Draker's 1972 1200 Sedan - "The Pickle"

[Draker]

16 minutes ago, Mattndew76 said:

220 drop cord plugged into the dryer outlet.

have it but dryer is in the other side of the house. I need to buy a second one and it would have to go right through the middle of the living room. 
 

 

[Draker]

10 minutes ago, wayno said:

Depends on when your house was built and where I expect, mine was in the 70s when they put the washer/dryer in the garage, but I have a separate 220 circuit for my welders, the dryer is on it's own circuit.

 

Garage was built in 2005 as part of a massive remodel. No excuse! Other than just not a handy person or forward thinker. Who knows.. maybe they just wanted park cars in it.

[Duncan]

10 hours ago, Draker said:

Garage was built in 2005 as part of a massive remodel. No excuse! Other than just not a handy person or forward thinker. Who knows.. maybe they just wanted park cars in it.

 

I had to pull 220 from my electrical box (on the other side of the house) through the attic to my garage and shed. My compressor is 220v as is my welder.

 

I try not to run them both at the same time...

 

 

[Draker]

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

 

I had to pull 220 from my electrical box (on the other side of the house) through the attic to my garage and shed. My compressor is 220v as is my welder.

 

I try not to run them both at the same time...

 

I'd have to trench about 100 feet to get 220v power in my garage. No attic or crawl space access. It's all good though, I've got a plan B. For now I'll likely daisy chain extension cords like Matt mentioned.

[Lockleaf]

If using cords smaller than 10 gauge, double check that you get deep enough penetration.

 

I just recently finished a new home.  I had 2 220v boxes installed in the third car (my shop for now) and then also had them run 220v on a seperate circuit out the back of the house.  It dead ends in a closed box for now, but if i ever build a shop back there, I'm ready to wire. 😁

[Draker]

48 minutes ago, Lockleaf said:

If using cords smaller than 10 gauge, double check that you get deep enough penetration.

 

I just recently finished a new home.  I had 2 220v boxes installed in the third car (my shop for now) and then also had them run 220v on a seperate circuit out the back of the house.  It dead ends in a closed box for now, but if i ever build a shop back there, I'm ready to wire. 😁

 

I'll confirm. My current cord is 6 and I just double checked the one I'm looking to buy and it's 8. Good call on that.

 

I do have 220 in my shed in the backyard. So that's where go to weld. It's not great, but it works.

 

 

See you were forward thinking, adding 220v just in case. Good for you!

[datsunrides]

10ga is good for 30amps but it would be a good idea to use 8ga if your running extension cords a long distance to account for voltage drop.

[Draker]

I just measured. I'll need 40 feet of extension cord. The one I have now is 37 feet of 6 gauge so almost there. I could actually reach the 1200 now I think. I'll pick up another 25 feet of 8 gauge and I'll be able to weld in my garage or driveway.

[Draker]

Got the other door panel on tonight. started looking at the center console and how to attach the shifter boot. I might have to draw up a trim ring and 3d print it.

 

Edited August 28, 2020 by Draker

[datsunfreak]

14 hours ago, Draker said:

started looking at the center console and how to attach the shifter boot. I might have to draw up a trim ring and 3d print it

 

Did you see the way I did mine? 

 

Seems like maybe I say that way too much in this thread...   😄

 

It was fairly simple/easy, and the finished product looked good. Can post pics of need be...

[Draker]

59 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

 

Did you see the way I did mine? 

 

Seems like maybe I say that way too much in this thread...   😄

 

It was fairly simple/easy, and the finished product looked good. Can post pics of need be...

I remember seeing the finished product but not how it’s attached. Feel free to post pics. You’re a good reference so comment away.

[datsunfreak]

On 8/28/2020 at 4:17 PM, Draker said:

I remember seeing the finished product but not how it’s attached. Feel free to post pics. You’re a good reference so comment away.

 

I made two little plastic pieces that bolt to the holes in the console like so...

 

 

 

Then inserted those from inside the shift boot and screwed it together...

 

 

 

This way there is no visible ring, it's all inside the boot. The boot was made a wee bit undersize so it could be stretched into position...

