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Aaron Datsun

Aaron's 1972 Datsun 510: 4 Door Glory

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Project Log (22 Nov 17):

Start Time: 1700L

End Time: 2300L

Introduction Paragraph

Received the new wheel cylinders from O’Reilly’s yesterday. I decided to get the car driving before swapping the brakes. I also didn’t want to do the rear wheel bearings yet, and those should really be done while you are swapping the rear brakes.

-  Took off the wheels for the rear wheels for the first time today. The rear has an unneeded spacer on it, perhaps to push it out to align with the front?

   o   Author’s Note: It was needed, which I learned when I put it all back together

-  I am sure you noticed that I have not been accomplishing everything on my to do lists, which is a common theme in my life, I decided it is most important to get the car starting and stopping before I leave for two weeks.


To Do (Daily):              

1. þ Install Passenger’s rear wheel cylinder

2. þ Install Driver’s rear wheel cylinder

3. ¨ Bleed Rear Brakes

4. þ Flush Brakes

5. þRe-Install Wheels

6. ¨ Check Idle RPM

7. þ Clean the backseat (later addition)


1. The brakes came apart easily. The brake line did not come apart easily. I heated the fitting at least two times and hit it with penetrating fluid to get it to break loose. I still spun off the nut and will eventually need to replace that hardline (when I replace the rear drums with discs). I did not want to use the vice grips to break it loose, but it definitely forced my hand. Again it will get swapped when I swap the brakes.

   - The brakes are pretty easy to disassemble , just remember to remove the hand brake cable, and use a bolt to pop the drum loose

   - I had to re-install the cylinder because I forgot to run the rubber boot at least once

2. Took off the wheel and most of the brake parts very easily. This is when I determined the spacer was actually needed on the wheel; that is unfortunate.  

   - When attempting to remove the hardline, I broke it. I am stuck until I fix that.

   - I attempted to heat and cool the hard line at least two times. The nut was rusted to the hard line to bad and it finally broke the hardline about an inch from the nut

   - This is what happens when you don’t soak parts overnight

   - Just realized after I cleaned up my tools that I can still put the whole thing back together without that hard line, realized this @ 2131L. Hope you get a kick out of me realizing that

   - The brakes went back together way easier on the driver’s side than on the passengers

3. By the time I broke the hard line all of the parts stores were closed so there was no way to bleed the brakes

4. I was able to flush the rear brake lines even with the giant hole in the brake line

    - The fluid came out a terrible rusty color

5. When re-installing the wheels I realized the spacers were needed to run the wheels, but more importantly the spacers leave almost no thread engagement with the lugs and studs that are currently on the car

   - This to me is a danger and I will be working to fix this very soon

6. I decided not to start to determine the idle RPM tonight, will do that tomorrow on Thanksgiving

7. Cleaned the backseat with the same leather cleaner I used on the Buick it really cleaned up the back seat upholstery quite well.



   - My kids Olivia and Cooper helped today doing the bleeding. Cooper actually helped quite a bit today when I was installing the passenger’s wheel cylinder I hope he learned something I explained how brakes worked with him. 

   o I am thankful for Cooper and Olivia helping it was sweet

   o I am also grateful that I am actually able to have a project car

   - Took a break from 1900-2000L

   - I measured the rear cross member pass-through for the exhaust. The inner diameter is 2.5”. That means that I can comfortably run a 2.25” diameter exhaust.

   o The current exhaust is 1.5” diameter

   - Checked under the back seat and brought of the center seat belt buckles that were missing

   - I am quite pleased with the work done today.


Images: Next one


Links to Timelapse: Next Update

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Project Log (23 Nov 17):

Start Time: 0900L

End Time: 1215L


It is Thanksgiving today. I checked online and there was an AutoZone open a few miles from my house. While I don’t really love those shops having to open, I most certainly took advantage of it.


To Do (Daily):

1. þ Bleed rear brakes

2. þ Flush old fluid from front brakes

3. þ Bleed front brakes

4. þ Flush old fluid and bleed clutch

5. þ Adjust and set up idle


1.  AutoZone did not have just the line to bend and cut to purchase in my size (3/16th Inch). So I bought a premade length with flares and fittings. It was a 20” line which is a bit long. I added extra bends to make it work. It attached very easily and should work well enough until I swap in the new rear brakes. Total cost was about $5.50

   - I would like to redo all the lines in the car in the future to ensure I have no issues in the future

2.  Nothing really to it. Both bleeder screws worked great. The fluid came out very rust colored, but was much easier than the rears.

