1983.5 4x4 - retirement truck

[Lockleaf]

7 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

Someone had posted a pic here years ago where the replaced the original pins with removable Clevis pins. It would be kind of fun to roll doorless now and then. I even thought about welding up a set of square tube steel doors. Maybe someday.

I've spent multiple summers doorless in my 720.  I just unbolted the hinges from the body and called it good.  

[Madkaw]

On 4/4/2021 at 11:19 PM, Lockleaf said:

I've spent multiple summers doorless in my 720.  I just unbolted the hinges from the body and called it good.  

I’m going to run bolts - ordered today ! 

[Madkaw]

Getting closer to going EFI . I mocked up my new induction system and ignition today . I settled on mounting the coil on the valve cover since the cover already had bosses conveniently located on the cover . I’ll be using a VW coil running wasted spark on just the intake side for now . Maybe both sides eventually . 

[Madkaw]

More steps towards programmable  EFI . Found a cast valve cover which I needed to mounting my coil . That’s a VW Beetle smart coil. Not sure if I’m going to run all 8 plugs yet. Wiring is coming along . The ECU will be in the glove box . The problem with this single cab is no room . I like how small this truck is , but not much extra space for anything . 
Plan is to get spark first , then go for fuel . This is the way I did it on my Z. It’s just easier then doing it all at once . Minimal down time is the key . Spent the day yesterday changing front diff side seals . I think it was only leaking because I over filled the diff ;(

Also changed out my lower door hinges . Installed aftermarket ones and they fit like ass and chipped my doors . I rebuilt originals using bolts and bushings. Now the doors fit right . Sucks we can’t get better parts for these trucks 

[Charlie69]

This will be a nice improvement.  Economy and power is a plus.

[Lockleaf]

Is there a reason you can't squeeze the ECU under the seat, the way Nissan did it from the factory?

[datzenmike]

No reason at all not to. Passenger side might be easier?

[Charlie69]

Passenger side has the wiring that goes to the back of the truck through the floor and a relay mounted to the seat mount that rises up from the floor.  Dependining on the size is just might fit under the passenger seat.

[Madkaw]

4 hours ago, Lockleaf said:

Is there a reason you can't squeeze the ECU under the seat, the way Nissan did it from the factory?

When you don't have factory seats it makes it harder. The ECU came with a 4ft harness and I was too cheap to buy a longer one. 

[bottomwatcher]

My ecu and can am box live in my glove box. Makes it easy to do the self diagnosing, you don't have to try squeezing you face under the seat. Your manifold reminds me of the ka manifold. Makes it miserable to service anything underneath. The ka has spaghetti pile of rubber heater hose underneath and I lost about 8 hours of my life the last 2 days trying to change one stupid hose. My fault, I was stupid not to replace every hose when I did the swap. I don't remember what the napsz had but before installing the manifold make sure it doesn't block access to the hose clamps. Make sure they a clocked so they can be adjusted without removing the manifold. Like I said I am an idiot. Your project looks awsome and you are doing good work. Carry on.

[Madkaw]

9 hours ago, bottomwatcher said:

My ecu and can am box live in my glove box. Makes it easy to do the self diagnosing, you don't have to try squeezing you face under the seat. Your manifold reminds me of the ka manifold. Makes it miserable to service anything underneath. The ka has spaghetti pile of rubber heater hose underneath and I lost about 8 hours of my life the last 2 days trying to change one stupid hose. My fault, I was stupid not to replace every hose when I did the swap. I don't remember what the napsz had but before installing the manifold make sure it doesn't block access to the hose clamps. Make sure they a clocked so they can be adjusted without removing the manifold. Like I said I am an idiot. Your project looks awsome and you are doing good work. Carry on.

I noticed a lot of nipples for coolant and  thought to myself - where do all these go ? Probably won’t use anything at the TB , so that eliminates one of them . My turbo is is water cooled , so I will some extra places too.

[Diesel Dentures]

You wouldn’t happen to have the size of those door hinge bolts and hardware you used would ya? I bought some that I thought would fit but that didn’t work out

[Madkaw]

7 hours ago, Diesel Dentures said:

You wouldn’t happen to have the size of those door hinge bolts and hardware you used would ya? I bought some that I thought would fit but that didn’t work out

8mm x 110mm 

Now that’s using the bronze bushings that came with the hinge kit

[Madkaw]

It’s official - she’s running off the little box now , don’t need no stinking distributor.

Going to run off of one side for now . I might run both sides eventually . 
I will be relocating the coil to the firewall eventually .

Next will fuel

[Madkaw]

Cleaned up some real estate today . Going to move the charcoal canister to the other side somewhere . 
Need to drive it around and figure some timing tables for this engine with just 4 plugs for now . I have full timing limited to 35 degrees and idle is around 10. Didn’t hear it knocking yet , but only drove it around the block . 
I have a better idea for mounting the coil , but need to get some material . I, going to get it off that pretty valve cover for sure 

[datzenmike]

With cross flow and hemi combustion chamber 10-12 sounds about right. Try to get the other 4 working and the timing drops to 3

[Madkaw]

11 hours ago, datzenmike said:

With cross flow and hemi combustion chamber 10-12 sounds about right. Try to get the other 4 working and the timing drops to 3

That’s my intention - but burned up a coil with the wrong setting and just now figured how I can mount two coils and NOT have them mounted in the valve cover . 
 

[Madkaw]

Fun stuff

[Madkaw]

The delete is complete ! Kind of. 
The delete cover looks good . Now I need to move the coil pack to the firewall , but it is so tight there . The VW coil pack wires were made so the coil has to be sitting right next to the engine for them to reach . The wires are proprietary to the coil , so I want to use them . My intention is to make a mount and hang it from the pinch seam on the firewall between the engine and heater hoses . It barely fits , but it will. The exhaust side will be easier if I do it , but still a pain since the firewall has complex curves everywhere . I got a piece of 4” aluminum square tube to make a mount with . It’s going to take longer to make this coil bracket then any part of this job -lol. 
The truck has run exceptionally well with this set up so far!

[Lockleaf]

Have you checked the coil wires for a 6 or 8 cylinder VW from the same time period?  They would likely have the same coil connections on them, but likely come with longer lengths you could better work with.

[Charlie69]

Buy a roll of plug wire and the boots the crimp ends, and a crimper and make the length wires you want.

[Madkaw]

13 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

Buy a roll of plug wire and the boots the crimp ends, and a crimper and make the length wires you want.

Like I said - the VW coil seems to have a dedicated spark plug wire . Not saying a universal might work - but the boots definitely snap in a certain way

[Madkaw]

Did some more rearranging in the engine bay . Moved the coil and charcoal canister . Now to make another bracket to fire the other 4 plugs . Next is to see about electric steering . Still looking for a Manual steering box 

[Charlie69]

The difference in the 2 wd and the 4 wd steering boxes are the pitman arms.  The boxes are the same.

Edited July 12, 2021 by Charlie69

[Madkaw]

4 hours ago, Charlie69 said:

The difference in the 2 wd and the 4 wd steering boxes are the pitman arms.  The boxes are the same.

Thanks Charlie