Josh K. Posted May 6, 2018 Report Share Posted May 6, 2018 I doubt it. That whole structure is boxed in where it mounts the rear crossmember. I think there's some variance in the control arm lengths from the factory or between years. Maybe one control arm as damaged and replaced with a different year. I have a feeling that's why mine was so far off on both sides. 3 Quote Link to comment
paradime Posted May 7, 2018 Report Share Posted May 7, 2018 Never heard of such a thing, but Josh's reasoning is starting to make sense. 2 Quote Link to comment
Icehouse Posted May 8, 2018 Report Share Posted May 8, 2018 I got 10 bucks the arm is bent. Our racecar was originally a circle track car. They did the somewhat common "torch" alignment. To set it back up for road coarse we had to max out Byron's brackets. We had to settle with 4 degrees of camber and 1/4" of total toe in. Next season we will need to pull those out and get some good ones. Here is our racecars caster seen with the fender off. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted May 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2018 Here are were the brackets are currently set: Drivers side... I SEE DAYLIGHT!!! I'll adjust that promptly and recheck once I get the alignment tools. I hope that will squeek out +0.25*. There is a good chance. Still doesn't mean the arm isn't bent.. just means that there might be enough adjustment to correct. Passenger side. Currently set to positive toe in this config to reduce total toe, and tire wear. Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted May 9, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2018 Also if I can, I am going to put the allen side of the socket inside the bracket. Adjusting those nuts on the inside is a joke. Quote Link to comment
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