gmkeegan Posted May 17, 2018 Report Share Posted May 17, 2018 What kind of transmission are you running ? if its not stock what is it out of ? thanks Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted May 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 17, 2018 What kind of transmission are you running ? if its not stock what is it out of ? thanks I forget what the number is but it is the desirable Nissan 280zx 5 speed with the overdrive 5th gear. Since my shell was stock automatic the hole lined up perfectly. No cutting required :) 1 Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted May 21, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 21, 2018 So I ordered some parts I need for the 510 before I tear the motor back down to the block to replace the head gasket and surface the head. While waiting for parts I started tackling the small things again. Here is a pic of my Watanabe Falcon steering wheel and horn button mocked up. I bought this wheel for my hakosuka but while I wait for that car to get done I thought it would be nice to run it in the 510. I bought the wheel and had it recovered in black Alcantara with red stitching and center stripe. Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr I also removed the stickers from the drivers side 1/4 window: Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr In addition I finally replaced the hardware on my SSS coupe fold down rear seat and fabbed the upper mounts to work. I still need to adjust them a little bit and modify the door cards to fit but I am very happy with the result: Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr 1 Quote Link to comment
Japrnoo Posted May 22, 2018 Report Share Posted May 22, 2018 Engine bay looks so great ! Keep it up man! 6/5 2 Quote Link to comment
WAGON JON Posted May 24, 2018 Report Share Posted May 24, 2018 Killer build! The engine is an L-20 B with a cam and head work? Does that header work for left hand drive cars or does it hit the steering box? Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted May 25, 2018 Report Share Posted May 25, 2018 Does that header work for left hand drive cars or does it hit the steering box? Dude... You already know the answer to that... ^_^ Look at this photo, and then go look at where your steering box is. 2 Quote Link to comment
Tedman Posted May 27, 2018 Report Share Posted May 27, 2018 Most excellent build! Love the cactus green, and that you are keeping it L-series. A few comments from the peanut gallery: What did Troy say about your tie rod installation? I notice you have all the shims on top of the steering arm. You might need to move some under the steering arm to make the tie rods parallel to the lower control arms. A good alignment shop will adjust the shim stack to minimize bumpsteer. Also, your motor may be tipped back a little. On my '72 floor shift automatic to 280ZX 5 spd conversion, even though the shifter ears came up centered in the factory cutout, I had to cut the tunnel forward of the shifter about 6" to fully clear the trans. This is with a Design Products (DP Racing) modified tranny crossmember and 510 tranny insulator. It might also explain what looks like (from your pics) to be a fair amount of clearance between the header collector pipe and the trans crossmember, especially if the pipe is angled down. I would expect that the header was designed for the collector pipe to be level. Just a couple things you might want to check. You've got a damn nice build going! Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted May 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 Most excellent build! Love the cactus green, and that you are keeping it L-series. A few comments from the peanut gallery: What did Troy say about your tie rod installation? I notice you have all the shims on top of the steering arm. You might need to move some under the steering arm to make the tie rods parallel to the lower control arms. A good alignment shop will adjust the shim stack to minimize bumpsteer. Also, your motor may be tipped back a little. On my '72 floor shift automatic to 280ZX 5 spd conversion, even though the shifter ears came up centered in the factory cutout, I had to cut the tunnel forward of the shifter about 6" to fully clear the trans. This is with a Design Products (DP Racing) modified tranny crossmember and 510 tranny insulator. It might also explain what looks like (from your pics) to be a fair amount of clearance between the header collector pipe and the trans crossmember, especially if the pipe is angled down. I would expect that the header was designed for the collector pipe to be level. Just a couple things you might want to check. You've got a damn nice build going! Thanks Tedman! Your car is ultra clean!!!! Thanks for the tips....I admit I have some adjustment to do on the tie rods....haven't had a chance yet but it will be addressed, I was more concerned about it contacting the wheel but it should be ok. I still have to swap front springs to raise the car up and then I will have my hands full trying to get it aligned. On the tranny note I looked under the car and see what you are talking about. It does appear to be in contact but I'm running Troy's tranny mount and it is cinched all the way up. I will loosen it back and see if there is more cutting I need to do. Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted May 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 So I received my coupe dash harness from Craig Ford last week (thanks!!!!) and had a chance to put it in yesterday. I used the engine room harness I already had in the car(JDM SSS sedan) but once everything was hooked up I didn't seem to get headlights or signals working so I have some diagnosing to do. Craig also shipped me an engine room harness from a coupe so I may need to swap it out. Here are the pics of the dash :) Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted May 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 Took a couple pics of the underside I thought were cool....so many nice parts Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr 3 Quote Link to comment
