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Demonwolf141

New ratsun 720

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Hello all, newbie here. Thought I'd share a new beginning and love.

 

Six months ago I purchased a new to me 82 Datsun 720, standard cab, 2wd. The truck ran ROUGH, but plugs/wires/cap/rotor and a new 38/38 Weber set her right. Fortunately for me the seller also had a mangled 84's 5 speed for a painless upgrade, and so it was upgraded from 4 to 5 forward gears. Aside from needing some minor-ish rust repair... A set of 225/70/14 shoes seemed in order (oversized, I know).

 

My question; when all indicators say up-to 29 inch tires should work.... Why do My 26.5s rub? How do I fix it? And... Have I already f'd up?

 

I want to lift it, maybe an inch but nothing crazy... to be a pretty, fun, curb queen and daily driver. I'm no mini trucker or offroader but this lil monster is growing on me.

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Stock tire (195/75R14) diameter should be 25.5" and 225/70R14s are 26.5". That's only 1/2" all the way round but also a fat inch wider so 1/2" closer to the suspension but I think it should still fit if it has factory rims. If replaced, the offset may be all wrong..

 

The 29" is for the 4x4 trucks which sit much higher than the 2wd. For an inch you can turn the front torsion bars up but any adjustment in height also affects the toe in. If raised it's best to adjust the toe to keep tire wear down and handling properly. Someone may have already lowered it.

 

If you look under the cab, find the long torsion bars running forwards to the rear side of lower control arm. On the front side is a bolt head in line with the torsion bar. If the truck is set at the proper ride height it should be 4.65 to 4.8" to the ground with the truck on level ground.

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Where do they rub, when you are turning, the back frame, hitting the front/rear fenders?

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Thank you for the much welcomed info Mike, I believe it's bone stock until I started meddling. Quick question about the torsion bars, will cranking them hard enough for a light lift damage/hinder stock ball joints?

 

As far as rub location goes, it's hitting the idler arm body on the right front before reaching full lock. Fender clearance is good. An idea I had was possibly rim spacers, but I was hoping to stay under the body without flares or trimming fenders.

 

The vision: roll panned, rear bumper deleted, custom tail lights, pacesetter header, 2" exhaust to tail (no cat), Weber carb(done),5 speed(done), limited slip dif, lifted slightly for aggressive looking all-terrain tred... Bucket seat conversion from bench and enough audio to deafen the standard cab. All for a curb queen toy after shiny midnight blue pearl paint.

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86 the pace setter headers and use the money to go 2.25 inch exhaust. Also the LSDs are not super easy to come by or cheap, check out clumsy birds thread for a bit of discussion on this (720 section "layman's guide to a beater").

 

You will also want to re-torque your headbolts, adjust your valve lash (I have u tube videos on these topics), consider replacing antifreeze and lower hose rad hose.

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 Only the Z24 needs the re-torque but there's no harm doing it on the Z22.

 

If at stock height and stock rims and tires nothing should rub. Maybe post a picture.

 

Check the ground clearance I posted. It may have been lowered so what you may be doing is just putting it back where it belongs. An inch above where it should be, probably won't hurt anything but maxing out the lift will introduce camber that can't be adjusted for and this will just wear the tires out. What about a 2" body lift? Body moves higher but suspension, steering and frame stay where they are.

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The ST trucks with the factory alloy wheels ran 205/75R14s

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