3. This was also very simple took about 15 minutes per side. I believe one of the front brakes is a bit frozen, but with some use I think it will start working better. If the brakes don’t start working better I will look for a caliper rebuild kit for the front. Usually they aren’t very expensive on Rock Auto

4. Cleaned out the clutch master cylinder, it was pure black. Replaced the fluid and tried to bleed at the slave cylinder. The bleeder valve was completely corroded closed. So I removed the bleeder valve completely and it still would not push fluid out. I unclogged it with a tooth pick and then when the fluid started coming out I replaced the bleeder valve

5. I spent time reading Weber’s website to determine steps to correctly set idle. According to the website: (please read all before starting)

   1. Back idle screw to where it isn’t touching throttle

      a. Actuate throttle to ensure it isn’t touching throttle

      b. Turn Back until touching throttle stop

      c. Turn additional 1.5 turns

   2. Adjust fuel idle mixture screw all the way in (Do not over tighten)

      a. Turn back out 2 full turns

3. Start car

4. Adjust idle mixture screw in/out until car is running smoothly (by ear tuning)

5. Adjust idle speed screw to desired engine speed

   o Note: Prop open choke, check timing after, enjoy life


-  I have alluded to this several times while writing. It was at this point I determined I had switched cylinder 3/4 spark plug wires with each other. Holy cow this thing runs MUCH better on all 4 cylinders rather than just two.



-   Adjusted push rod for the brakes, I had forgot to tighten the jam nut

-   The wheels have to go. The spacers really make this car unsafe in my opinion

-   I am going to work to hook up old exhaust before moving the car out of the garage, I also need to burn off the old gas before long so I can get newer nice fuel in it

-   There seems to be a coolant leak (a new task!) and I don’t know if the thermostat is working (thermostat)

-   Front passenger’s dust cap is missing, and that is no bueno

-    I found goof spots for the jack stand





The Exact moment I broke the line:











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Loving the detailed posts. Can really get a feel for what's going on.

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^^^what he said.  Also dig the time lapse.

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I have not been idle, but holy cow work has been crazy lately so getting videos edited and my super long internal monologues typed takes time. I actually have the next video done too. I will be typing up the notes over the next week and will post up soonish.


Project Log (24 Nov 17):

Start Time: 0930L

End Time: 1200L


Today was a light day. I just mainly cleaned the garage and worked to attach the exhaust. I wanted to get this car out of the garage so the wife could park in the garage while I was away for work for a few weeks. Mission Accomplished.


To Do (Daily):

1. þ Hook up exhaust

2. þ Clean up garage

3. þ Measure wheels and brakes


1. The exhaust was fairly easy to hook up. I am grateful that my pack rat nature didn’t allow me to throw out old Datsun bolts over the years. I was able to only attach with 2/3 bolts. I also attempted to use the exhaust gasket that came in the kit. It did not fit, so I removed and set to the side, as it would have definitely leaked. The circular holes were not big enough on the gasket


2. Put away tools, swept, and put up Christmas lights. Found the bolts for the Datsun 240z seats that came with the 510; will hopefully sell those this weekend.  


3. Measured offset/backspacing as well as brake fitment for FutoFab front brakes. Current wheel backspacing is 5.25” with the spacer the backspacing is right around 4.8”.

  - I am not comfortable with the wheels running that close to the suspension.

  - Planning on getting the offset closer to the 4.5” point (with no spacer, I don’t want to run a spacer)

  - Brake assembly is massive w/ needed inside room of ~14” total. A 16” wheel is probably a safer bet than a 15”



  - I did get the seats sold that weekend. One less thing in the garage and more money to fix the little things in the project.


Images: No images really today. The timelapse will have to do.



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While I am a few weeks behind on getting my videos and other stuff done. I got my tags today so now I can drive her!

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Driver's side rear door





Driver's Rear




Driver's Front Fender




Passenger's Side rear Door





Passenger's side Rear


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Very cool project. I look forward to how you tackle the rust.

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Very cool project. I look forward to how you tackle the rust.

I will be honest, I am dreading it. I have never done it, but I did buy some tools the other day so I can start tackling the rust. I have been doing some work, but haven't been keeping up with the updates very well so here is the latest.


