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Str8jacket

Project Storage tub.

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Hi, have been lurking for a while but dont post much. Thought I'd share my 620 ute evolution.

 

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Here she is when i first brought it home. I initially drove 12hrs with the car trailer to buy a totally different truck. It was definitely not quite as described so jumped on Gumtree to see if there where any other utes around. I wanted a older ute with a bit of cool. Saw this, it was supposed to be nearly ready to register.

It looked cool, also didnt know the mate i drove down with was a closet JDM fan so his enthusiasm helped the purchase!

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Thanks Wayno, I have had numerous incomplete projects over the years so I am really trying to keep this from being another one. I will slowly add photos to get up to date with where I am now.

 

When i bought the tub it had some really nice rims but they where to expensive for me, plus it had the tyres really stretched on which is not my style, I want as much tyre width as I can fit. So it came with originals. I was having a beer wondering what to do abiut the 4in wide rim issue when I saw the Standard rims and tyres i took of my work ute. Holy crap they're 6 stud too! They had 30in tyres on that would never fit but I jacked it right up and trial them on. BINGO perfect stud pattern and offset was . So i got a set of 225/55ZR16s. My mate had just painted a old Landcruiser and had some left over paint in the gun.

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That'll do!

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Here is the engine as bought with the mikunis. Spent a fortune on rebuild kits but couldnt get it to run with the setup as is. The accelerator pump on one was leaking and the ignition system was a ebay job that the vac advance canister fell off before i even got it home off the trailer. Ran like a bag of shit.

Looked cool but.

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The first photo has what appears to be stock rims for a 1978/79 Datsun 620 truck with front disc brakes, they should be 5 inches wide, the Orange rims look like early Datsun 720 4X4 rims, but you say they came off your Landcruiser, all 6 bolt wheel patterns are the same for all makes except for Nissan/Toyota dually axles which have a larger 6 lug pattern.

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Here it is with the painted rims and the new rubber. It took about 2 months to fix up all the bits and pieces. had to completely rewire from the fire wall forward. all new lights suspension rubbers, shocks. The previous owner had done a lot of work, the L20b conversion, new 720 front spindles and brakes discs etc, the diff was 720 and the 5 speed was out of a bluebird. 

 

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Gave up on the mikunis, there was not enough parts available and it cost a fortune for bits, so I sold the set to fund a single weber set up, at the same time I ditched the dizzy and installed a megajolt crank fire ignition system and a wasted spark coil pack. Was one of the best things I have done, it ran some much better. 

 

Spent weeks tuning it on off on the way to work and burning up and down the high way, but I ended up with the single 45 DCOE and the lynx manifold, really liked this set up, it run like a champ, sounded cool and was reliable, did have to pull the tank out and do a reseal as it had rust and a small leak. Pain in the arse cleaning idle jets till I got that sorted. 

 

I had the ute like this for about 6 months, but the engine was really tired never been rebuilt and squillions of miles on it. was burning equal oil to petrol. Massive burn outs in third gear till I blew the old tyres didn't help its longevity :crying: 

 

So I had a mate of a mate who's second cousins next door neighbour had a "rebuilt" L20B with a hot cam and stuff, picked it up for $300. The plan was for a quick engine swap over the week off. Its about this time "project storage tub" was truly born. Turns out who ever built the engine ripped old mate off good. I thought hey I'll strip it down and check it as its been sitting a while. Nearly broke allen keys undoing the head bolts, pistons in backwards, rod caps mixed up, cam seized in the cam bores, they must have just plain given up trying to put the timing chain and tensioner in cause it was just dropped don the front cover. So I went all through it and fixed everything. got it running and it was running like a bloody champ too. Had enough cam to put 38mm chokes in the weber. sounded awesome. till it boiled the coolant in the radiator after about 500klms? WTF? checked it over could find a thing wrong. Compression test, all good? Anyway got the shits and pulled the head, I knew the crank and the bores were a bit shoddy from it sitting but was nothing detrimental, but had run out of ideas. found 3 of the head bolts at the back of the engine had completely pulled the threads out of the block? I thought the things were tight when I pulled it apart but they tensioned up ok? So I thread serted the block, even bought a set of ARP head studs. Put the head back on, got to 25ftlbs torqueing it up and the same three studs pulled out of the block. Small 4 year old inspired tantrum ensued. 

