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Draker

Draker's 1972 1200 Sedan - "The Pickle"

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I would also try to steer you into putting some of that SEM paint on the lower door...   😁

 

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And you can see in that pic, after the panels were good and dry I masked off the plastic trim and painted it with some silver paint. Not quite OEM, but it looked better than leaving it panel-colored IMO. 

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20 minutes ago, datsunfreak said:

 

I'd probably go through the vertical bit on the rear bulkhead rather than the floor (a few inches back from where you're looking). That way the belt is not trying to pull itself through the floor, which it could easily do in a wreck. 

 

 

 

Or better yet, use that L bracket you showed, in the spot I showed. One bolt through the floor, one through the bulkhead (holding the retractor). That would be the strongest option.  👍

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My original plan was to use chrome vinyl tape to redo the trim. It was just too much of a pain to wrap around the corners. The straight parts actually looked good, really good. The second thing is I wasn't sure how well it would hold up in the heat. I didn't get far enough to test the heat because the corners were such a pain. I tried about 4 times and then gave up. It looked ok.. but not great. So I went to plan B. I used a chrome paint pen. Not only was it 10 times easier, it actually looks great. No worries now about the heat melting the adhesive.

 

Masked it off.

 

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First panel done

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Close up of the finish, you can even see the reflection of my phone in the trim. It's not mirror finish.. maybe foggy mirror finish. lol

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Preview of it on the door.

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Edited by Draker
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I'm just waiting for a few parts to arrive from down under and then the doors will be fully buttoned up and door panels installed. 

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Planning for the 5 speed swap I wanted to pop open a fs5w60a I bought for next to nothing since when I was pulling it dumped out a bunch of water. The car was in a scrap yard and flooded out in a field. I opened it up tonight and it’s actually in pretty good shape given the amount of water that was in it. All the bearings are perfectly smooth and bare metal as you’d expect. The only rust was on a few teeth and most of wiped off with a rag. The worse spot was on the backside of tooth. not sure if I’m going to break it down any more then this. I might.. gonna get the case cleaned up and then make a decision. 
 

here are the pics:

 

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Last pic is of the worse spot I found before in scrubbed it with a wire brush. It’s probably worth tearing down to inspect the needle bearings and get the gears cleaned a little better.

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On 6/29/2020 at 12:43 AM, Draker said:

I used a chrome paint pen.

 

 

I recommend Molotow chrome pens.  I use them for my scale modelling all the time, expensive, but well worth it.

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17 minutes ago, njoz1200ute said:

 

I recommend Molotow chrome pens.  I use them for my scale modelling all the time, expensive, but well worth it.

 

Yep, nailed it. They work great!

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On 6/28/2020 at 11:43 PM, Draker said:

My original plan was to use chrome vinyl tape to redo the trim.

 

Same. 4 fails later is how I ended up with painting them...   😃

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On 6/28/2020 at 11:43 PM, Draker said:

Preview of it on the door.

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Also, cutest photobomb ever...   😂

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returned the springs today. just a bit too stiff. M
 

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Decided I’d completely disassemble the 5 speed and inspect all of the bearings, including the needle bearings. Good news is they all looked great! The countershaft bearing had some rust but it just wiped away with a cloth. It spins super smooth and no signs of any damage. I’ll hit it with some brake cleaner and see what it looks like. The case will be cleaned up inside and out. You can see he inside of the bell housing is pretty corroded.

 

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I may press that bearing off and take a better look at it. New one is cheap so might be good insurance. But it felt great 👍 

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I should send you my trans to rebuild.

 

And I forget, does this have the A12 motor still?

Do you have the plate that goes in between the block and bell housing?

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5 hours ago, KELMO said:

I should send you my trans to rebuild.

 

And I forget, does this have the A12 motor still?

Do you have the plate that goes in between the block and bell housing?

 

Has an A14 in it now, and I do have the plate. Not sure if I'll need it in the 5 speed swap though.

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They ALL use plates between the engine and the automatic or standard transmissions.

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1 minute ago, datzenmike said:

They ALL use plates between the engine and the automatic or standard transmissions.

 

Of course, but do they differ from manual vs auto. That's the question 🙂 

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1 hour ago, Draker said:

 

Of course, but do they differ from manual vs auto. That's the question 🙂 

 

No, they do not. 

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16 hours ago, Draker said:

I may press that bearing off and take a better look at it. New one is cheap so might be good insurance. But it felt great 👍 

 

I pressed it off and cleaned it up. I see a bit of discoloration in the outer race, but spins good. this bearing sits low so it would be most likely be sitting in water. It would likely be perfectly fine, but I bought a replacement. $15 insurance.. why not.

 

For anyone else looking to replace this bearing, the stock part is NSK HR6304C3. 20mm ID, 52mm OD, 15mm wide. Replaced with FAG 6304-C3.

 

 

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The 1200's fun factor will go up exponentially with a manual trans.  I drove an auto once, and that transmission sucked all of the fun right out.  Very cool that you can do your own trans work.

 

You will be much happier with the 5-spd.  👍

 

 

 

 

 

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32 minutes ago, Duncan said:

The 1200's fun factor will go up exponentially with a manual trans.  I drove an auto once, and that transmission sucked all of the fun right out.  Very cool that you can do your own trans work.

 

You will be much happier with the 5-spd.  👍

 

 

well it's not together yet.. 🤣

 

I've got a few of them under my belt already though.

 

 

Looking forward to driving it as a 5 speed though. It's so slow as it is.

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11 hours ago, Draker said:

 

Has an A14 in it now, and I do have the plate. Not sure if I'll need it in the 5 speed swap though.

The plate is just used to take up the difference in flywheel thickness between the A12 and A14 flywheel.

 

Put on the A12 flywheel, which is lighter anyways, and the plate is not needed.

 

The plate is still required for the 5 speed swap as far as I know. I guess I could go look at mine if you want a definitive answer.

Edited by Dguy210

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1 hour ago, Dguy210 said:

The plate is just used to take up the difference in flywheel thickness between the A12 and A14 flywheel.

 

Put on the A12 flywheel, which is lighter anyways, and the plate is not needed.

 

The plate is still required for the 5 speed swap as far as I know. I guess I could go look at mine if you want a definitive answer.


I think it is because I pulled it with an a14 And 5 speed. And I have all of it sitting in my shed. 

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2 hours ago, Draker said:


I think it is because I pulled it with an a14 And 5 speed. And I have all of it sitting in my shed. 

 

Which 5 speed? If it is a 63A dogleg finding a compatible driveshaft for a 1200 stock rearend is much harder.

Edit: looked through the thread guess you have an auto which is I believe actually the right driveshaft for a 63a. Although, I can't tell from the dissected pic which trans you have.

 

Edited by Dguy210

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