Project Log (25 Nov 17):

Start Time: Not Recorded

End Time: Not Recorded

Today I got the tires mounted on the Datsun Iron Cross rims. I need the car to get running so I can move it out of the garage, because I will be gone for 2 weeks for work.\

I ended up going to Walmart & got some cheap all season tires to mount on the car. Brought the wheels home and mounted them and moved it outside.

Because I didn’t have a front dust cap I used a spray paint lid to cover the front wheel bearings, until I could get a dust cap for the car (I have no center caps for the wheels).


Project Log (09 Dec 17):

Start Time: Not Recorded

End Time: Not Recorded

Left for two weeks, I got a parking ticket for no tag on the car, and two tires went flat. The wife is amazing, took the wheels off the car, took them to walmart to get them sealed with some goop, and then moved the car into the garage.

Work is crazy and I have been away more than I have been home lately so little work is getting done on the car.


Project Log (14 Dec 17):

Start Time: Not Recorded

End Time: Not Recorded

When I got back from my trip I met Yenpit who was awesome enough to show me around his shop, and to give me a set of dust caps. I also traded my XXRs for a set of 17” wheels that were a better offset. I got the wheels home and they were in fact the EXACT same offset as my old wheels. I should have measured I was in a hurry and it was my own fault so now I have a set of 17” wheels I don’t even like as much as the XXRs and aren’t worth as much. I am usually pretty good at trades, every once in a while you just lose.

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Project Log (17 Dec 17):

Start Time: 1500L

End Time: 1745L

Today I wanted to install the dust caps and determine if the mechanical fuel pump is still good. I also want this to be a daily driver so I am wanting a radio so I want to determine if I can swap in a stereo I already have that will at least give me aux-input.


To Do (Daily):

1. þ Add Dust Cap to Passenger’s side front wheel

2. þ Check mechanical Fuel Pump

3. ¨ Replace radio with updated radio


1. This was pretty straight forward. I remoed the front passenger’s side tire, removed the remporary dust cap (spray paint lid) and then used a very large socket and a rubber mallet to tap the dust cap into place. Then put the wheel back on.

  • To clean the dust cap I used a wire wheel attached to my cordless drill
  • I have center caps for these wheels but they are in Kansas


2. Pulled the mechanical fuel pump next. I didn’t see anything wrong with it so I went ahead and re-installed it and tried it out. It seems to work (Author’s note: as of 13 Jan 18, the car is stumbling on hard acceleration, this could be the mechanical fuel pump or I could be getting low on fuel, only time will tell)

  • The mechanical fuel pump is held on by 2, 12 mm bolts
  • Dumped the old gas out
  • Replaced the old fuel filter
  • Re-installed mechanical fuel pump
  • Ran the fuel hose without cutting it down (will need to shorten later after I determine it does work well)
  • Disconnected electric pump from battery
  • Attempted to start the car
  • Car started right up
  • Removed the electric pump
  • Adjusted idle


3. Removed radio face plate and looked at it. I had to leave in about 30 minutes so I threw it all back together and went inside

I am hoping to get the car tagged soon, the wife wants/needs her garage spot back, and I want to drive this car


Notes: (Section for statements at the end of the day that don’t follow the to do)

-  Future Projects (wants)

  • Tachometer
  • Vinyl 510 emblems
  • Relocate battery to the trunk

- I also attempted to remove the slack from the ignition coil mount so I could remove the paper “gasket” around the coil, but it will not tighten enough to keep the coil secured, so I left it alone for now


Images: N/A

Links to Timelapse: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aGgU50J05RA&index=3&list=PLLssIyjv-gNXYYNhGGEvCo3Otv7SUO5Xa

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The rust is definitely the hard part. I have bad rust on both my rear corners. I'm having them cut out by a friend of mine and new panels put  on. From your pictures, the rust is in similar places. Some of it may be worth taking out and replacing metal, if you have the tools. 


Have you taken a look at the floorpans? Chances are if you have rust where you do, you may have a few pinholes there. Maybe that's just my car, though... 


Lovin' the videos.

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Like the vids and good narrative.


Well done.

