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Datfish

A 620 in Texas

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Not really a build, more of a resurrection/survival thread....I will add some pics soon, most are on phone or camera...

I got it from a guy in Austin about 7 years ago. 

I found a notice inside that the apartment managers had posted on the truck that it was "unacceptable" I think it was, to grace their complex, and needed to go.

It was a nice place, but really?

1973 regular cab, regular bed.

Paid $1500.

Recently rebuilt the L16 and ready to re-install, but I want some sage advice as I go back together, so thanks, fellas.

 

Most urgent now is, I got an OEM release brg shipped from Houston in 3 days for a couple bucks more than Autozone wanted for Chicom crap..

it feels smooth, but should I pack some more grease into the bearing itself since its been sitting, or just inside the collar?

 

Also, the 4 speed's input shaft wiggles a little...is this normal?

Found a 2013 pic on my comp...moving my Pop's pit after he passed...solid cast iron, around 300lbs. I think. 

It looks a little rougher now, dude had done a rattlecan resto.

dAn8z56.jpg

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One of the 1st mods was 3 in. blocks and bar re-index....

Sad to discover that it had been punched in the face at some point, the core support was just bashed back forward and improvised. 

I am going to do something there very soon. May have to fab up something to replace the lower section, can't find one.

Also have just cut free the battery box to patch a hole from acid rot.

As I said, I promise oics.

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One of the 1st mods was 3 in. blocks and bar re-index....

Sad to discover that it had been punched in the face at some point, the core support was just bashed back forward and improvised. 

I am going to do something there very soon. May have to fab up something to replace the lower section, can't find one.

Also have just cut free the battery box to patch a hole from acid rot.

As I said, I promise oics.

Same here. would love it if you post whatever solution you decide on.

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Yeah, I look every day...all over...There's an OEM one in Greece too....that one in Mexico is $400 after shipping, dude.

There's probly one in some obscure yard somewhere around here.

But a tube or other method wouldn't be too bad, it hides behind bumper and valance, the top ledge of mine is serviceable.

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UXaJOJ1.jpg

 

 

For Farmer Joe

 

I had saved that sticker from approx. 1982, it was a Pioneer Seed one I got when workin' on Maggie's Farm during my misspent youth.

I liked the esoteric reference to one the medicinal herbs I may have nurtured. shrug.gif

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The lower bar that's whack,and this is the good section..I guess they screwed/welded that tube for shape when it was "repaired"

I started drilling it off with a big ass drill bit, but I'm gonna do the rest with the HF spot weld cutter. I was trying to see if it was easier than trying not to drill holes thru with the spot weld cutter when u don't stop in time, but it wasn't that much better. 

I saw an Aussie on youtube sharpen a drill bit to some flat angle to make a spot weld cutter but I lack the skill.

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The bad...top view

cMZoIVe.jpg

 

bottom view

xjTqiCv.jpg

 

tree or pole

YtT1KMo.jpg

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I've cleaned the frame rails and painted with Rustoleum Industrial Enamel. You can see where the frame was tweaked just behind the angular box sections, in front of the idler arm. Since it's forward of the suspension, I hope the truck's not ruined.

I have one of the Klotz exhaust flanges, gonna try to fab a better downpipe and do a little bigger exhaust.

I have some round top SU's and a Racer Brown cam I saved from my 510 in the 80's.  ;)

I know it's not optimal for the head/comp I have, probly, but it's what I have...the original carb was missing internals and ran badly.

This isn't supposed to be fast, I have a boosted Honda for that, but the setup will look/sound good anyway.

Wipe pattern and rocker geometry is kinda embarrassing right now, but I need this running and back together. 

Already was running the above combo when my boy ran it out of oil on the 40+ year old mill, spinning rod brg., I don't think anything was grenading.

 

]xg7cIfp.jpg

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I found OEM main brgs on Ebay, from Kuwait...they arrived, sure enuff!

Hastings rings, Clevite rod brgs (Aluminum sadly, couldn't find bimetal )

Hitachi KA oil pump, Standard L16 crank from a 510 on ebay, ARP rod bolts in the original rods resized at my friend's machine shop.(Pray)

Already had been running the Tsubaki timing set same make as OEM that I took off. Chain had broken a guide and wreaked havoc when I got it.

Pieces of guide in bottom of timing cover lodged into the crank gears, crank pulley cracked, dowel on L16 cam broken, hence the swap to the Racer Brown...I had some lash pads but no deep retainers, hasn't spit one out yet.

Those items have been replaced.

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azb1n4I.jpg

 

 

Hitachi  KA oil pump...made in Japan.

Z6miPIp.jpg

 

Honda stainless dowels work if u shorten them!

 

cYTlmHv.jpg

 

Checked some of the bearings, but not all

 

Td1sGGZ.jpg

R7BJAlt.jpg

 

Repaired my oil jet by brazing with brass and drilling with a wire-gauge bit after getting tired of looking for one, almost got one for an SR20.

 

8E3hE0T.jpg

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Damn, those valves look like they are riding deep, but I already had to replace one seat, and the less machine work, the fewer chances for tragedy around here, so.

You can see where a valve smacked that piston somehow... :no:

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On the release bearing collar....there should be a recess where the collar rides on the main shaft of the trans, I always put grease in that.

 

For the sloppy shifter, the bushings wear out.

There is a bushing for the bottom of the shift lever (32861-N4200) and 2 others that go on the side of the shift lever (32855-H1010).  These are Nissan #'s and only apply if you have the original trans (4SPD I'm guessing, or 5SPD). If the trans has been swapped, all bets are off.

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Yep I was gonna do that for sure, but I saw DatsunMike (I think) say to actually pack some into the bearing thru the little opening like packing a wheel brg.

I guess I'll see if it'll take any. 

Damnit my Civic clutch shit the bed today in stop ang go busy traffic. Fucked now.

Don't know what's wrong...can't shift when engine running..I can feel the PP springy when I press and see throwout fork moving. Guess I'll drop the f'n tranny cuz something must be up with the pp.

It's a Comp. Stage 4. 

Fidanza flywheel.

 It drives once under way and can rev match to shift, drove it home this way, blowing 2 red lights and several very stale yellows.

Oh well, this ain't the Honda forum...just sucks to have another car on the injured list.

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Input shaft will wobble, it's normal. It's supported by the pilot bushing in the end of the crank shaft so make sure you replace the old one.

 

Release bearings are sealed so you can't and shouldn't try to grease them.

 

That looks like an L16 (look on top edge of block just below the head, behind the dip stick handle to ID the block size) but you should have a 210 head with a smaller combustion chamber and 8.6 compression. You have an much larger open chamber A87 and it will drop the compression into the 7s.... It will work, but you are loosing a lot on the compression.

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Main bearings in Kuwait?  Crap they should sell them everywhere.

Oiler is still fine looking at the photo. scared a little bit but seen worse

 

 

motor looks good

Thanks, Hainz, I have spent alot of time cleaning items that most sane people would leave alone.

 

The mains were NOS OEM, tho...$27 for the set. 

...and that shot of the oiler is the after pic, it was ground half thru before the brazing

Still haven't started it, got a nice Koyo Japanese clutch release brg. from Advance Auto...packaged with laser dual-image hologram on the box, quality and pride, awesome.

Put the tranny in, cleaning and restoring the driveshafts tonite.

 

Yea Mike, it's the original L16, number matches the plate on truck. So I decided to rebuild it instead of an L20.

Don't know what happened with the head tho.

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