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1970 S30 Nissan FairladyZ "S30 LDY"


five1oh

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So I bought the adjustable camber/toe bushings but realized they contacted the stock rear end bracket so I didn't run them.  Since I have adjustable LCA's I should be able to get the adjustment needed there.

 

46497556764_20e37fd177_k.jpgUntitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr

 

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Since I am switching to triple mikuni 40's and exhaust I started to document where the factory vacuum/coolant lines go.  Also since my car has factory NISSAN installed AC I wanted to leave alone what I could.  I will no longer need the manual choke lines or the factory throttle control solenoid for the AC so I removed it and made sure I was able to hook the vacuum lines up to my future setup.  Unfortunately the header I purchased WILL NOT fit due to the factory AC compressor and lines being in the way.  The good news is that I still needed a header for my skyline so I will be keeping it ?

 

I cleaned up the engine bay the best I could and am very close to being able to install header and carbs once the header arrives.  Can't wait!

 

47168915592_72dc4a6ec1_k.jpgUntitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr

 

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So I will be switching the factory valve cover out with the BIG letter valve cover so I decided to clean it up.  While cleaning it I noticed that there was a hole in it.  Last night I went over to my friend Ralph's and he welded it up.  Sadly I have no pictures of the repair and it is already being powder coated.  While I was there I also used his media blaster to blast the front brake shields and rear brake backing plates.  They are also currently being powder coated.

 

46306507275_c0ac739327_k.jpgUntitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr

 

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The hardware is what came with the parts from T3 and they claim it's plated.  The button head bolts that attach the TC rod to the LCA were not used. The TC's came with longer bolts that were plated but aren't in these pics. You will see the correct hardware in my updated pics. However the solid pillow ball uppers came with stainless button head bolts that mount through the strut tower to the pillow ball. Should I replace these? Why would T3 sell parts that could fail easily?

 

i have never been a huge fan of their hardware but they sell hundreds of these kits every year and I haven't heard of failures. Should I be concerned?

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10 minutes ago, five1oh said:

The hardware is what came with the parts from T3 and they claim it's plated.  The button head bolts that attach the TC rod to the LCA were not used. The TC's came with longer bolts that were plated but aren't in these pics. You will see the correct hardware in my updated pics. However the solid pillow ball uppers came with stainless button head bolts that mount through the strut tower to the pillow ball. Should I replace these? Why would T3 sell parts that could fail easily?

 

i have never been a huge fan of their hardware but they sell hundreds of these kits every year and I haven't heard of failures. Should I be concerned?

 

The button head bolts in this pic are the ones I'd be concerned about (TC rod to LCA, balljoint), but if you didn't end up using them and are using 8.8 or 10.9 bolts, then carry on.  The strut top bolts don't see nearly as much shear load as the TC rod bolts or others located right around the spindle/ball joint.

 

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33 minutes ago, thisismatt said:

 

The button head bolts in this pic are the ones I'd be concerned about (TC rod to LCA, balljoint), but if you didn't end up using them and are using 8.8 or 10.9 bolts, then carry on.  The strut top bolts don't see nearly as much shear load as the TC rod bolts or others located right around the spindle/ball joint.

 

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Thanks matt. Yes I did not use those.

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Getting closer! So I realized that I messed up in the rear so I pulled the struts and my friend Red has a press and the proper tools. We need to remove the wheel bearings from the struts and install them with the stub axles. They should be done in the next couple days but I'm so happy how the backing plate powder coating turned out:

 

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I pretty much finished the front of the car. New tie rods have been installed, I removed the old wheel bearings from the hubs and wire brushed the surface rust and painted the hubs. I also wire brushed and painted the calipers but I still have to install them. To finish off the front I installed the freshly powder coated brake shields and pressed in new bearings and reinstalled the hubs/discs:

 

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So when I went through my skyline stuff I ran across a factory flashlight that I had bought years ago for the hako. On the Facebook fairlady group someone posted a pic of a flashlight so I just had to pull mine out and put it in the Z. Looks good ?

 

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So after a couple months of crazy (had a baby boy (3rd kid) on 3/11) I am back at it and VERY CLOSE to getting my Z back on the ground.  I can't wait!!!!! I have been missing being able to drive this for a long time.  Also I am looking forward to having more space in my garage.

 

First up my spare hatch is getting done.  So the series 1 hatch I got was destroyed and thankfully Eric had a decent 280 hatch that we are modifying into a series 1 hatch.  Thankfully they weigh the same amount and the only differences are hatch vents and the shock is only on 1 side so Eric is making it all good:

 

40823590293_a45745b6a0_z.jpgUntitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr

 

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Not sure if I mentioned this already but one of my engine block mounts had a bolt head sheared off.  With the exhaust out of the car I knew we needed to take care of it:

 

I drilled a hole into the existing bolt and my buddy welded a bolt head to it and we were able to pull it out.

 

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I cleaned up the motor after the bolt was removed in preparation for the new fujitsobo header.

 

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I had to modify the fujitsobo header to clear the water inlet but it's on now and looks so good :)

 

I got the only fuel rail that datsun spirit had and then I took it to my friend's to have them strip it and reanodize it gold.

 

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Exhaust DONE!!!

 

Cleaned up the rear tail panel while everything was off.

 

47455397302_5c1f74bfad_k.jpgUntitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr

 

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Correct month sticker for Blue/Yellow plates installed:

 

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Edited by five1oh
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So my brakes are finally done just need to bleed them.  Because my car is going to be low I had to find a front brake line that was 14.5 inches instead of the stock 11 inches to be safe from binding.  My rear brake kit came from zcarsource and unfortunately they sent me two left rear wheel cylinders but I was able to return the extra one and get the correct one on the car last night.  Once brakes were on I decided to adjust for desired ride height.  

 

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I received my temp sending unit and was able to install the new thermostat and water inlet.  In addition I finally sanded and installed my valve cover.  Next up is running the fuel line tonight.  I have some carb insulators coming on Thursday and then I should be able to mount the carbs.  Getting so close can't wait to hear the difference.

 

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Love the Progress on this! and Congrats on the Newest Family Member! 

 

With how low you are, How much clearance do you think the Stacked Tip Muffler will Have to the ground? 

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16 hours ago, Spoona_Jay21 said:

Love the Progress on this! and Congrats on the Newest Family Member! 

 

With how low you are, How much clearance do you think the Stacked Tip Muffler will Have to the ground? 

Thanks!  No clue until I get it on the ground.....  pretty sure my exhaust may be scraping the ground but I am hoping I have at least 1 inch.  Will post pics once I am able to get it on the ground.

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