 

So here I am with 2 knackered engines. One is totalled the other block and crank needs work, the heads needed doing properly if I was going to the effort of spending $2k on machine work. I had new clutch here full set of arp bolts the works and the option of spending atleast $3k n an L20B. I had a TD04HL and thought yep this is going on. Then I realised It would be a bitch to tune, probably temperamental all for what? 160hp 200hp at a stretch.

 

F*#k the L20B. :poop: 

 

Engine swap. It'll be cheaper in the long run I was explaining to my wife, more hp and virtually standard engine, once done I wont need to touch it. Its a sure winner. :thumbup: 

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The first photo has what appears to be stock rims for a 1978/79 Datsun 620 truck with front disc brakes, they should be 5 inches wide, the Orange rims look like early Datsun 720 4X4 rims, but you say they came off your Landcruiser, all 6 bolt wheel patterns are the same for all makes except for Nissan/Toyota dually axles which have a larger 6 lug pattern.

 

I didn't really measure the rims to be honest, they were to narrow for my liking, the new rims are off a 2015 4wd Isuzu DMAX. The colour just happens to be what my mate was spraying a landcruiser at the time. 

 

They're fire engine red but my poor photography doesn't show it well. I need time to drill holes for some hub cap clips, so it will finish the look. I am more of a mechanical guy than show. 

Edited by Str8jacket
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I decided on a V6. VG33e out of a pathfinder 2000ish model, R50. They only had auto over here and aint nobody got time for that. Found a wrecker that had both a VG33e in a pathfinder and 5 speed in a d22 navara, that was in a 2wd v6. so I got them to send the engine gearbox and tail shaft. At the time I spoke to my engineer he said it would need the brakes the same as the donor car so I got the entire spindles and brakes off the D22 as well.

 

Photo after I spent the day trying to swap the alt from RHS to LHS. Ended up using some of the original brackets and fabbing the rest.

 

Got it sitting in as far back as possible and as low as possible, the box is BIG. I did things to the trans tunnel that I'm not proud of. But it is in there and it sits nice. It is actually that far back that it has come up in the front compared to the L20b. it sat a long way forward, not sure if that was due the PO install or what. It will ride about the same height I hope once I have it all in with manifolds and flywheel/clutch etc.

 

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Still need to mod the sump for extra ground clearance. It will end up with a dead skippy rammed through it if I leave it as is.  

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I pulled the head bolt threads out of my LZ23 block near the thermostat housing, I had a heli-coil put into the block, I then bought a ARP head stud kit and installed it and have never had an issue since(5/6 years now), but it appears you are way past the L block now.

The VG is a very tight fit in the 620, we had a guy put the early 200SX VG30 into his 620, it took him a while to finish it, but he did it in such a way that one might think it was a stock engine, very clean install, 200SX intake/exhaust, I think a pathfinder starter, the alternator was a bitch, custom parts had to be made to install that.

Here is a link to that build.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/3521-my-yello620/page-1?hl=yello

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How crap is the standard manifolds on a Nissan pathfinder, top HP is about 170hp. The exhaust Id hoped to use to get going, but it was cracked on both sides. The EFI monstrosity I pulled, thought about putting aftermarket ef on but had a really nice 390hp 4 barrel that would be perfect. So I set about making a new manifold. Not many options for a carb mani here locally and the cost of getting one from states was out. 

 

I want carbs cause I like to tune them, I enjoy the science and shit behind them. plus I wanted a bit of ole skool. If I wanted all out death trap HP I would go SR20. but the roads here are rubbish and a 300hp light switch in the rain for a daily driver didn't float my boat. I want torque and carby induction noise!

 

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What it started as. 

 

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Half done. mammoth hours. could have bough an LS2 for the hourly rate!

 

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Manifold pretty much finished, Ute in the back ground with bonnet scoop mocked up for it all to fit under. Didn't need to go that high but was going for the tunnel ram look, because I'm a toss bag. :w00t:

 

Hated it...