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Working on the stereo today. I want to replace my radio with a CD player that has an auxiliary input


To Do (Daily):

1.  þ Remove old radio
2.  þ Inspect Wring
3.  þ Mount New Radio
4.  þ Re-assemble

1.  The old radio came out easily. The stock dash hadn’t even been cut up so it pained me a bit to cut it, but it is my car. The radio was secured with the side mounts and volume/tune knobs as well as a metal strap on the back. The radio wire was very cleanly done so I attempted to preserve that


2. The radio was wired in with a nice adapter so I left that along. There is definitely extra wiring , but it is so well bundled that I am not going to trim out the extra right now. Of note there is a speaker in the middle of the dash that is not currently hooked up to anything. In the future I will likely remove that speaker.
- The front and rear grounds are tired together on the wiring
- There is a spot for a dash light on the 510 that literally has nothing hooked up to it
- Using the existing wiring and the wiring diagram, I made the old adapter work with the car without cutting into the stock wiring harness
- Wiring was WAY better than I was expecting
- I soldered the entire harness so it should last a good long time


3. To mount the stereo I used the side tabs that were located on the side of the old radio. I mounted them but realized on test fit that my stereo was sitting way father back so I had to mount the tabs much farther back.

- Had to cut the original plastic to let the front of the radio poke through the dash


Accomplished this by measuring dimensions of stereo
Cutting a paper template
Taping to desired spot on the back of the plastic
Using white spray paint, I lightly painted the back of the plastic to give a negative of where I wanted not to cut (originally I used markers, I couldn’t see my marks very well so I used paint)
I didn’t have any dremel cut off wheels so I used a hacksaw blade and carefully cut along the lines. This definitely took patience
To turn the corners I drilled pilot holes (3x) to get my hack saw blade in and then cut down
Finished it all off with files and sand paper to smooth all the cuts


-  The cutout is very clean and I cut it with minimal extra space around the sides so I think it looks really good
-  I ended up having to weld the side mounting tabs onto the stereo itself, 3 medium tac welds per side
-  Had to add a new mounting holes to the side tabs because the old radio was slightly larger than the new stereo


4. The stereo and dash went back together very easily. It looks relly good in there, and now I can listen to my tunes. 

- Bonus: I found my Relient K album that I thought I lost YEARS ago, turns out I left it in the stereo when I removed it from my 280z probably about 8 years ago
- The speakers in it are super crappy so I will likely look for nicer replacements in the coming months


Single Image: 




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Project Log (10 Jan  18):

Start Time: 1300L

End Time: 1530L


I finally got tags so I can drive the 510 daily. It is missing quite a bit under acceleration I don’t know whether this is a low fuel issues (I have never fueled it up, I am trying to burn the old fuel off)

To Do (Daily):


1. þ Mount Horn Button

2. ¨ Get long battery cables from the junkyard


1. Cut into the horn button mount additional slots to mount behind the steering wheel so I could mount the horn button, I used my dremel to slot it. I actually bought some cut off wheels so it was pretty easy to do.

- Mark spots to drill pilot holes

- Drill pilot holes

- Cut down to pilot holes with dremel

- Mount

- Install horn button

2. I went to the junk yard and pulled two long battery cables. One from a 3 series BMW and another from a Volvo S60. The S60 was much harder. It also has a nice power distribution box. That will be good to use in other projects. The pieces were about $6.50 plus the cost to get into the UpullandPay. I will be using these to mount the battery in the trunk.

Notes: The car is running and driving which makes me less likely to work on the flaws and just enjoy driving it. But there is definitely some work I need to get done in the next couple months below I broke out the near term and mid-term goals for the car. I also ordered all of the wheel bearings so I can do the coilover swaps, as well as the rear brake swap.


-  Short Term (before Feb 20)

o   Battery Relocation

o   Coilovers installed

o   Check fuel tank

o   Fix the stumble

o   Tighten shifter linkage so it doesn’t wander as much

-  Mid Term (End of April)

o   Fix exhaust (add a gasket, and add a muffler)

o   Find small oil leak and fix if possible

o   Wire tuck (purely cosmetic)

o   Swap rear brakes


Images: N/A

Links to Timelapse: N/A

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Project Log (13 Jan 18):

Start Time: 0900

End Time: 0945
I want to get the shifter tighter. It is very hard to tell where I am shifting to currently.

To Do (Daily):

  1. Remove shifter coverings
  2.  Remove Clip and pin
  3. Create shim
  4. Install shim
  5. Reassemble

1. In the past the shifter boot had been spilt so there was no need to remove the shift knob, everything past that was just moving carpet and insulation out of the way.

