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R200 LSD Sanity Check


NC280z

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Greetings all,

 

I've recently installed a 3.70 R200 clutch-type LSD into my Z, and just need a sanity-check on limited slip diffs. When turning the driveshaft by hand with the car on stands I noticed that both wheels turn in the same direction (as they should), but the drivers side turns at a faster rate than the passenger side. I'm guessing that more rolling resistance on the passenger side is causing it to slip more, am I correct in thinking this? The brakes aren't dragging, and the company I purchased the diff from checked the clutch adjustment and backlash.

 

I'm chasing down a rear diff clunk that I believe is a bad driveshaft u-joint, and I noticed the aforementioned when checking everything. I've got new diff mounts/straps in place, and all the bolts are buttoned-up nice and tight so it's new u-joints for the halfshafts/driveshaft next.

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both wheels turn in the same direction (as they should), but the drivers side turns at a faster rate than the passenger side.

 

Ah, not in any clutch style R200 LSD I've ever handled.

The Nissan unit has preload springs disks that keep pressure on the plates at all times.

Did you ever open it up before installing it into the housing?

Sounds like it is worn pretty bad.

And a clunk noise may be due to wear also, as the Nissan clutch LSD has a camming effect that puts additional pressure on the plates as the ring gear exerts torque on the LSD.

If they have a lot of wear, they will clunk because the of all the extra distance they have to rotate before they tighten up.

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I've seen open diffs turn together in the same direction before.

 

 

No, essentially they are locked together if off the ground. It's tire friction with the road the forces them to slip when going round turns.

 

Try holding one while turning the other.

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So I held the passenger wheel and the driver side still turned freely, didn't feel the passenger side budge much. Also noticed that the wheels turn in reverse together at the same rate, just not at the same rate forward. I didn't think to open it up prior to installing it, as the gaskets were fresh and I didn't want to redo them. I purchased the unit from California-Datsun via eBay, now I'm guessing that I should've just gone with a decent 3.90 over this one. 

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Unfortunately I'm past the 30 day mark for the "warranty" that California Datsun has, so I may be stuck with an inoperable LSD. I'm looking at Whitehead Performance for an open 3.90 as a replacement, as I gave my old 3.54 to a fellow Datsuner.

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Well, if what you have is an actual clutch LSD, there are plates still available.

Take the LSD out, post pictures.

If you don't pull the bearings, and you don't mix the shims up, it's pretty simple to fix a worn clutch style LSD.

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I had considered that also, but all the information I've seen is pointing to a clutch-type. VLSD's in R200 longnoses are exceedingly rare, save for those few from the late z31 turbo cars. It looks like Whitehead Performance sells and rebuilds the stock Nissan clutch LSDs, so maybe they have the repair kits available. 

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Nismo LSDs use the same disks.

And they are the same as in the H190, but that doesn't help, as it's even older (or so people think).

 

Open it up, see what you find.

Then post pictures.

If the spring plates are broke, I have a couple.

If your plates are worn out of spec., I may have a couple, but I'm sure they can be bought.

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And a clunk noise may be due to wear also, as the Nissan clutch LSD has a camming effect that puts additional pressure on the plates as the ring gear exerts torque on the LSD.

If they have a lot of wear, they will clunk because the of all the extra distance they have to rotate before they tighten up.

My new R160 has a klunk. Most obvious when shifting under load.

Now I think its in the trans...

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