 

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I think it would have worked OK really, probably would have lost a lot of low down torque cause the plenum was to big, I I where to do it again knowing what I can do now I could make a more traditional 4 barrel with a centre plenum. trying to work with is in the cross ram config stuffed me up.

 

Anyway, In between sulking about my not so good looking 4 barrel manifold I started building some extractors. 

 

​They are tuned length 2 step headers 3 into 1s and going to merge out back to a single 2 1/2in. Atleast 15 times I have had the engine in and out to make these things fit. I have ideas on how to make the whole engine install easier with the torsion bars, but I would probably end up with a VH45 in there then and be back to square one on how do I make this fit!

 

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​They're in there! need to "massage" the LHS a bit cause it pulled when I welded the header flange. It just touches the upper control arm, next lap of the engine in/out saga I will sort that!

 

Things that went well. Standard sump clears everything, a bit low, no biggy, standard Alt fits once swapped to other side and new bracket made. Standard starter fits awesome with room to spare. Needed to flip my steer link to clear sump, wish Id found this place earlier would have saved some beer drinking and looking. Ended up with the same result though.

 

Engine mounts are some I found off a hilux. Trans fits nice once the tunnel is cut open at the top for a bit more clearance but the shifter is in a better spot than the bluebird 5 speed was. D22 tailshaft needed mods to fit. That was a scary bill, luckily I cashed in some scrap and it offset the price. Still cried a little though. Had to make a completely new trans cross member though.

 

​D22 twin piston brakes on the D22 2WD spindles, the entire assembly bolts straight in, the brakelines even fit straight up. Had to machine a washer so the 720 steering arm would bolt up, couldn't use the D22 one cause the taper was different. Still was only a 10min lathe job and bolted up nice. 

 

More  to come when I get time.. Cheers 

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I pulled the head bolt threads out of my LZ23 block near the thermostat housing, I had a heli-coil put into the block, I then bought a ARP head stud kit and installed it and have never had an issue since(5/6 years now), but it appears you are way past the L block now.

The VG is a very tight fit in the 620, we had a guy put the early 200SX VG30 into his 620, it took him a while to finish it, but he did it in such a way that one might think it was a stock engine, very clean install, 200SX intake/exhaust, I think a pathfinder starter, the alternator was a bitch, custom parts had to be made to install that.

Here is a link to that build.

http://community.ratsun.net/topic/3521-my-yello620/page-1?hl=yello

 

Yes that is the thread I found and set the ball rolling for VG33. I have been going at it 5 months now. being side tracked on tuned length headers and inlet manifold tapers and stupid stuff has taken more time than I would like. It probably will pay dividends though with the extra 1.6% HP I will gain. B)  

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I guess I should just sit back and see how far you have gotten, every suggestion I have made that might have helped you is void as that engine is long gone, you already had found the thread I suggested you look at, it's like I am pissing into the wind.

Why did you need to use a 720 steering arm, it doesn't look like a 720 steering assembly in the photo.

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I guess I should just sit back and see how far you have gotten, every suggestion I have made that might have helped you is void as that engine is long gone, you already had found the thread I suggested you look at, it's like I am pissing into the wind.

Why did you need to use a 720 steering arm, it doesn't look like a 720 steering assembly in the photo.

Sorry mate that was not the way I meant to come across. I am a complete newb to the world of Datsuns, any year model references are only off what I was told was put on it so I could be completely wrong!

 

I was told the spindles and brakes fitted (720) were an upgrade put on to replace the 620 disc and spindles There are the spindles and slotted rotors going to waste in my shed. The steering arm I was referring to was the spindle arm, wrong terminology. I can get a photo if you want to see the difference, maybe you could tell what it is actually off or if it is original 620? I wouldn't know.   :confused:

 

I have about ten more photos that I am working on sorting out then putting up and it is pretty much up to where I am currently, which sadly is not far a long. Any and all help suggestions and hints are welcome and will probably be needed. I was getting them up in a order so it sort of made sense on how I got to the shit show that is currently residing (blown apart) in my shed.