kgc10 Posted May 30, 2018 Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 That trans is clean. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
RandyWanger Posted May 30, 2018 Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 Found this thread this morning and have spent a sick day from work reading it. Inspirational, I really need to get out into the garage and crack on with my Coupe. I could use some friends like yours. Erics work looks awesome. I know you said wiring wasn't your thing, but I was wondering if you could try make a diagram for the sequential flashers? I have them in my Coupe but without the harness and the wiring in my car isn't factory so I'm at a loss as to where to begin. Keep it up, love where you're going with this. Now off to read about your Hako. 2 Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted May 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 30, 2018 Found this thread this morning and have spent a sick day from work reading it. Inspirational, I really need to get out into the garage and crack on with my Coupe. I could use some friends like yours. Erics work looks awesome. I know you said wiring wasn't your thing, but I was wondering if you could try make a diagram for the sequential flashers? I have them in my Coupe but without the harness and the wiring in my car isn't factory so I'm at a loss as to where to begin. Keep it up, love where you're going with this. Now off to read about your Hako. I can't promise anything but will try. I NEED to finish this car first though. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE update your build thread! I saw your flickr account and we need updates.....it has been 4 years! Get motivated! 1 Quote Link to comment
datsunfreak Posted June 2, 2018 Report Share Posted June 2, 2018 if you could try make a diagram for the sequential flashers? I have them in my Coupe but without the harness and the wiring in my car isn't factory so I'm at a loss as to where to begin. My advice? Start somewhere like here... ^_^ https://www.ebay.com/itm/Universal-3-Step-Sequential-Chase-Flash-Module-Boxes-For-Car-Turn-Signal-Light/142680629281?hash=item21386da021:g:i10AAOSw-W9bBGW8:sc:USPSFirstClass!76017!US!-1 There have been many advancements made in the last 40+ years in sequential turn signals. :thumbup: Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted June 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2018 So a couple days ago we took the head off. In preparation for reassembly I ordered a new head gasket, new ARP head bolts, and some better plug wires as the ones I had were falling apart. Once the head was removed it appears that the head gasket was the issue. I could feel bumps all over on the holes they put in the gasket to make it work. Because I purchased it from a reputable shop I was very dissappointed. I felt they rushed the modifications and it is what caused the issue. The water was leaking out of the side of the block on 1, 2, and 4 which doesn't point to a warped head. Either way while the head is off I am going to do a minor surfacing to make sure. In addition we will be modifying the new gasket very carefully. On to the pics. The cylinder walls have been cleaned and everything is ready to go once I get the head back. In addition my friend bent up the new exhaust and the next task is mocking up and cutting to fit. I will be using two V-band clamps to assemble the exhaust. Getting closer! Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted June 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2018 So when installing my transmission I noticed that the transmission bracket I got from Troy did not line up with the existing holes on the car. I know that it worked perfectly on WANABRE and also noticed it appears that there was room for two holes closer to the engine bay. I was going to drill the holes out and install nuts and bolts but my friend Peter talked me out of it. He said since you already have the two holes near the rear of the car why not just cut the tabs off the bracket and weld them on the otherside. Of course since he offered to weld them I agreed as I did not want to make unnecessary holes in the car. From what I gather since this car was an automatic with a longer transmission from the factory I am assuming that is the reason the welded bolts and mounts are in different spots. Needless to say we got the modification done and I will install tonight as I wanted the paint to dry: Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Another HUGE step was made as Peter helped me bleed the brakes! NO leaks either! So happy! :thumbup: Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr In addition Peter drilled out the spot welds on the LHD pedal mounts! Still need to grind down and paint but juiced that once I finally can afford carpet there won't be these ugly blocks underneath it: Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted June 5, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 5, 2018 So because I went for the coupe rear seat I needed to drill holes near the C pillar to mount the brackets that hold the seat while it is in the upright position. My modification made in an earlier post that pushes the bracket out from the panel worked perfectly but I still needed to modify the rear door cards to fit and not interfere with the bracket mounts. I got that done last night as well as installing my new front door cards. Interior is looking better each day. Still a bunch to do to finish but I am LOVING where it is headed: Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr 3 Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted June 6, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 6, 2018 Bracket on Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr 3 Quote Link to comment
