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d.p

Broken timing cover dizzy mount

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I hunted around and found a 60 gallon tank/compressor with a working pressure of 150psi, I have to use a regulator on certain tools.

I paid $500.00 for it, the only thing I was not happy about is that it doesn't recover like I hoped it would when using orbital sanders and other such tools that use a lot of air.

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My 1/2" pneumatic impact won't take the crank bolt out of my Toyota 7M (torqued to 195 ft/lbs).

I can hammer on it all day, and all it does is make the socket get hot, and mess up the plating on the bolt.

 

The only way to get it loose is with a 4' cheater bar.

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I have a cheap electric and snap bolts loose with a wrench and just use it for the laborious turning of the tight nut. Most of the bolts I need to turn are below 15mm so not needed much.

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For bolts that are super tight, I hook the impact gun up to my CO2 tank and crank the pressure up to 250. That usually works.

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Well JB weld didn't hold and it started leaking a tiny bit of oil out of the dizzy mount.    I re-jb welded it and then went to work on getting the TC off my spare motor.  

 

I put the head on and tried to get it off which didn't work.  Tried laying it on its side and bracing the cam bolt w/a socket and that didn't work.  In the end I just took the pan off and shoved a piece of wood in the crank and used my jack handle as leverage to break it loose.  What a son of a bitch.  Now time to clean it up and swap it on my truck when I get the motivation.

 

37436743964_f305989cd3.jpg

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Yep, the old block of wood. How did you keep the block from flopping around with all that torque from the jack handle?

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Nothing in the end, just kicked the shit out of the jack handle which broke the bolt loose and wedged the wood nice and tight in the crank.  

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Like I've said. I've done this to blocks without heads on just laying on the junk yard ground. The inertia of the rotating assembly is enough resistance.

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