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Str8jacket

Project Storage tub.

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The only thing I can think of right now is a plate that sits on top of the velocity stacks that has a flair going down into each stack to make it self centering, it could even be an upside down bowl with a lip to sit the air filter on around the outside, but when the hood is lifted it needs to just come off without having to undo anything or be connected to the hood itself.

I see engine movement as an issue with anything connected to the hood, it just looks so good without a cover on them.

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20171218_180220.jpg

 

 

Not much achieved today. Lots of standing and measuring. In the end i just made something to see what it would look like.

 

Think im going to try build the air filter box into the bonnet and have a high density rubber seal sit on the flat face on my plate on top the carbs. See if i get time tommorrow to do some more.

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OK, what I was imagining was what you have there sort of, the outside base remains where it is, but the center sits on top of the stacks instead of being bolted to the base, then six slightly smaller holes than the top of the stacks are drilled in the plate over every stack, then each hole is put over a copy of the stack made out of stronger metal, then basically a metal ball almost the same size as the top of the stack is pushed down onto the stack creating lip that matches the stack inner profile, now with all six holes having that lip it will self center when set on the top of the velocity stacks.

That piece can be made separately, the outer angled square ring that matches the air filter could be held in position, then the gap around all 4 sides could be filled in, now you have the lower housing and the filter in position, now all you need to make is the cover that matches the hood cowl and air filter.

I am not there to see what would hold the complete air filter housing in position, but if you can make that manifold, you can make a air filter housing that is removable like I just described, it might be a little squared off looking, but when you pop the hood you just remove it completely and the rest can be seen in all its glory.

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I sort of get what you are saying, have the assembly essentially a 3 peice deal, a base attached to the carbs, a center section that i can remove when the bonnets up to show off and the piece attached to the bonnet.

 

Dramas I had today, trying to ensure the top of carb is sealed where the holes for the bowl and float etc see atmospheric pressure.

 

the arc the assembly needs to travel on the bonnet due to the hinge. needs to clear trumpets etc.

 

Can you draw a rough picture so I can get my head round what you are suggesting?

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WOW SICK INTAKE. The first one i was like, "eh" the second time around...nailed it. 

 

That is a fast build so far! Keep up the good solid work. 

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I'd probably go for a 6-pack air filter setup like on the Chrysler 440's.  A clear plexiglass lid would look super cool.  You can likely form your round air filter to go oval?  

 

Great work!!!  Please keep posting!

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WOW SICK INTAKE. The first one i was like, "eh" the second time around...nailed it. 

 

That is a fast build so far! Keep up the good solid work. 

Thanks WallRocket, the first one didnt look that bad in real life, just photographed poorly! bit like me really.

 

The build needs to be faster! it is technically my daily driver. I have stolen a mates work hack for now while this one was "temporarily indisposed".

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I'd probably go for a 6-pack air filter setup like on the Chrysler 440's.  A clear plexiglass lid would look super cool.  You can likely form your round air filter to go oval?  

 

Great work!!!  Please keep posting!

That is essentially the filter I had ordered, the monster is what turned up, you are right though it does form to an oval nicely so I thought bugger it this will work. Way over kill!

I have been designing filter boxes all night instead of sleeping and have come to the conclusion I may have to just get it on the road and build something pretty later on. 

 

See what I can get done today but I think it is just going to be similar to the six pack set up you mentioned, I want to have the filter in the scoop and completely blocked off / sealed from the engine bay. A mate did say he had some lexan or polycarbonite sheet at home, that might be the bit of bling for now. 

 

I really like the idea of the filter in the hood but I have only got 2mm alloy sheet and i think it may end up weighing to much. just not sure on how to reliably seal the top of the carbs and the trumpets with out covering them up. even the small top plate covers em up a heap. Id also like to access fuel lines and spark plugs etc with out it being a saga. Let alone trying to tune triple downdrafts. At the moment I can get to every thing easily except the idle jets. 

 

Had an idea about spinning up an adapter to slot in where the dizzy used to be to make a little shelf for the coil pack to sit on, rather than long leads and hangin off the firewall. need a plug for that hole anyway. 

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I believe what you are calling trumpets, I call them velocity stacks, the top of each trumpet is tapered(gets larger) as it rises and is flared like a flower at the top, you have six of them pointed upward.

So if you had 6 more trumpets with the bottom cut off an inch from the top each one of them would drop into the top of each trumpet and stay there like you were stacking trumpets(paper cups), so if you have a metal plate sitting on top of all 6 trumpets with holes drilled right above each trumpet that were slightly smaller than the top of each trumpet perfectly centered on each trumpet, you could then take that plate to a press and use a metal ball that sits maybe one third down inside a trumpet, now if you have a copy of the inside of a trumpet flare made out of stronger metal than a real trumpet, you could center the plate hole with the 6 perfectly centered holes above each trumpet over that copy of the top of a trumpet, put the ball on the hole and then press down with the press till it stops, you now have a flared downward hole, do that to all 6 holes and then that plate should just sit on the top of all 6 trumpets like it was made to be there.

You would then attach that oval or square ring you have made to the size of the air filter to that plate you have sitting on top of the trumpets as low and at the angle you need, once done you now have the base of the air filter housing sitting on top of all 6 trumpets, put the air filter you are going to use in position, then you make the top.

I do not know how you would hold the air filter assembly on there. maybe a piece of foam in the cowl will hold it down, but when you lift the hood you can take the air filter assembly off in one piece and it will look like the first photo you posted of the truck with all 6 trumpets standing up in all their glory without anything in the way to hide them.

This is the simplest way I can explain my idea, it may scratch the trumpets unless some seal is used on the bottom of the plate to cushion each hole that rests in each trumpet.

