redhead Posted April 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 I wonder if you could make something work out of a kit like this ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-A-C-Underdash-Evaporator-Kit-fits-Cars-and-Trucks-EV9035KC/173221979275?epid=14016726637&hash=item2854d5a48b:g:BfgAAOSwqlFarWQ5 1 Quote Link to comment
captain720 Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 I wonder if you could make something work out of a kit like this ? https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-A-C-Underdash-Evaporator-Kit-fits-Cars-and-Trucks-EV9035KC/173221979275?epid=14016726637&hash=item2854d5a48b:g:BfgAAOSwqlFarWQ5 People are working on trying to rig something together, hopefully we will have something working by mid summer. 1 Quote Link to comment
DrvnDrvr Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 I'm working on it using an aftermarket kit from http://coldmasterinc.com/product/ac-kit-universal-underdash-special-order-kit-with-no-compressor-404-000dc/ They are available on ebay. I ordered extra long hoses because I found none of the aftermarket unit will fit under the dash and will have to mount this behind the driver's seat. The hardest parts to source were the a/c compressor bracket and the hose fitting for it to connect to the aftermarket a/c unit. when it all gets here I will go to a local auto a/c shop or machine shop to have those fittings made. When I get it all together and working I'll do a write thread on it. 3 Quote Link to comment
redhead Posted April 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 I'm working on it using an aftermarket kit from http://coldmasterinc.com/product/ac-kit-universal-underdash-special-order-kit-with-no-compressor-404-000dc/ They are available on ebay. I ordered extra long hoses because I found none of the aftermarket unit will fit under the dash and will have to mount this behind the driver's seat. The hardest parts to source were the a/c compressor bracket and the hose fitting for it to connect to the aftermarket a/c unit. when it all gets here I will go to a local auto a/c shop or machine shop to have those fittings made. When I get it all together and working I'll do a write thread on it. I cant wait to see how this turns out!! 2 Quote Link to comment
redhead Posted April 26, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 Power steering pump is easily obtainable. Knock the idler pulley bearing out and replace it. Becareful with the hoses as the aftermarket hoses are expensive and do not fit well. Nice work removing the bed mounts. Keep an eye out for a good running KA for when the Z24 wears out. I can not wait to see this with the flat bed on it. What your thoughts on getting 97 Nissan Altima for the KA24DE motor? Just figure I would ask. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 Not sure if the the blocks are the same as rear wheel drive KAs. I know Most people use 240sx or hard body KAs.. I am checking out the early Frontier KAs as those seem to be plentiful aroung AZ. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted April 26, 2018 Report Share Posted April 26, 2018 Altima motors don't work. Intake points the wrong way and won't accept a S13 intake. Bell housing is different. Too many things to spend the time money to correct to make it work. Easier/cheaper to just find an S chassis motor. Even a truck block is better in every way. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 Ac bracket can be obtained from any late 80s d21. They had z24 engines and often came with AC 2 Quote Link to comment
DrvnDrvr Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 Ac bracket can be obtained from any late 80s d21. They had z24 engines and often came with AC Thanks. Already done. Same with the compressor hoses. Got it from Central Grade Auto Parts Lewiston, Idaho. Looking for the accumulator bracket now. Will start a build thread when I get all the parts. 1 Quote Link to comment
redhead Posted April 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 Altima motors don't work. Intake points the wrong way and won't accept a S13 intake. Bell housing is different. Too many things to spend the time money to correct to make it work. Easier/cheaper to just find an S chassis motor. Even a truck block is better in every way. That the information i was looking for to have in the back of my head when keeping eye out for a KA motor. 1 Quote Link to comment
redhead Posted April 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 (edited) Well last night I got the engine and transmission mounted on the short body frame. I pulled the KC off the old frame and mounted it on short frame. Edited April 23, 2019 by redhead 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 I think the distributor (CAS) sticks out the back of the head also on the FWD KA's . 2 Quote Link to comment
bottomwatcher Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 Looks like you are not afraid of work. Just be aware the ka swap is not a drop in and go. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 Power steering pump is easily obtainable. Knock the idler pulley bearing out and replace it. Becareful with the hoses as the aftermarket hoses are expensive and do not fit well. Do you guys know what the thread is on the power steering box? I use a 16 x 1.5 inverted flare -6 AN adapter on the Toyota pumps and boxes when I build custom hoses. The Aeroquip reusable steel hose ends and some high pressure line are super easy to use and allow you to build any shape hose you need. It's a lot easier (and safer) than bending a stock hose to fit. 1 Quote Link to comment
redhead Posted April 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 Looks like you are not afraid of work. Just be aware the ka swap is not a drop in and go. I figure that much and they have good how to thread on here on putting one in the 720. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted April 27, 2018 Report Share Posted April 27, 2018 Do you guys know what the thread is on the power steering box? I use a 16 x 1.5 inverted flare -6 AN adapter on the Toyota pumps and boxes when I build custom hoses. The Aeroquip reusable steel hose ends and some high pressure line are super easy to use and allow you to build any shape hose you need. It's a lot easier (and safer) than bending a stock hose to fit. Ia m not sure what the thread size is. Pressure hose takes a 22mm wrench. Quote Link to comment
redhead Posted April 29, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 (edited) I got everything to hook up and put back together. Last thing to do is work out the fuel. Edited April 23, 2019 by redhead 2 Quote Link to comment
redhead Posted May 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 (edited) Well this is how I got the KC fuel tank to fit. I had to remove the standard cab fuel mount to make room for the KC tank cause it longer. Edited April 23, 2019 by redhead 1 Quote Link to comment
redhead Posted May 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 (edited) What my options for fixing a pin hole in the hard fuel line under the cab? The hole is right above the cross members. Edited April 23, 2019 by redhead 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 2, 2018 Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 Are those lines steel or plastic? If plastic, you could use a splice from a big rig air brake hose system. Any NAPA will have those couplers. If it's a steel line, replace the line or cut it and flare it, then use an inverted flare coupler. 2 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 2, 2018 Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 The King cab tank will fit much better. Use the stock factory electric fuel pump. Be sure you hook up the fuel return line. Quote Link to comment
redhead Posted May 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 Are those lines steel or plastic? If plastic, you could use a splice from a big rig air brake hose system. Any NAPA will have those couplers. If it's a steel line, replace the line or cut it and flare it, then use an inverted flare coupler. It is a metal line they used. Do you know if you can separated just the fuel line from the other three lines? I know there a block holding all four of them together. The Kind cab tank will fit mush better. Use the stock factory electric fuel pump. Be sure you hook up the fuel return line. That the KC tank is under there just hard to tell in the pictures. I had to cut off the Standard cab front fuel tank mount off in order to get the KC tank to fit under there. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted May 3, 2018 Report Share Posted May 3, 2018 Sounds write on cutting the standard front bracket off to get it in. Easy fix for the fuel line is cut it where the leak is and slide a rubber hose and a couple hose clamps on it. Just remeber to change that section of hose every year or two. 2 Quote Link to comment
redhead Posted May 4, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 4, 2018 I went with the easy fix of cutting the fuel line for now. I may do something different but most likely not :blink:. I forgot how much of a pain it is to put a cv axle in on these some days. 2 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted May 4, 2018 Report Share Posted May 4, 2018 Modern fuels kill rubber hose, so if you do plan on using the rubber hose as a long term replacement for the steel fuel line, get the right hose. Nothing sucks more than burning your project to the ground because of a fuel leak. 1 Quote Link to comment
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