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First Datsun

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Yeah, I just found this. I'll watch closely while reassembling to see if I can discern exactly where the "thrower" is fed oil from. Keep in mind guys, the person I bought the truck from has had it sitting in it's current state for about a year. Said he had already put a new chain on it, so it probably hasn't had any oil to it yet. Likely the reason for it's dry/rusted appearance...

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My block obviously has the boss for it. For some reason it has a brass plug (I assume brass lol), rather than the aforementioned jet...

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Probably like the oil gallery plugs. Very soft steel hammered in like a rivitt.

 

I have never seen that chain oil squirter before on anything I have ever owned, I have nothing on my property with it, I have a couple L20b blocks, one Z20 block, 2 Z22 blocks, and one 1986 Z24 block that I just looked at.

The mentioned Z24 block.

DSCN7606.jpg

 

Well that's interesting wayno. I guess some do and some don't. My 84 FSM shows it. I have a Z22 block and it doesn't. Seen lots where the timing chain has sawed half way through them.

 

A lot of oil gets thrown off by the valve train, lots would get on the chain. Maybe the tensioner dribbles enough on it?

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Okay, fellers... Headed to the parts store. What kind of oil, filter, and spark plugs do these things like?

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Rotella or delo 15-40 diesel oil is what i run in mine, as do many other guys. Still high in zinc which is needed to lubricate the flat tappet cam. Normal oils have had this removed in the past 10 years.

 

Plugs just go ngk factory grade

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Cool. Should be digging into this thing in an hour or 2. I'll buy a pack of shop rags so I can take plenty pics lol. Any requests?

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This is for the Z24 but check for the Z22..... BPR6ES for intake and BPR5ES for the exhaust side. NGK heat ranges go cooler as the number goes down.

 

Today's oils are reduced to at least half what it used to be and seems to go down every year. ZDDP is not good for the new catalytic converters and all engines now are roller cams and don't need as much anti scuff protection. Makers say it's fine with older engines but I don't believe it. For piece of mind just walk a few feet farther to the Chevron Delo 400 or the Shell Rotella T4. There are others sold as racing oils that are also ok but diesel oils are everywhere. Wear doesn't happen over night, but it adds up...

 

AlI8XOe.jpg

 

 

 

Filter NAPA or Wix, anything but fram.

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I've seen plunger wear like that, but it's usually because the plunger popped out of the tensioner block when someone had the timing chain loose, then not realizing their mistake, forced the chain back on and ran it.

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hopefully the timming kit is a Japanese made one. they will have the brite links to help time the chain to the cam sprockets,

 

some L blocks don't have the oil squirted. Somebody told me the z cars didn't come with them

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Sooo.... Intake cam lobe at 10 and exhaust at 2? Or was it the other way around? Lmao

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No that a rough setting of TDC compression stroke fro an L series. I can tell by looking at this...

 

OYpSsyo.jpg

 

.... that the cam is set on the #2 position at top so it is timed close enough for now. 

 

If replacing the chain take it off. Check that the crank sprocket has a dot at about the 4 o'clock position... this is close enough. Do NOT rotate the crank, just adjust the dot position. Put the chain on with the bright links on the sprocket teeth (crank and cam) with the dots on them. The picture above looks like it has dark color lings, whatever. If no marked links count 38 links between dots and install. If the bright links match the dots and you are on cam hole #2 you're good. Put the chain guides on, shoving the right side one as far to the driver's side as you can to remove as much slack as possible. This will keep the tensioner from having to extend as much and tighten, then install the tensioner.

.

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So, the number "2" should be level with the valve cover mating surface on the head or at 3 o'clock, basically? Eating lunch, getting as detailed info as I can while I do, and should be a breeze when I get out there.....after 24 hours without sleep already lol.... Hopefully, it'll only take a few hours

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Nevermind. Forgot, I didn't take this thing apart. Literally going to have to figure out each individual bolt's place LMFAO!!!

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The sprocket and cam are properly in place (CLOSE ENOUGH) so it's assumed that the crank is too. So if replacing the chain just remove and do as I said in the above post.

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what you can do.

1) is lower the oil pan so youll be ready to put the front cover back on.

 

most like lkey you only need the slack side guide and the tensioner to make this good.

 

put the front cover on loosely and ut the crank pully back on and you can time it to TDC.

if your chain had the brite links you can makk them with paint. turn the motor clockwise till the brite link match up with the dimples on the cam and crank sprockets, If might take 4 revolutions to get this but it makes it simple to under stand. I don't use them anymore unless on a brand new set up. I just use the marks on cam sprocket cam tower and the crank oully and when It lines up I know Im good. then I take te front cover back off and put the gasketets and sealer on before fine lock up.

 

 

remember to not diassaemnle until the motor is at TDC other wise piston and valve will be off if you move them later.

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