 

[Draker]

ooh

4 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

I made two little plastic pieces that bolt to the holes in the console like so...

 

Then inserted those from inside the shift boot and screwed it together...

 

This way there is no visible ring, it's all inside the boot. The boot was made a wee bit undersize so it could be stretched into position...

 

 

 

Oh wow, pretty easy compared to what I had planned and the results are the same. Thanks!!

[Draker]

The work on the pickle doesn’t stop just cause I got a new toy. That’s going to have to wait patiently while the pickle gets some love. Giggity.

 

got back into the garage and trying to hide out from the smoke from near by wild fires. It raining ash and there is a thick cloud of smoke in the air.
 

I repositioned the jack stands and dropped the crossmember out of the car. Gotta say it feels like a paperweight compared to the 510 version. Anyway I chopped out on of the mounts and then tossed it back in the car. Now I’ll chop and lower the mount and get it tacked back in. Then I’ll start on the other side.

 

pic for proof:

[datsunfreak]

On 9/8/2020 at 11:20 PM, Draker said:

Gotta say it feels like a paperweight compared to the 510 version.

 

You just described every single part on a 1200.  😄

[Draker]

I was able to get a bit more work done on this yesterday. Modded the right side mount, and lowered it about a half inch. Bolted it back in and leveled out engine and tach welded it into place. Now time for the left side mount. I'll see if I have time to drop the crossmember tonight and get cutting. 

 

The welder works great in the garage, but it gets a bit smokey.. With the smoke from wildfires outside I can't open the doors to exhaust it out. 😐  

[datsunfreak]

If you're not using argon, try a box fan next to where you're welding? 

[Draker]

4 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

If you're not using argon, try a box fan next to where you're welding? 

 

Definitely using gas. no flux for me!

[Draker]

I bought the dryer to welding plug adapter, it's welding day:

[Draker]

Here were the previous bird shit welds. It took forever to grid that away.. as well as the other 3.

 

 

Previous owner A14 swapped the car and chopped the living shit out the mounts. Likely not a problem, but good time to add some structure back in.

 

On the taller mount the angle was pretty bad from the previous owners mod. So I pie cut it and leveled it out.

 

Here it is back in the car.

Edited September 13, 2020 by Draker

[Draker]

Here is the final product. Lowered each side about 1/2" and centered the mounts up so the engine sits in the middle of the engine bay.  There were a number of cuts in the mounts from the previous owner to they could bend the mounts for the A14. I welded them up. That's why there are stray beads here and there. I ground them down a bit. Might do it a little more before I paint. We'll see.

 

Edited September 13, 2020 by Draker

[Draker]

Here are the final results. I had that crossmember in and out about a dozen times today.

 

 

 

 

Edited September 13, 2020 by Draker

[Draker]

I attempted to do one mount at a time and test fit.. that was a huge pain in the ass.

If anyone is going to do this mod in the future, the best way to attack it is exactly how @datsunfreak described earlier. The correct way is to just put a spacer between the crossmember and oil pan. Center and level the engine, install the mounts with the crossmember towers bolted on. Good idea to raise the engine about 1/8 - 1/4" higher than you'd like because the rubber mounts will compress. Tack the towers in place. Remove the crossmember, weld it in permanently. Reinstall and check your measurements.

Next is to pull it out again and paint it. I'd love to powder it but I'll probably do that someday when/if I actually restore the car.

[graveltrapp]

I think the Driveshaft is the most expensive part on my 1200, A15, 63a, stock rear end required. shorter length and new joints+

It looked beautiful going in, and it was the last and critical part of the puzzle. 

[datsunfreak]

On 9/12/2020 at 11:29 PM, Draker said:

If anyone is going to do this mod in the future, the best way to attack it is exactly how @datsunfreak described earlier. The correct way is to just put a spacer between the crossmember and oil pan. Center and level the engine, install the mounts with the crossmember towers bolted on. Good idea to raise the engine about 1/8 - 1/4" higher than you'd like because the rubber mounts will compress. Tack the towers in place. Remove the crossmember, weld it in permanently. Reinstall and check your measurements.

 

As an addendum, an even easier way is to do exactly what you said but with the engine on an engine stand, if you can. That made it way easier for me.