2. The pin is held on by a C-Clip. I removed it easily and almost lost it onto the transmission, had to use a magnet to get it out. The pin slid right out

  • An assessment of the shifter it appears there isn’t an excessive amount of play in the shifter, it is just a terrible design

3.  For the shim I tried 2 different washers, both were too thick to slide in, I then tried to make a shim from an aluminum can, which seemed to be much closer to the desired width

4. There was NO installing a shim. The aluminum kept folding over and not going in. I gave up, and put it all back together. This problem will be solved when I install the 280zx 5-speed transmission some day

5. Everything went together just fine. With C-Clips you have to be careful not to drop it before it is fully in place or you might lose it


  • I failed to actually accomplish anything today
  • I would like a new shift knob at some point and time, this one is ugly and messed up

Images: Nope

Links to Timelapse: None today

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Project Log (13 Jan 18):

Start Time: 1700

End Time: 2200

Decided to weld in my first patch panel. I want to relocate the battery to the trunk. The spot I want to put it looks like swiss cheese

To Do (Daily):

  1. Cut out old pieces
  2. Make template
  3. Cut New Metal
  4. Shape
  5. Weld in place (Still need to go back and finish)

1. I thought I had already purchased cut off wheels for my new angle grider, I had not so the first thing I had to do is run to Harbor Freight to get more cut off wheels. I did use my dremel for the first portion, but it just ate the cut off discs too fast, and I ain’t made of money.

  • The cut off discs for the larger grinder aren’t as nice as the dremel, but they also aren’t nearly as expensive
  • I could use a better work table, but I already have the kids go-kart on it
  • A combination of the 4.5” grinder and dremel was how I removed all the metal
  • I decided to leave the raised area which made it way more difficult to create the patch panel (hindsight says level it)
  • Used sanding wheel to clean up the areas it worked really well cutting through the old tar type stuff a previous owner sprayed in there

2. I used construction paper and crayons to make the templates. The Cut out looked like the first image in the images section (where the dotted line is a curve up to meet the raised section).

3. A friend of mine (Thank you Darrel) game me some metal so I traced the replacement piece onto it

  • Learning Point: You need to be very precise with tracing and creation of templates (I more ballparked it and it added a TON of time)
  • I cut the piece too big, and I didn’t cut everything in straight lines which requires more precisions
  • I used the 4.5” Cut off wheel to cut out the entire pice

4. I did not do a great job of bending the piece into place. I did use a vice and a piece of wood to shape it, which did give me a good surface to shape against (Another reason to cut out a larger piece to help with this

5. Tac’d in the panel after making several more cuts and shaping changes on it

  • I had quite a bit of burn through (I was using .035 flux core, will be switching to .030 flux core next time)
  • I tac’d then moved around
  • I did a ton of adjustments on the machine (probably didn’t help that much),  I watch a few videos after on YouTube, I think I have some ideas to do better next time
  • When I finished there were still quite a few holes in the welds, and the excess needs to be ground down


  • Need thinner wire
  • I did not take out fuel tank, the though process was that a closed system nearby was better than an open system
  • Had to weld in a washer to get a good ground contact, also after watching some videos I think I can get an even better ground next time which could help as well.
  • I am not currently happy with the results
  • I painted the areas with some paint to prevent rusting
  • Sanding flap discs are amazing



Links to Timelapse: No, I didn’t take video after the first couple hours as I was unhappy with my results and didn’t want any evidence of that.

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  Project Log (19 Jan 18): Day 1

Start Time: 0930 End Time:1200

Start Time:1630 End Time:1700

Project Log (20 Jan 18): Day 2

Start Time:1130 End Time:1330

The first real upgrade on Benjamin Frank510. Changing out the rear suspension with some TechnoToy Tuning adjustable coilovers.

To Do (Daily):

  1. Remove Wheels
  2. Removed Shocks
  3. Remove Axles
  4. Remove Springs
  5. Install new shocks and springs
  6. Install Axles
  7. Install Wheels

1.  Nothing significant to report, they came right off

2. The shocks were actually taken off after the axles. They came off very easily. The jam nuts up top and the single bolt on the bottom were relatively easy to remove. I made sure to soak anything that was on the outside of the car in WD-40 to help me bust it loose.

3. These axles did not remove easily. The 14mm bolts and nuts were rusted tight and looked like the had been rounded off in the past (at least a couple of them). I was able to break most of them loose with my superior strength, WD-40, and heat. Not all of them came off and a couple had to be cut off with the dremel and the patience. I replaced the bolts/nuts with some bolts from Ace hardware. Each bolt/Nut combo was a bit over $1, but they are at least new and shiny.

