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'85 4x4


ClumsyBird

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It's heavier than the 620 and it's about 2,750. A 4x4 would be a lot more.

 

My 620 had a KC '82 2wd frame with transfer case and a Toyota solid front axle and big tires. The torsion bar and front suspension I cut away. It weighed 3,400 without me in it.

I need to weigh mine, but I always have stuff with me that needs to be delivered here or there or something so I can't get an accurate weight lol. But I think 3,300-3,500 sounds right for a 4wd. Lockleaf have you weighed any of yours?

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Nah never thought about my truck weight. Its probably been weighed and i just never paid attention. I've taken many loads in for recycling so I'm sure I've seen my real weight a few times.

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I'm looking at buying a 85' 2wd standard cab 85xxx miles, I know I can steal the engine out of it, but can I take the transmission because it is a 2wd? I know it has different suspension components. But same cab, same year. That's really the dear breaker, because the windshield, floor boards, and engine don't constitute buying a whole new truck, but add in the transmission and we have a deal

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The first gear is higher in the 2wd, you won't notice too much unless you drive like a banshee, run bigger tires, and off road. I do all of the above so I looked extra hard to find a 4wd, bought one from Ted at Canby and I have been extremely pleased with it.

 

85xxx miles? Dude might want to replace your little car with it, these little things don't die easy and a lot of times the engines can be brought back from the depths of well real nastiness.

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The 2wd has some front end damage, isn't a 4x4 obviously, and does have as cool as a grill. You can't imagine how difficult a swap would be for the 4x4

What swap is unimaginably difficult? Transmission swaps in 4wds are not enjoyable at all if that is what you are talking about? Converting a 2wd to 4wd would also be really hard.

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The frame and body on the 4x4, despite having 300xxx miles on it, it's almost entirely rust free, besides the floor pans and some surface body rust, it also has working 4x4, but a tired engine and transmission and caruburetor. The 2wd has body damage, yet has a strong drivetrain as well as a good bed, floor pans, and windshield. So Im trying to find the best combination of parts and decide which truck to fit things on, The 2wd parts truck will probably run me as much as my original truck, around 600ish?

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Your getting a lot of parts. The question is do you have the room to store them? If so a whole parts truck is a good deal. There are lots of little bits and already having some in a stash you can access at night on a Sunday comes in handy. Since that is always when you will need something like an alternator or idler pull wiper motor ect, to make it somewhere for monday morning. Old vehicles like to have issues at the most inconvenient time.

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Your getting a lot of parts. The question is do you have the room to store them? If so a whole parts truck is a good deal. There are lots of little bits and already having some in a stash you can access at night on a Sunday comes in handy. Since that is always when you will need something like an alternator or idler pull wiper motor ect, to make it somewhere for monday morning. Old vehicles like to have issues at the most inconvenient time.

I second this.

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Transmission will fit in theory but not likely in actuality without one modification.

 

4X4 transmissions are all 26.5 inches long by 1984. Basically all the 2wd transmissions by that time are 31 inches long. Almost guaranteed your intermediate shaft from trans to transfer case will need to be shortened.

 

Yes there are long tail transmissions in 4x4s from the factory. Yes there are short tail transmissions in 2wd from the factory.

 

Both of these exceptions aren't common, so likely you will have the length mismatch to deal with. But a modified intermediate shaft will do that.

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Yep that's parts. Too much money for what to the rest of the world is scrap. But if you get it cheap there are a lot of other cheap bastards here that would need bits you don't and depending on how much your time is worth you could recoup some of your cash. If you need an engine this is the way to go because EVERTHING is there. Good luck

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Also it has an LSD. If you don't take that I may be willing to buy it off you at Canby for a reasonable price. You could likely sell the bed box, maybe the steering wheel, the rims (for real cheap, but somebody will take em), somebody might want the grandpa bumper, if the tailgate functions I would be interested in that, but you probably will take it first. :-) You should be able to recoup a pretty fair amount. But try and talk him down as that is a bit on the pricey side.

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LSD?? Did Nissan make H190 LSDs? 

 

Yes, but not for the 720, so I call bullshit on that. The '88-'92 D21 had an optional H-190 that could be swapped in, or maybe aftermarket but very expen$ive for a State truck. The D21 axle is wider and is not a good fit for the 720.

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It's my view that a locked rear is the ultimate goal for my 720. It is not appropriate for an OEM because of the loss of control if you leave it engaged and you lean into that slick highway curve. I used to wheel a lifted FJ 40 Landcruiser that lacked taction because of it's high center of gravity, stiff front and rear leafs, small axle to axle dimension, and monster heavy motor with tons of low-end torque. I'd regularly have trouble where stock FJ 60 and 4Runner wagons would be at ease. But with traction control in 2wd, you get around the troubles of a still highway-worthy amount of suspension articulation, and avoid alot of stress on CV joints. I really regret the lift kit and 33s because it made it a seriously less trail-worthy truck.

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Sorry for the lack of updates. Body work and chasing rust is just a pain. Currently trying to make a pair of brackets for the rodeo seats a snagged, I got a 97 and the front bolts up directly, but the back is about 3/4" short, so I need to make some brackets. Also need to chase down some battery gremlins, as I recently tested the open circuit and got a reading of a whole 8 volts! I'm guessing the grounds are just corroded, but is there any other common electrical issues in these trucks I should look for??

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