labman Posted February 28, 2018 Report Share Posted February 28, 2018 Thank you to Ratsun Forum. It is/was the fuse (10amp Buss) that failed. Pic is key, because I looked at the block and didn't see the classic break in the filament.Forewarned is forearmed.Looking to post more pics from our 78 210 wundermobile.Thanks,ScottLacomb Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted February 28, 2018 Report Share Posted February 28, 2018 NEVER trust a fuse. I hold a quarter across the fuse clips to identify which one, or even if it's a blown fuse, then replace it. Quote Link to comment
MikeRL411 Posted February 28, 2018 Report Share Posted February 28, 2018 NEVER trust a fuse. I hold a quarter across the fuse clips to identify which one, or even if it's a blown fuse, then replace it. If the fuse is over 40 years old, don't trust it, replace it !!! Quote Link to comment
Crashtd420 Posted February 28, 2018 Report Share Posted February 28, 2018 Thank you to Ratsun Forum. It is/was the fuse (10amp Buss) that failed. Pic is key, because I looked at the block and didn't see the classic break in the filament. Forewarned is forearmed. Looking to post more pics from our 78 210 wundermobile. Thanks, Scott Lacomb I would check what's on that circuit to be safe.. Are there any extra lights or items that are using that power source? That fuse looks like it got hot .. you can see the blue at one end.... I had that happen to me with a stereo amp.... I was pushing the system close to its limits for a while and the filament in the fuse unsoldered itself from the heat... Quote Link to comment
labman Posted February 28, 2018 Author Report Share Posted February 28, 2018 One thing we did do is replace the cluster bulbs with T10 LED, but I would have thought they would draw less current. Only one (gauge illumination) is on that circuit. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KT1BH1Q/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Have to check the rear bulbs. They're still stock. I could see a poor connection in the fuse holder would increase resistance and localize the heating. Seem pretty tight fit when pulling them out. Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted March 1, 2018 Report Share Posted March 1, 2018 All the dash lamps, heater, side marker front and rear, front 'parking' lamps, rear running lamps and the license lamp all run off that fuse. If you have an automatic the shifter is illuminated as well. If you can remove the fuse box... my 710 is wired in but you can unbolt it and hang it from the kick pad. Dunk it in a deep bowl of lemon juice and salt scrub with an old toothbrush and let soak over night. Make sure submerged. Rinse and dry in the morning. Sounds weird but look up cleaning copper bottom pans and Martha Stewart. Quote Link to comment
labman Posted March 2, 2018 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2018 Only one gauge lamp was out- the cluster illumination. 'Charge' and 'Oil' and 'High Beam' still worked. Can't say about the heater, but I wasn't cold going home in the dark. Thinking the auto shifter was dark. Have to check that- lots of bulbs out. Correct about the marker, tail, license plate lights. Running home like a bootlegger that night. The fuse block looks fine. I'll post a pic. No corrosion. The radio lamp IS in this circuit. Just replaced with T10 LED. Posting pic under separate post. Quote Link to comment
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