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Finishing off the back story to where I am now. 

 

These might look a bit better than the Holley?

 

From this 

 

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To this

 

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And after a shit ton of welding and die grinding

 

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Started with the top plate and positioning the IDFs

 

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I also have the 1990 D21/hardbody dual piston disc brakes on my work truck, they will bolt in to a disc brake 620 and are a very nice upgrade, they last way longer before fading on long down hill grades in traffic with a heavy load, the 1985 Nissan 720 brakes are also an upgrade, but they are not dual piston, you also can get parts for these brakes as the pathfinder even had the dual piston calipers.

I meant nothing by saying I should sit back and wait till you are all updated, I think of stuff to say and I find out you have already passed that point a long time ago, I just need to wait and see how far you have gotten.

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Wow, aren't you the fabricator, no one over here has ever tried that as far as I know, you appear to change your mind a lot, more than me for that matter and I change my mind a lot.

Time for me to go, will catch up tomorrow.

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So this is where it sits at the moment. I have mostly finished the intake and exhaust manifolds, need to fix some clearance issues on the headers, need to finish the intake and sort some linkages, bought some on ebay from the UK, hope to see them in new year while I still have time off. 

 

I bought an air filter, they sent the wrong one. its huge!

 

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I am trying to see if I can make it work anyway, need to build a filter base and top to fit and then block off hot engine bay air, to suit the reverse cowl. 

Going to run the megajolt system again as it was awesome on the L20B. need to rewire it in. Also going to dodge in a full digital dash as none of mine works well plus its not compatible.

 

My dash pad is stuffed so I'm considering a full hand made alloy sheet dash? depends on my patience and time, I have a line up of dead machines and half finished projects at the moment. May end up zip tied to the column.

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Wow, aren't you the fabricator, no one over here has ever tried that as far as I know, you appear to change your mind a lot, more than me for that matter and I change my mind a lot.

Time for me to go, will catch up tomorrow.

I'm a back yarder who doesn't know/care that things shouldn't be done so do them anyway. And you are correct on the mind changing, its terrible but I'm in a program! hope to make progress as the therapy continues!

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I'm a back yarder who doesn't know/care that things shouldn't be done so do them anyway. And you are correct on the mind changing, its terrible but I'm in a program! hope to make progress as the therapy continues!

 

Yea, that program you mentioned isn't working. :lol:

 

I myself have went thru all the time to build 2 Datsun  (520 and 521) 4X4 trucks only to change them to 2wd trucks before I put them on the road under their own power, I decided to stop making 4wd trucks and I sold the transfer cases to get rid of the notion/draw, I don't go anywhere that I need 4wd anyway, one of them does have a LSD/Posi rearend though, so I can likely keep it moving as long as the terrain is not too extreme, but have not went off road yet in 7 years.

 

I agree with Mr Motorsports, I would not cover that up intake up, it's awesome looking, and is not so large it looks out of place.

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Maybe you can make something connected to the hood that when closed it filters the air but when open it doesn't cover the intake, but that would likely make the under side of the hood look goofy when it was open, unless it just covers the velocity stacks when closed, something in the cowl. 

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Jesus tap dancing christ . I think i just overheated my like button . 

 

 

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There is a good 20-30 hours stuffing around!  

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Maybe you can make something connected to the hood that when closed it filters the air but when open it doesn't cover the intake, but that would likely make the under side of the hood look goofy when it was open, unless it just covers the velocity stacks when closed, something in the cowl. 

 

 

Clear polycarbonate formed to make a reverse hood scoop.

 

I have been standing there staring at it but haven't come up with an "elegant" solution. Only solutions that make it work.

 

I really need a proper filter where I live, even socks wont cut it, where I park at work the car gets covered in dust. When they sent the wrong filter I was pissed but looked it up and its an extreme off road version that was worth 2 times the price that I paid. The one I was supposed to get was one of the only off the shelf ones that would go all way around, but it was only 2in high, so I was going to have to build a raised shelf for it to sit on, or hang it from the bonnet like Wayno said.  Not sure how to make it seal?

Got some shed time today I will see what I can come up with. 

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