Scgreen620 Posted October 20, 2017 Report Share Posted October 20, 2017 Idk about the 7.5 but I can barely here the 10s on mine. I was thinking of adding a small light that will come on when the fans do If you do add a light can you show me how you wired it? 1 Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted October 20, 2017 Report Share Posted October 20, 2017 Untitled by raymond medeiros, on Flickr No ugly fans.. omg that's sexy 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted October 20, 2017 Report Share Posted October 20, 2017 If you do add a light can you show me how you wired it? Run the fans on a relay. Wire the light in to low amperage side of the circuit. Doesn't matter if it is on power side or ground side of the low amp circuit. When the circuit is activated by whatever switch (automatic or manual), the light will turn on. 2 Quote Link to comment
Scgreen620 Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 Run the fans on a relay. Wire the light in to low amperage side of the circuit. Doesn't matter if it is on power side or ground side of the low amp circuit. When the circuit is activated by whatever switch (automatic or manual), the light will turn on. Do you have a diagram? 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted October 24, 2017 Report Share Posted October 24, 2017 This one is a bit different than what i described. Here they put the light on the high power side and gave it it's own ground. The way i described would put the light on the yellow wire coming from 85. Install it in line before the switches, power in one side and out the other, so it grounds through a switch when the switch turns on. Both work fine. 1 Quote Link to comment
G8KeaPoR Posted October 25, 2017 Report Share Posted October 25, 2017 Watch the fans. Make sure they are actually pushing and not pulling. Last weekend I started and warmed up my 710. Fans come on for 10 seconds and off for about one minute. Seems that in the summer when it was warmer it was 10 and off for 30 sec. So mine did that initially and it turned out to be a bad relay. If I tapped on it then it would turn back on. Replaced the relay and that solved that. FYI my fans are setup to run for a few minutes after I shut off the car just like Ze German cars do. When I replaced the relay I hooked it up that way (temporarily) since it was running a bit hot to try and cut down on heat soak. Anyway since I am ordering my wire this week I think I am going to replace my fans and radiator too so I only have to wire everything up once. 1 Quote Link to comment
G8KeaPoR Posted October 25, 2017 Report Share Posted October 25, 2017 I've run a Sirocco radiator for years, with 1) 10" pusher, and 1) 10" puller, with them offset to cover the width of the core. Works fine, even on 105 degree Texas weather. One fan is wired up with the ignition, and the other through the Sirocco temp switch. Only thing, the cheap ass fans I buy only last 2 years at the most. Maybe if I wasn't a cheap ass, and buy better quality fans, that would be less of a problem. Are you using the Scirocco shroud too? Just curious if I should grab one of those from world pac or go with the koyo or a fluidyne or something. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted October 25, 2017 Report Share Posted October 25, 2017 As long as the power is from a non switched source the fans will come on or stay on after the engine is shut off. I see no advantage to shutting them off with the key. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 So I figured I'll pull the trigger on some pushers and test fit them as pullers. Glad I went that route because the fans are too wide to fit as pullers. Even if, I'd have to run a 8" or 9" and a 6.5" which is less cfm. Mock up as puller. No clearance. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 Post image is being a bitch... more pics later 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted November 10, 2017 Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 What are you doing for your fan controller? 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 What are you doing for your fan controller? I just bought a thermostat switch and relay. Switch is on at 185, off at 175. Probably a little low, but should be okay. I'll wire in a fan LED in the cabin to know when they kick on. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 It was pretty cheap on amazon. 1 Quote Link to comment
flatcat19 Posted November 10, 2017 Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 I just bought a thermostat switch and relay. Switch is on at 185, off at 175. Probably a little low, but should be okay. I'll wire in a fan LED in the cabin to know when they kick on. Thread in probe? Or the o e you stuff through the fins? I ask because I'm looking in to doing e-fan(s). Just gathering who's doing what, where. 1 Quote Link to comment
Draker Posted November 10, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 Thread in probe? Or the o e you stuff through the fins? I ask because I'm looking in to doing e-fan(s). Just gathering who's doing what, where. Thread in, but not sure where I'm going to put it yet since I'm a already running two gauges. There is another spot on the koyo.. maybe it will go there. 1 Quote Link to comment
Lockleaf Posted November 10, 2017 Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 I did two fans hooked to a dual temp bmw switch. It turns on one fan at low (190 degrees) and turns on a second fan if it reaches high temp (210). Also the second fan is tied to my AC wiring so the second fan will run full time whenever the AC is on. Thread in switch in radiator. Pulled from a bmw. Junkyard fuse/relay block. Two small Honda fans that may not be adequate to the job. That's in my "half pint" 510 wagon thread. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 10, 2017 Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 I have similar to this one from a '90s 200sx. It goes in the return hose just cut out 3" and two hose clamps. Run this through a relay and 30 amp fuse. It should be powered at all times and NOT through the ignition. Don't put in the inlet hose. Give the rad a chance to do it's job first or the fan will be on when not needed. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 10, 2017 Report Share Posted November 10, 2017 I recently found a great writeup on fan controllers. It's got links to other pages which also had a ton of other info - http://www.240turbo.com/ElectricCoolingFans.html His 4 speed fan controller is a work f genius and a lot of testing, a bit bulky though - http://www.240turbo.com/fanharness.html 4 Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted November 18, 2017 Report Share Posted November 18, 2017 I've never used a fan controller that didn't let me down. I've gone to thermostatic switches in the head. Much simpler and more effective long term. On at 180, off at 170 or something like that. https://www.ebay.com/itm/185-175-Degree-Electric-Radiator-Engine-Cooling-Fan-Thermostat-Temp-Switch-/262564045727 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 Me too. I've only had fan control failures. My Volvo V70 T5 had a massive electronic controller that went out and instead of spending the money I tried a cheapie from Hayden (I think) and it could barely handle the amp draw of the OEM Volvo fans. So my solution (though not pretty) was a pair of Ford continous duty solenoids. It worked, but was ugly. The reason I like the info in the links I shared above is because it seems that guy has had similar problems and has worked hard to figure them out. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 Odd, I have a pair of Subaru fans and 20 amp fuse between a 720 Nissan relay and + battery. I put spare fuses and an extra relay in the glove box when I read you saying about this huge draw on start up before. It works just fine with the 20 amp. 1 Quote Link to comment
Stoffregen Motorsports Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 There are a few fans on the market these days that pull very high amperage. The fans in my V70 had 50 amps of draw on startup. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 19, 2017 Report Share Posted November 19, 2017 On initial start up of an electric motor it's basically an almost dead short. Current will spike but drop off quickly as it revs up. This is why electric cars have torrid take off torque. The start up is rapid enough on mine it hasn't time to blow the fuse or harm the relay. (well so far) I don't know what the Nissan relays of the '80s and '90s could handle. They're quite robust. 1 Quote Link to comment
distributorguy Posted November 30, 2017 Report Share Posted November 30, 2017 Spal makes relays that can handle a 50 Amp spike. They're the only ones I have seen that require a jumbo spade terminal - bigger than the hard to find extra large ones. 2 Quote Link to comment
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.