  • Heat helps
  • There is definitely some spots in the rotation where it is easier to get a wrench on
  • You should pre-soak all those nuts in WD-40 or some other penetrating oil
  • Just buy all new bolts (think about using anti-seize)

4. Holy Cow! These were a pain in the behind to get off. I finally had to get my spring compressors back from a buddy who borrowed them many moons ago. It seemed that the rear control arm was bound on something and not allowing it to go all the way down. The driver’s side finally slipped off the jack with a thunderous crash into the ground (I still have all my fingers and toes), which unbound the control arm and allowed me to easily remove the spring. The passenger’s side I used a spring compressor and it came off a bit easier.

  • You have to remove the bumpstop bolts as well as they bind up the bottom of the spring if they stay bolted. The passenger’s side broke when I attempted to loosen it
  • The manual says to remove the parking brake cable. I didn’t with no ill effect, it never even appeared to “tighten” there was always slack
  • A spring compressor can help, but should not be required to remove the spring

5. These went right in. I tried to keep the ride height up a bit more than “MOAR LOWER!” I set the struts on “1” for softest setting because I want it to be a comfortable daily

  • The kit didn’t come with a metal washer to use against the body at the top of the strut tower so I added the one from the old strut (don’t throw out washers/spacers)
    • This required me tightening the strut placing the jack underneath the strut ensuring it was secure, removing the upper nuts, removing the rubber and installing the metal washer (it was a two step process)
  • Before you install make a conscious choice where you want the adjustment knob and set screw for adjusting ride height so you don’t have to remove parts later

6/7. These went right back on no issues, just make sure to really tighten those bolts


  • After driving the car it seems like it will be nice, but the springs are a little close so there will likely be some rubbing
  • It has been snowing so much that I have not driven the car much lately
  • The specifications for the kit are 200LB springs front and back
  • This project took way longer than I budgeted in time
  • Weight Savings (Sorry I measured with grams, before realizing I could switch to lb’s and oz) I converted at the end
    • New Part: 3459 grams
    • Old Spring/Bumpstop: 3967 grams
    • Old Strut: 1466 grams
    • Difference = -1954 grams or 4.308Lbs per side




Links to Timelapse

Edited by Aaron Datsun
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I have been keeping my log (though not as verbose) I have been doing tons of work. In the past week:

- Engine and Transmission taken out (lost a weber main jet I dropped it and I CANNOT find it)

- Cut out several rust spots in the engine bay (Not done there)

- Currently getting drive shaft shortened

- Cleaning and swapping things to the L20B and the 280ZX transmission

- Cut out the battery tray (will locate to the trunk)

- Removed front brake lines


End Goal: Rust holes fixed in the engine bay, L20B and 5 Speed swapped drive the car!

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Still working, but figured I would show off where I am currently. I have all the timelapses, but just haven't had time to edit the videos, been working on the car too much. I wanted to give an update though. There were HUGE rust holes in the engine bay so I did my first real rust repair under the hood and did a bit of painting I need to get the car running under its own power very soon so I am having to put in quite  a few hours.


From when I pulled the engine to all the work that got me to tonight!







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Is this car 817 tan?

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I have zero idea. I took the battery tray into a company called finishmasters and they color matched the paint. They did a fantastic job.

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If you look on the bottom side of the upper core support, it *might* be stamped into the metal. Also it's printed on the middle(?) sticker on the core support, but like many, they have been wiped away over time.


This looks like my car, which is 817.




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My sticker is completely un-readable, but yeah I would say that is the same color. Work was somewhat slow tonight I was cleaning the last of the brake lines so I can re-install and do other stuff like that tomorrow evening hopefully. I have a few days off coming up, I am hoping to get this thing buttoned up sooner rather than later.



If you look on the bottom side of the upper core support, it *might* be stamped into the metal. Also it's printed on the middle(?) sticker on the core support, but like many, they have been wiped away over time.


This looks like my car, which is 817.




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First video is up. No work on the car for the next week :(. 


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My sticker is completely un-readable, but yeah I would say that is the same color. Work was somewhat slow tonight I was cleaning the last of the brake lines so I can re-install and do other stuff like that tomorrow evening hopefully. I have a few days off coming up, I am hoping to get this thing buttoned up sooner rather than later.

It should be stamped into the metal itself. Underneath the emissions sticker (if you still have that),just to the right of the hood latch on the core support. If you have the sticker but don't want to remove it you can feel the underside to see if you can make out what the code is.


Hard to see in my photo, but it's there. "831". I'm only able to make out the 3 and the 1 from the bottom side of mine. RzLPd5n.jpg

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