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Another newbie with questions


FiremarshalBill49

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Hey Guys,

 

I'm new to the forum and don't actually have a 620 yet.  I had a 73' many years ago and loved it, and I'm now considering purchasing a standard-cab/long-bed 74' that is currently in the process of being restored.  The seller would finish the restoration for me to MY specs. I'm really inclined toward a stock look, but was wondering what upgrades I might consider for comfort, safety, and reliability, such as:  Electronic ignition? Front disc brakes? 4-speed or 5-speed?  Interior upgrades? Bench seat or bucket seats? Any other suggested upgrades? What questions would you ask the builder? I'd really appreciate your thoughts.  Thanks.

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The years are often mistaken, the long bed only came out at the beginning of the '75 model year. If the build date on the driver's door jam says Sept '74 to June '85 it's an '75 model year. If between Sept '73 and Aug '74 it's a '74 model .

 

Bucket seats are nice but tend to be quite thick and are better suited for a King Cab with more room. Check before you make the switch. Front disc brakes are worth it because the front drums do most of the stopping and really need to be adjusted every 6 months to keep them optimal. Disc brake need almost zero maintenance and no adjustment. If you primarily drive out on the highway a five speed is nice. If mostly in town it won't get used enough to be worth it. Electronic ignition is also nice as there is zero maintenance and no points to replace or constantly clean/adjust.

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L20B for simplicity, electronic distributor, front disc brakes, and 5spd tranny.

 

If he is asking you what you want to do and you will pay for it, get the KA24E or KA24DE engine as it is better than the Z24 and newer with more power and bolts right in.

 

Either way you do want the front disc brakes and 5 spd tranny to drive comfortably in.

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As far as engine swaps go, KA's into L powered vehicles are fairly straightforward. Calling them "bolt in" is an experienced person's way of telling you how easy they are. And a lot of parts do in fact, bolt in. With the right trans, the motor bolts to the bellhousing. With the right engine mounts, the block will bolt to the chassis.

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Steve (]2eYeDe) has custom mounts for a 620. It's still a lot of work and for non owner a HUGE amount to pay someone to do for him. A KA will fit with about as much work as a Toyota R22 and transmission. Just about any 4 cylinder will fit the 620.

 

If the same price, I would go with the Z24. I had one in my 620 briefly. It pulls better than the L20B Truck was 3,400 lb and had a 4.11 diff.... it really needed it. 

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Boils down to how much you are willing to spend, skills, tools, time and how much heafaches are you willing to bare. Or else it will be another project that became a non starter then eventually u see it on Craigslist with a title, my lost your gain or went another route. Peeps really need to seriously think about this, it is a project after all.

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I guess what I'm saying is that I wish all of my engine swaps were this easy. I have been doing a ton of LS swaps lately, and in most of my swaps, nothing bolts in, which means that everything is up to my judgement, and if I get it wrong, it's wrong big.

 

Mock up takes a huge amount of time, at least to do right. In some cases, I'll have an engine in and out of the truck 8 or 10 times before it's final.

 

A swap that begins with an engine that physically bolts into place makes the job so much easier.

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I guess what I'm saying is that I wish all of my engine swaps were this easy. I have been doing a ton of LS swaps lately, and in most of my swaps, nothing bolts in, which means that everything is up to my judgement, and if I get it wrong, it's wrong big.

 

Mock up takes a huge amount of time, at least to do right. In some cases, I'll have an engine in and out of the truck 8 or 10 times before it's final.

 

A swap that begins with an engine that physically bolts into place makes the job so much easier.

I mentioned it only because if he has a builder doing all the work for him and has an L or Z to install, id ask if he could go and locate a KA and spend a bit more for wiring and fuel upgrades to get it in there.

 

The smile on his face for the extra money on the KA will be worth it.

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Still keeping my eyes open for a really nice stock or slightly modified 620 (under $9K).  I have until December 16th when I head down to look at having a Seattle area builder finish up a sweet little 74' for me, put together to my specs.  One last shout out here to any West Coast 620 owner looking to sell their super nice 620 I can feel confident about driving back to Washington State.  Any help out there with a lead?  Thanks!

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