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I get ya, got lost there in the middle and couldn't work out where the ball went! I will have to consider that as a part of mark 2 filter box. I think I can make the top section fit both ideas and can revise later with the double stack idea after with minimal mods, cant afford another set of stacks right now. Going to see if I can make a buck and die in the lathe to press it into some 50mm tube but don't have time at the moment, sort of like your pressing ball idea. 

 

With your arrangement any thoughts on how would you seal the float bowl? I cant see it not being filtered? also I think it will cause issues if it is not "seeing" the same air source as the stacks/venturis. Need time to think it over. Need a bloody car that runs! :crying:

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I get ya, got lost there in the middle and couldn't work out where the ball went! I will have to consider that as a part of mark 2 filter box. I think I can make the top section fit both ideas and can revise later with the double stack idea after with minimal mods, cant afford another set of stacks right now. Going to see if I can make a buck and die in the lathe to press it into some 50mm tube but don't have time at the moment, sort of like your pressing ball idea. 

 

With your arrangement any thoughts on how would you seal the float bowl? I cant see it not being filtered? also I think it will cause issues if it is not "seeing" the same air source as the stacks/venturis. Need time to think it over. Need a bloody car that runs! :crying:

 

I don't really know anything about what you have there, to me you have 6 separate carbs, that is all I know, if the bowls need something special like when a carbed gas engine is turbocharged then that is way over my head, I just posted what I seen in my head.

You don't need 6 more trumpets, I just used them as a reference to try to explain what I meant when I talked about flaring the plate to match the tops of the trumpets, I believe the flairs only need to be a quarter inch deep in the plate, just deep enough for the plate to want to stay in place when sitting on top of the trumpets.

I also mentioned that I had no idea what would hold the air filter assembly in place, I mentioned a piece of foam, maybe a shaped piece of foam inside the cowl, I really have no idea.

The ball was also just used as a reference, it could be a tube just slightly smaller the the inside of one of the trumpets, whatever will shape the plate to fit the inside of the trumpet when pressed into the slightly smaller hole in the plate that sits on top of the trumpets.

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20171219_122307.jpg

 

 

No worries. With these IDFs there is some holes in the too of the carb that lead to the idle jets and the bowl vents for the float level. Also you can see the 2 brass tubes sticking up on the middle lead to the main jet air bleed and emulsion tube. All these need to reference the same air conditions as the main stacks or they wont run properly, be a nightmare to tune. So i need the whole top of the carb to seal, which is a shame cause you end up covering up all the pretty.

Also having the carbs in the engine bay breathing hot air loses HP so thats the reason for the hood cowl, that and to get the correct length for the inlet runners, clear throttle linkages etc.

From my learning its about -1% hp for every 7*C higher so i figure with the normal temps here being 38*C (101*F) and under bonnet being 65*C (150*F) thats like 4% of my hp lost. So the extra effort hopefully will be worth it......Maybe.

I dont want to cover it all up but i dont want it not done to the best it can be engineering wise either?

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I have nothing for that, it appears your first idea is the best option, it's too bad as them trumpets look awesome sticking up out in the open.

That will be a unique daily driver. 

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20171219_172631.jpg

 

Only got an hour or so in today so I mucked around getting the look I want on the reverse cowl. Had to chop it to get the lines right and gave myself a bit more clearance while at it.

 

20171219_173030.jpg

 

Wont get a chance to work on it now till after Christmas. Was getting excited again too. 

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Am I the only person who sees the irony that you got rid of dual side draft carbs because they were too expensive to tune and you installed 3 similar carbs instead?   :thumbup: At least you may be able to share some jets between them?

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Ha Ha yes. But in my defence. I got rid of the mikunis because over here it is really hard to get parts and jets. They where originals off a toyota so I would have needed to buy jets and new venturis a new accel pump housing.

Irony is I sold my DCOE to buy 3 new carbs. I COULD have run twin side drafts one sweeping over each rocker cover. Manifold would have been easy and I would have only needed to buy one more carb. Tuning twins in that situation would have been interesting though.

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I have come across a couple of stuffed '74 620s with the king pin front ends. Does anyone know if the actual chassis is the same through to 78? As long as cab mount and suspension pick up points are the same. Got some crazy ideas for down the track. Save me having this one off the road again while doing the mods. Can just swap everything once done.

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Yes I swapped a '73 cab onto my 77 truck and everything is the same.  Its just a bunch of bolt-on suspension changes up front.  Unless there's a change in the upper control arm mount - in my truck that's all modified.  

One change is the fuel tank mount - cab versus frame . 

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Your sir, are doing a mighty fine job! What alternator bracket and tensioner are you using?

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Thanks for the feedback!

 

Its the alt bracket that came on the pathfinder. I had to cut it up and swap it from rhs to lhs to clear the steer box. 3 bolt holes lined up and the alignment was spot on for the belt. The adjuster is the original cut up and modded to suit. It was a pain in the arse. Ended up working well. Bought a new belt to suit.

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Yes I swapped a '73 cab onto my 77 truck and everything is the same. Its just a bunch of bolt-on suspension changes up front. Unless there's a change in the upper control arm mount - in my truck that's all modified.

One change is the fuel tank mount - cab versus frame .

Yeah from a quick look it appeared as though thefe was differences in the Top fca mounts. I suppose its only an issue if i leave it standard.

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20180105_182744.jpg

 

The biggest air filter ever made is in. Bonnet opens and closes and clears the stacks.

 

20180105_182937.jpg

 

Whats going on under the scoop. Poor tigmanship sorry. Still learning. The rest of the welds i just hit with the mig cause i figure no-one will ever see it any wAy

 

20180105_183010.jpg

 

View from drivers seat. Sad dash. Happy air filter. Messy shed..

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nice work

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