running. I also managed to drain the tank (i thought it'd be super gross and crusty) it looks fine to use for me so instead of needing a fuel cell i'll just run what i have currently and probably keep the shitty bed for awhile. 

[Charlie69]

Electric fuel pumps push fuel better than they pump fuel.  This is why they are mounted as close to the fuel tank as possible.

[tgaydos]

this i know, i was kinda dumb founded when i took the old fuel pump for my old truck a couple years ago. 

 

[bottomwatcher]

There are several options here. I am running a walbro pump under the hood and left the original electric pump in line and running, kind of like a lift pump for a diesel and all has been fine. If time money no object I would get a larger hardbody fuel tank with mounting bracket and in tank pump. Walbro under hood if friggin loud! Some day I will make the conversion but current format works fine.

[tgaydos]

I've got an external fuel pump from a 87 f150 on the way new from the jy. Only $30 too. After someone mentioned they are running it without issue. E2000 is the model pump number that matches the cross reference to the f150. Eventually I might go with a flatbed and fuel cell setup but for now this should work just fine. 

[]2eDeYe]

I've been running that pump externally for quite a few years now. Works really well. 

[tgaydos]

Fuel pump came in today. I should be able to wire and plumb it in Monday morning. Then cap/rotor and starter bolts and I should be able to hear it fire this week. Last big tuning I need for it is a radiator/hoses and a clutch slave. Bleed the system and it should be running and driving by the end of next month. 

[tgaydos]

Fuel pump is on and plumbed in. I put the hood back on today and got a new cap/rotor. I need to mess with the wiring for the fuel pump and a little other wiring and lil bitch should be ready to fire. I need to do the vacuum lines also as well as the coolant and belts and shit, also in need of a new alt bracket but will probably just fab something up. Was a good afternoon for sure. 

[tgaydos]

got the radiator yesterday and hoses, new exhaust down pipe is on order but is two weeks out, once i get that stuff in i believe apart from minor shit (hose clamps, nuts and bolts, etc) the only thing keeping it from running would be my lack of motivation currently due to the rain and cold and not having an inside place to work on it. but hopefully very very soon it'll run. Lucky for me i just started a job at a garage in my area so i'll be able to get it inside over there once i get it kinda running enough to put on a trailer then work out all the kinks and trouble shoot with an actual electrical guy and full shop. so close yet so far still. 

 

I was also thinking the other day instead of wiring in the ice box why couldn't i just run a switched ignition wire to the power on the ecu and fuel pump wires to the rear from the ecu? would this work or would i be putting too much power to the ecu and possibly blow it?