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Draker

Draker's 1972 1200 Sedan - "The Pickle"

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13 hours ago, Draker said:

 if needed I'll remove a bit of the dust shield on the drive shaft

 

I typically remove all of it. It's just in the way and not really needed because...

 

Quote

I installed the B310 version which has the metal dust shield.

 

 

Edited by datsunfreak

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Made some more progress today. I picked up the boot and bushings from Nissan. Also got a brake stopper pad. I got those installed pretty easy.

 

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I adjusted the clutch engagement point and then on to modifying the drive shaft to make it fit. I cut off the tiny dust shield and it gave about 1/2" of space the move. That should be good. While installing the drive shaft.. I found it was bent. Looks like a fork lift but a decent dent in it... Sucks, but I know of another one. I'll likely pull it and give that one a go.

 

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Also I noticed the drive shaft angle at the rear of the transmission is likely too much. The transmission could likely stand to go about an inch higher. Anyway, its in. I'll test drive it and then make a final decision.. But spinning the wheels in the air I could hear some clunks of the drive line and a bit of vibration. It might be better once there is some load on it, so not giving up on it quite yet.

 

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When I was putting the transmission back together I made sure to shift all the years and move the shift forks. Everything was good... or so I thought. When it was in the car I couldn't get it into 1st or 2nd gear. All the other gears were fine. I was thinking that was just from being dry. Before firing it up, I rotated the drive shaft to lube all the gears and get the bearings some oil. I then cranked the engine a few times then let it sit. After that I still couldn't get the transmission into 1st or 2nd. Kind odd. At that point I started to think I might have to open the case again.

 

I fired up the engine which started nice and easy. No starter grinds or anything. I tried shifting through the gears and still no 1st or 2nd. I could get them to barely engage enough to move the wheels, so that was a promising sign. After a bunch of wiggling I was able to get it to pop into 2nd. It wasn't easy, and it wasn't easy to get it out of that gear either. At this point I popped open the manual to check which detent was responsible for this shift fork. After inspecting it on the transmission, it was sunk in a bit more than the other 2. I backed it out about 2 turns and rechecked. What do you know, now I could shift all gears without issue. Crisis averted.

 

 

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I was able to get a few other things installed, lower dust boot for the transmission. I also found this universal square boot for the upper boot. It actually fits pretty good!

 

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While I was under the car adjusting the clutch engagement I thought it might be good to get some heat insulation wrap for the hydraulic line. I could see it getting warm if sitting still for a while. It's got some good clearance, but I think I'll do it for peace of mind.

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And the last bit on the doors was to install new oem door handles. The old ones were just fine, but the chrome was showing it's age. The new parts were available so I bought them. Never know when the source will dry up.

 

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I'll take a look at modding the center console. I bought leather shift boot that should be showing up any day now. Then I need a shift knob. Too bad it's not a 63A, because I have a beautiful NOS wooden dogleg knob. I think I have a NISMO knob somewhere, I'll try that but I don't think it will go with the interior. Well.. the interior is a wreck at the moment, so it might be okay for now.

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I've always thought that the routing of the clutch line was a bit suspect.

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Your cruising on this thing.

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7 hours ago, Farmer said:

Your cruising on this thing.

 

thanks! Sometimes it feels like it just goes on forever. 🙂 

 

I actually took it out for a test drive today. Well two test drives. the first one I quickly found out my front brakes were dragging.. got about a miles from my house and started to notice I would slow down pretty quick between shifts. I gave the brake a quick pump and sure enough it was hard as a rock.. So it was 2nd/3rd gear dragging my way back home.

 

While I was safely back in the drive way I checked the clutch and brake engagement points against the service manual. For the brake I was able to back off the brake light switch and get a bit more travel. And for the clutch pedal, I readjusted the slave push rod to get the required 30mm engagement point. Both pedal heights are a bit 'tall' at around 150mm. They should be at about 142 at factory height. No big deal there.. just 8mm less leg room. I'll survive.

 

Second test drive was better, the clutch engagement point felt a lot better. Before it was engaging right at the top of the pedal and now it's at a comfortable spot where you would expect it to be. The brakes felt a lot better but I have a hunch I'm still dragging a bit. I can coast and don't slow down immediately. But I think I might be dragging a bit still, the wheels/hubs still felt hot. I'll need to get another test drive in before I know for sure. The brake pedal rod is not adjustable.. so I either need to find one that is adjustable or shim the master per the manual. I gotta say, the 280zx brakes on the car feel great. Lots of stopping power vs stock 1200 disks. You'll probably see early in this thread I changed the master right after I bought the car because the brakes sucked.. and after the new master.. they still sucked just as bad. Anyway, definitely a worth while upgrade.

 

Lastly, as I expected there is a noticeable vibration from the driveline above 45 mph. So I didn't get to cruise the car at highway speeds. Looks like I'll be going to pull that spare drive line from the yard in a few weeks. If it turns out that one has forklift damage as well, then either I need to find another or just swap the yokes to my auto driveline. Ujoins are a mofo though.. so hope it doesn't come to that.

 

 

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19 hours ago, Draker said:

Too bad it's not a 63A, because I have a beautiful NOS wooden dogleg knob. I think I have a NISMO knob somewhere, I'll try that but I don't think it will go with the interior. Well.. the interior is a wreck at the moment, so it might be okay for now.