datsuntech Posted June 6, 2018 Report Share Posted June 6, 2018 Your trans is missing a bolt. Edit: Nevermind, that's a dowel pin. :blush: Bracket onUntitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted June 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 So being the idiot I am I finally replaced my engine room harness. The good news was I got the lights to work however I am still trying to get the taillights working properly. Anyways, while testing it I am not sure why I hooked up the starter but needless to say I did............and then I even turned the key too far and cranked the motor over a bit................ :no: :bye: so stupid. Tried to move it back to TDC and check the chain but it was off so now the front cover and everything has to be redone........ While the cover was off we noticed the belt tensioner was contacting the cover so I trimmed it to fit better upon reassembly. Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Prior to removing the front cover I drained the oil and am able to save it. I also scraped off the old gasket material and prepared the engine for reassembly. I also bagged and labeled everything nicely along with cleaning off my workspace so reassembly can go smoothly. Now I am off to get the head checked and surfaced if necessary and get a new gasket. Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr 1 Quote Link to comment
hobospyder Posted June 11, 2018 Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 oh man, if i were the one storing that wrench there something terrible would happen. but that's just me, i see in other pictures it's no longer there Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted June 11, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 11, 2018 So I finally got to try out my new chrome paint pen. WOW! Will definitely be doing my pillar vents soon. Got this sweet plate frame years ago. Stripped it down and repainted the black. The letters would not shine up and actually looked kind of black. The paint pen worked amazing: Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr by five1oh2010, on Flickr And after the paint pen: by five1oh2010, on Flickr 3 Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted June 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 So yesterday I finished creating the gas tank plate and cut out the speaker tray. I had picked up two half sheets of MDF a couple months ago and was finally able to complete the project. I was surprised because I didn't have a template to use but managed to get the speaker tray fitting with ONLY ONE cut!! I used the C-Pillar finishers to get the angle right and then used a tape measure over a few spots and then free-handed the rest. Once the speaker tray was cut I used the top of a pizza box (thank you costco) to create a template for the lower section: Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr 2 Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted June 12, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2018 Because I have the fold down rear seat I wanted to make the block off plate match the rest of the interior. While I would love to put a design in like the door panels I am not that talented! I had some black vinyl left over from the section under the rear window. I was disappointed that I did not have enough to cover both pieces so I decided to cover the backing plate first. As you can see from the pictures above I cut it to fit in the little pocket around the wheel wells which means the only way I can squeeze it in is by bending it. Additionally I ran it so low that it is impossible to access the seat belt bolts with it installed. Because of all this I decided to cover it first since I would have to assemble things in order for them to work and I didn't want to take it in and out a bunch of times. I have some foam pad left over from the headliner but thought this piece would look better with no padding. I still haven't figured out if I am going to pad the speaker tray but in order to finish that I need to pick up more vinyl. To assemble I used 3M spray adhesive and then used a pair of scissors and contact cement for the material that folds over. SUPER HAPPY with how it turned out and now I can't wait to get more vinyl to finish the speaker tray and lower vertical areas by the carpet. Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr 4 Quote Link to comment
five1oh Posted June 14, 2018 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2018 So I had some time to work on the 510 today. The focus was to clean up the wiring and get the dash finished. I started by shortening the positive battery cable and getting the battery in the battery box. I also sanded down some paint under the negative ground cable and re-secured it. I then got the dome light cables attached and tested it. I also reinstalled my license plate and frame :) Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr Untitled by five1oh2010, on Flickr 1 Quote Link to comment
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