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NapZ in my '64 320


LKPar1270

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The sender is just a variable resistor to ground OR to positive ground. Resistance is unchanged by polarity or direction of current flow. The actual gauge will read backwards if polarity is switched, but should be ok if the gauge wires are also reversed.

My fuel gauge does not work backwards, empty is still empty even though the truck is negative ground now and no wires were changed on the gauge, but I do not know how Mike wired everything, but like I said he went by mileage on the fuel, the gauge didn't work, and when I pulled the sender the float had multiple holes in it, he also used a aftermarket temp gauge, I expect that he changed nothing on that gauge cluster wiring wise.

Like I said, when the ignition is not on, the temp needle rest on the "H", when the ignition is on it drops to the "C", I do not know what will happen to the gauge if the juice is reversed, it may smoke the gauge.

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Thanks for the feedback folks.

I have changed 5 cars (Yanky built) from 6 volt positive groung to 12 volt negitave ground and the only thing that doesnt work when doing that change is electronics (basicly the radio) and the coil, although the coil will work just not as efficently, nothing else cares about the direction the electrons are flowing.

I'll take Datzenmike's suggestion and give the 720 sender a try.

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  • 2 months later...

I`ll have to correct that last post about changing polatity, my temp guage and gas guage work backward.  Looks like the Japaneese do something different than us yanks did, should be easy to correct though.

Still looking for a hardbody drive shaft, seem to be hard to find.

 

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Do you know the temp gauge sits on full hot when the key is off, when you turn the key on it should move to the cold position when working properly.

The fuel gauge works normally when using a 320 sender, when the key is off it sits below empty, but when you turn the key on it should jump up slightly even when the tank is empty.

I tried using a 521, and 720 fuel tank sender and the gauge worked backwards, the only way I know for the gauge to work properly is to use a 320 sender or I believe it is a 1965 Datsun Roadster sender as they are the same, the thing about Roadsters is they do have aftermarket support, parts can be bought, but they are expensive.

 

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I installed a CX Racing Datsun 510 radiator in my 520 swap.

 

https://www.cxracing.com/RAD-D5

 

DSC01490_zps5a6f0ea6.jpg

 

DSC01489_zps50e6aa48.jpg

 

With a 1980 720 AC condenser installed.

DSC01488_zps67265e53.jpg

 

Grill fits fine.

DSC01487_zpsdb1a855e.jpg

 

With the Z24 engine the CX Racing Datsun 510 KA Swap radiator would put the hose ouylet and inlet on the correct side.

 

https://www.cxracing.com/products-by-car/products-by-car-nissan-datsun/products-by-car-nissan-datsun-datsun-510/products-by-car-nissan-datsun-datsun-510-ka24de-na-t/RAD-D5K

 

Check the width of the radiator as I was real close on my 520.  I have about a 1/4" clearance on each side of the radiator with the inner wheel wells.

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Wayno, it's obvious that whereever the needle sits with ignition off is just the guage default, not reading anything.  Without changing the polarity on the guages [temp and fuel] they both read opposite when I powered up and ran the engine for the first time.  Just yesterday I got around to pulling the guage cluster and saw it's a simple matter to reverse the polarity on the guages.  I suspect this will correct to reading on them, but wont know forsure for some time when I get around to reinstal it.

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https://www.dropbox.com/s/u9pxnas4ke1y7xj/20180531_161405-1.jpg?dl=0

I used a radiator for a 2000 Honda Civic, the 510 radiator is a little too wide. And, I would love to have room for an AC unit, but there's no room left.

I was able to rework the stock air cleaner to fit the weber carb and still be able to close the hood!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/6ojfvoj6idubs49/20180624_185359-1.jpg?dl=0

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Again, it's been a while since I've been on here.  I can't believe my luck with finding a drive shaft.  I have read that I can only use the slip joint from a late '86 to '89 hardbody.  My son called me a few weeks ago and said he found a guy that had an 86 720 parting out, and he has the drive shaft.  Just for kicks I took measurements of the output shaft on my transmission, he measured this guys and came up with exactly the same measurements and spline count except it had 2 'dead' splines.  He got it for 50 bucks and sent it to me.  that thing fits perfectly, the only thing I had to do is put in one new universal and build a mount for the carrier bearing, which ended up right over the center cross member.  have excellent distance for slip joint movement and 4 degrees down angle on each shaft at static load.  Cool!

https://www.dropbox.com/s/wp2o5eojmiitp4i/20181125_154328.jpg?dl=0

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  • 4 months later...

I made my first test drive in Feburary, damn those brakes suck, and everything in them are new, master, slave cylinders springs, all new.  I can't live with that, so I put disks on the front.  Will change to either more modern drums or disks in the back soon.

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/qi4ilflcppuj26o/AAACMX20DUSlpZNYnrx43Ltya?dl=0

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Everything has to be adjusted correctly for the brakes not to suck, the rear brakes really don't need to be changed, they basically are the same thru 1982.

I have Mikes disc brake kit on all my 320s and they are fine but still have the kingpins, I don't drive mine enough to spend a shitload of money upgrading them, I drove my 521 with drum brakes in the front till around 2002, but it became my work truck and needed better brakes.

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I plan on using my 320 to tow my hot rod to shows.  With that extra ton of rolling stock behind me, good brakes are essential.  I looked at available disks for these trucks, and thought I could build them just as good myself and not have to use 17 inch wheels.  I did just that, although they won't quite clear the stock wheels, they will easily clear 15s and not drastically change the look.

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  • 4 months later...

Good choice. Almost zero maintenance, no adjusting, fewer parts to go bad, easy to change pads. Stops about the same as well adjusted drums BUT can absorb extreme emergency stops or continued punishment that would cause fade on drum brakes.

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That is weird, I can see both of them, they are of your BFGoodrich Radial T/A mounted on your left front, the color of the rim is slightly different than the color of the fender, I used your dropbox link, I believe I copied the image and pasted it in the field, I will try the image link address this time.

 

p.jpeg?fv_content=true&size_mode=5

 

Below I copied and pasted just the image again, can you see either of these photos?p.jpeg?fv_content=true&size_mode=5

Edited by wayno
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