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SUPER_YOCOM

Fuel gauge light could be better

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My 84 720 fuel gauge is not lit up enough to see the needle without really getting close at night and I can barely tell then.The temps is not right but not as bad.Speedo is good.Any thoughts?Would any of you know the bulb size and type?---The covers are all oem and good shape.

Thanks,Yocom

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Leds. Probably 194 type.

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U27tQet.jpg

 

 

Probably bulb out. I think the 720 uses the small ones on the left..

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inside the cluster the is also a little dust cap that has white paint on top and takes away from the brightness and also is has a little cap above that i cut those off on my cluster for a brighter look 

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My 620 was that way also, I scraped the paint off but it still wasn't bright enough.

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anyone have a link to a forum with pictures on how to remove dash and cluster so I can check out the wiring behind? The PO had chopped the old radio wires i noticed when putting my new headset in and i know there are live wires just taped shut and i want to make sure that nothing shorts out etc. and i want to check my tach issue as well to see if its just a bad wire or whatever

Heres a pic of a gauge i found online rq
Screenshot_20180224-100213.png

And any input on my temp gauge? heres the low down..
at normal op temp it sits right in between the two lines down by the "C". And usually never moves from that spot until after driving up a big hill the max the gauge will go is just under half way. (Never gone above the 2nd squiggly line on the gauge. Any ideas if it is fixable/replaceable or what is going on or i should just live with it? I have a heat gun that I havn't gotten around to testing the temperature because the alt issue -.-

Truck has never had any overheating problems that I know of. Only overheating problem ive had was the Hot days issue of I think what was fuel boiling / cut out issue that im not sure is fixed yet due to the whole thread i made that some of you responded to.(going to try and not rant about it lol)

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I haven't seen a write up on here, but dash removal is in the FSM. The cluster is pretty easy to get out though. There are two screws facing upwards on the upper part of the black cluster bezel, and two clips on the bottom that hold it in; pull straight out and take your time so you don't break them. Under the bezel there are like four screws that hold the cluster in place. Disconnect all the plugs (don't bother marking as they are unique to each spot, and disconnect the speedo cable (see this for what it looks like). The job is easier when you remove the steering column cover as well. 

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I haven't seen a write up on here, but dash removal is in the FSM. The cluster is pretty easy to get out though. There are two screws facing upwards on the upper part of the black cluster bezel, and two clips on the bottom that hold it in; pull straight out and take your time so you don't break them. Under the bezel there are like four screws that hold the cluster in place. Disconnect all the plugs (don't bother marking as they are unique to each spot, and disconnect the speedo cable (see this for what it looks like). The job is easier when you remove the steering column cover as well. 

Alright idk why i didnt think of my manual (lazy i guess) thanks for the thread link and tips. I did attempt to take the cluster out before but i felt it tugging on the plugs and i didn't want to stretch a wire or pull a pin out or something stupid so i put the screws back in and let it be. I guess what im looking for is a step by step method to taking out something simple lol. I also want to open the cluster to diagnose if i can fix the trip odo as I pushed it in one day and i think the spring or whatever it pushes against fell out or busted -.- Just noticed by reading that thread that u dealt with the same exact problem I am dealing with lol at least im not the only one and now i got a project to do tomorrow because i got no parts lined up to sell :(

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anyone have a link to a forum with pictures on how to remove dash and cluster so I can check out the wiring behind? The PO had chopped the old radio wires i noticed when putting my new headset in and i know there are live wires just taped shut and i want to make sure that nothing shorts out etc. and i want to check my tach issue as well to see if its just a bad wire or whatever

 

 

 

And any input on my temp gauge? heres the low down..

at normal op temp it sits right in between the two lines down by the "C". And usually never moves from that spot until after driving up a big hill the max the gauge will go is just under half way. (Never gone above the 2nd squiggly line on the gauge. Any ideas if it is fixable/replaceable or what is going on or i should just live with it? I have a heat gun that I haven't gotten around to testing the temperature because the alt issue -.-

 

Truck has never had any overheating problems that I know of. Only overheating problem ive had was the Hot days issue of I think what was fuel boiling / cut out issue that im not sure is fixed yet due to the whole thread i made that some of you responded to.(going to try and not rant about it lol)

 

 

You only need to remove the gauge cluster not the dash. Look up behind the steering wheel at top of cluster there are two? or three screws. Take out and it tilts towards you. Be sure to u-clip the speedometer cable as soon as you can reach it. Take your time everything comes out even with the steering wheel in the way.

 

 

Temp Gauge...

 

The temp sender is just below the thermostat on the intake where the rad hose comes out. The wire to it is Yellow/Black stripe. Hold that wire against the intake to ground it. With the ignition ON if the gauge goes all the way up to FULL HOT then the wiring and gauge are working just fine. Check that this wire is tightly connected to the sender and making good contact. If no change... this means that either the sender is bad or the engine is actually running cold.

 

 

Whenever there is a hint of a temp reading problem, (real or imagined) I always say replace the thermostat. Get a good one for $10 or more, not the $1.99 Wall Mart shit. Get a gasket too and just replace it. Remove the thermostat and you may find it jammed open. Problem solved. My 710 ran cold when I got it. A previous owner had replaced the thermostat with one that when it fails it fails in the open position, great. I threw it in the ditch and got a proper one. Temp gauge reads just north of the half way mark now.

 

With the thermostat replaced if the cold reading is still there, the sender is likely bad.

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