 

Well I tried both shift knobs I had.. the NISMO and standard 5 speed. Neither of them worked.. apparently these are for something with M10x1.25 and 1200/b210/b310's are M8x1.25. Time to find a new knob.

 

This is the dogleg knob I've got.. too bad.

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Edited by Draker

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I started to look at the center console. I thought the auto transmission shifter piece would have bolted into the console. It looks like it's glued. @datsunfreak any tip about how you went about dismantling yours without destroying the console itself?

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1 hour ago, Draker said:

I started to look at the center console. I thought the auto transmission shifter piece would have bolted into the console. It looks like it's glued. @datsunfreak any tip about how you went about dismantling yours without destroying the console itself?

 

I believe it's actually "welded" in at four points. I ground down the plastic in those spots and it came out clean. 

 

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On 8/8/2020 at 8:05 PM, Draker said:

Neither of them worked.. apparently these are for something with M10x1.25 and 1200/b210/b310's are M8x1.25. 

 

Basically, all of the "Datsun" shifters are M8, all of the "Nissan" shifters are M10, if that makes sense. They switched somewhere in the early 80s to the bigger size.

 

Oddly, a lot of modern automatics use M8 shift knobs. I have used the fancy wood knobs from modern Jaguars many times...

jaguar-xk8-and-xkr-walnut-wood-gear-knob

 

 

 

 

There's also the option of resizing it using one of these? 

 

https://diftech.com/products/diftech-10725-shift-knob-adapter-insert-metric-thread-m8x1-25-m10x1-25-black-oxide-universal?variant=8117534949480&currency=USD&utm_medium=product_sync&utm_source=google&utm_content=sag_organic&utm_campaign=sag_organic&gclid=CjwKCAjw4MP5BRBtEiwASfwAL-2oSPpGCBGnej0nfSdciwsenTukoq3N2XIg2i5SnEWMEK9ijT7yERoCtnMQAvD_BwE

 

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On 8/8/2020 at 7:41 AM, KELMO said:

I've always thought that the routing of the clutch line was a bit suspect.

 

I think that's why on everything else (including newer A-series) it's on the other side.  😁

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On 8/8/2020 at 7:57 PM, Draker said:

The brake pedal rod is not adjustable.. so I either need to find one that is adjustable or shim the master per the manual.

 

I would just swap the push rod for an adjustable one? Might require removal of the master cylinder though...

 

And honestly, never seen one that wasn't adjustable. That's odd...

Edited by datsunfreak

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7 hours ago, datsunfreak said:

 

I would just swap the push rod for an adjustable one? Might require removal of the master cylinder though...

 

And honestly, never seen one that wasn't adjustable. That's odd...

 

I'll take another look to confirm. I thought it was odd too, maybe my eyes deceived me. I also have a spare, maybe that one has an adjustable push rod I could switch over.

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Installed the vapor barrier and door panel.

 

passenger door done. New rubber, regulators, door handles, escutcheons. 

 

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Edited by Draker
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Before

 

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1 minute ago, datsunfreak said:

Any luck with the console?

 

Not yet. Likely will make some progress this weekend. Also planning to get another driveshaft on Monday. 🙂 

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On 8/14/2020 at 5:12 PM, datsunfreak said:

Any luck with the console?


got this torn apart today. Mine was glued in and it was a bit of a pain to get out. I amended up with two very small cracks in the console on the inside corners. I’ll either plastic weld or epoxy them. 
 

I thought I bought a shift boot, but I guess not. Placed order for it today.

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I also started looking at the drive shaft. I am still planning on getting a spare on Monday, but I ordered a u joint as a plan b. If needed I’ll swap the yoke from the manual to the auto drive shaft. 
 

second I need to figure out if the transmission needs to go up another inch to correct the drive shaft angle. I’ll know more once I get the drive shaft replaced.

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Well I got another drive shaft today and it doesn't appear to be bent.. but it has a bad u-joint. I'll probably order one more and fix a couple driveshafts.

 

Second I started measuring the drive shaft angles and things are a bit out of wack. The engine to driveshaft angle is 5.8 degrees, and the rear angle is .5 degrees. The drive shaft is .8 degrees. I can shim the rear to get the overall angle right, but both front and rear will be over the recommended 3 degrees per angle. While it probably won't vibrate, they will probably wear quicker.

 

I've lifted the rear of the transmission as high as it can go. The only adjustment will have to be by lowering the engine itself. The rear has 2" lowering blocks. Maybe lower the engine a bit and shim the axle and meet in the middle?

 

I can also try to lower the engine by slotting the engine mounts. Here is a visual of whats going on.

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by Draker

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Yeah, I was concerned that might happen. I ended up lowering my engine about an inch to fix the same issue. That trans is just a bit too much fatter than the stock one to go up high enough...

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2 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

Yeah, I was concerned that might happen. I ended up lowering my engine about an inch to fix the same issue. That trans is just a bit too much fatter than the stock one to go up high enough...

 

Oddly enough, I think the crossmember has already been modded to lower the mounts. It looks like a blind child cut and welded it back together. I've got about an inch clearance from oil pan to crossmember. But it looks like it's gonna have to go lower one way or another.

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I got shafted today by the driveshaft shop.  They informed me my u joints are non-serviceable, which was apparently my bad luck as Datsun/Nissan did this to a fair few model cars including my Datsun B120.    Need to have it all remade custom.   Or get another one from Australia which probably also has worn u-joints for around the same price, LOL

 

 

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