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Broken timing cover dizzy mount

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Maybe a long screw drive in between the crank bolts? And I thought about putting the head back on, short or long bolts around #1? I ask because my son knocked over my labeling cardboard so I got no idea which is which anymore.   Even when the head is on do I need to hold the cam bolt when I break the crank loose or is having the head on enough?  

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Not if the cylinder is packed with rags. No need to even have the cam in the head.

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Pull oil pan, block crank with board, long breaker bar.

This is the best way to get it done. The board provides a positive stop for the crank without damaging anything when you wail on the breaker bar.

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If you take 2 of the bolts out of the crank in the rear a 2X4 might fit between the rest of them.

Personally I would just lay the thing on its side, stick a 2X4 in the crank and be done with it, it's just an L16 block, I would never rebuild an L16 block, I would get an L20b as that would be the best bolt in upgrade you can make to a 521.

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Personally I would just lay the thing on its side, stick a 2X4 in the crank and be done with it, it's just an L16 block, I would never rebuild an L16 block, I would get an L20b as that would be the best bolt in upgrade you can make to a 521.

It won't hurt anything. The wood is a lot softer than anything in the crankcase.

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If you take 2 of the bolts out of the crank in the rear a 2X4 might fit between the rest of them.

Personally I would just lay the thing on its side, stick a 2X4 in the crank and be done with it, it's just an L16 block, I would never rebuild an L16 block, I would get an L20b as that would be the best bolt in upgrade you can make to a 521.

 

This begs my next question, I can get a L20B engine for $200 or a rebuilt L16 w/arias Pistons, eagle cam for $700.  Is one a better buy than the other?

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I wouldn't trust a rebuilt anything for $700.

 

Go for the L20B and have it rebuilt. At least then you'd have some kind of warranty. A good machine shop should be able to do a basic rebuild on a L20B for $1000, maybe less if they know which corners to cut.

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Best upgrade I ever made was going from an L16 to an L20b, second best upgrade was going from an L20b to an LZ23.

Going from a down draft to dual SUs was also great, but I bought them new from Nissan when they had a clearance sale, that was a great upgrade, but the L16 to L20b is the best bolt in upgrade I ever made.

I have so many great upgrades I have done over the years, it's hard to rate them against each other, but the best upgrade I ever made hands down is going from a naturally aspirated SD25 diesel engine to a turbocharged SD25 diesel engine, the driveability change was unbelievable, one just doesn't believe that something can change that much with so little effort, especially when I had all the parts for years but didn't know how to do it. 

 

I would spend the money on an L20b, what head casting does this L20b have?

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Head casting is everything, need to know what casting it is.

I know of him, bought some parts from him in the past.

A87 heads can be open or closed, U67 heads are all open but have large valves and large intake ports, when the right pistons are used it becomes a race head.

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Most likely you will have a U67 head. They are the best L20B head.

 

To get the most out of a closed chamber head you need flattops. Don't bother with that idea.

 

 

U67 head with L16 exhaust manifold and intake. Drill out the two missing water coolant holes, 3/8" will do, and away you go.

 

Two liter engine with cast iron header. :thumbup:

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Assemble with the distributor holding it in place

Looks like what the person who assembled last did

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Got a questions.

 

I have a spare l16 which I took the head off and now want to take the timing cover off. What is the easiest way to remove the crank bolt with the head off (chain is wedged)?

IMPACT wrench

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IMPACT wrench

Yeah, I know.

 

He says he doesn't have an impact wrench. How can you work on cars and not have an impact wrench?

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Simple..... Datsun owner. If we could afford proper tools we probable wouldn't be driving one.

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lol...I can afford all the right tools but I won't buy them unless I absolutely need them.  And I choose to drive this fucker and find myself wondering why I suffer through all of it.  I love the truck but it is without a doubt a royal pain in the ass to own and maintain.    

 

Anyways, I can hit this with an impact gun and not have to block the crank or put the head back on?  If so I will just take the block to the shop and have them hit it.  

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Yeh, I hear you but hang in there. You have to realize our vehicles are over 40 years old and things will fall apart. So don't take it personally.

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There is a direct correlation between the right tools and the quality of the work. I'm not saying you need to run out and get it all, but the bare minimum tool set includes an impact gun.

 

Yes, the impact should take the bolt out.

 

These older vehicles are so simple, if you go through the truck one system at a time (ie- brakes, fuel, wiring, suspension, etc) it will make more sense, you'll be more confident in its abilities, and before you know it, the whole truck will be 100% (or close to it). You are working on the engine right now, so make sure it's as close to 100% as possible so you can check that off the list and move on to the next system without worrying about the engine.

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The thing I like about my 521s is that they are so uncomplicated that I can figure out what broke and fix it on the road with screw drivers, pliers, and a 10mm wrench, a test light would help a lot if I actually carried one. 

I have done some extreme stuff to get home, like removing the valve cover to pump the fuel lever just to get 2 miles before having to do it again, and I had to do it over 10 times.

I also had a cop telling me he was going to call a tow truck and I said don't do that, I will get it off the road, and I used to starter to move it 70 feet, he shook his head and drove off, I had in running a couple minutes later, it was a bad connection to the Matchbox distributor.

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wayno my 521 crank bolts sheared of, stalled engine, not that it mattered much. I used the starter to pull me two blocks in order to park it legally. First fully electric 521 in Canada.

 

Distributor wiring got caught in the fan belt while doing stupid shit. It quit instantly. (hold my beer) I hand backed the engine up and freed the (well chewed) wires. Plugged it in fired up and kept going.

 

Melted the throttle cable at 2 AM  because no bungee cable. Set fast idle and crept 15 miles home. Cop stopped me going 25 down the highway, by then 3 AM and very quiet. I showed him what was wrong and how I was coping with it. He shook his head and offered to escort me the last 3 miles. Great dude, I smelled of beer.

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You could have stuck a stick in the fast idle to move a little faster, or stuck a screw driver down the throat of the carb as long as it didn't open the throttle up to much.

Justin had a piece of plastic crap come off the air filter I believe and get stuck in the secondaries, and it would rev to 3000rpms, but in gear it would not have been to bad.

There are lots of things that can be done with a couple screw drivers and a pair of pliers, and extra screws, nuts, and bolts you have laying around in the trunk or under the seat, like I have said before, the only time I have ever been towed home in a Datsun was when that piece of shit dogleg 5 speed locked up, that left a lasting impression on me.

 

Fully electric :lol: :lol:

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Lol the things I got to look forward to with this fucker.

 

As far as impact guns pancake suffice? Oil vs non-oil? My dad has the 26 gallon craftsmen and it’s loud as shit when it fills.

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The electric impacts I have seen are wannabees, I have a Dewalt impact, when I want to take flywheel bolts or crank bolts off, or even lug nuts off I grab my air impact, I have 2 of them, a light duty tool, and a slow the earths rotation tool that has broken impact sockets.

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Lol the things I got to look forward to with this fucker.

 

As far as impact guns pancake suffice? Oil vs non-oil? My dad has the 26 gallon craftsmen and it’s loud as shit when it fills.

Are you asking if a small compressor will work?

 

It's all about the PSI. If you can get over 120 PSI, then it shouldn't be a problem. Tank volume is only a factor if you are doing constant work with tools like a D/A sander.

 

Yes, the oilless compressors are loud, but they work. If you can afford it, buy something similar to the compressors on this page - https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/category_air-tools-compressors+portable-air-compressors+21-gallon-above-air-compressors. They will last a long time and you won't go deaf, and really, they are only twice the cost of a cheap oilless piece of crap.

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