XXL Posted November 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 The striking rod rotates very slightly left and right through the neutral gate and forward and back to select the gears.That minor wear doesn't affect any of those motions. Don't worry about it. . The thing that I'd like to cure is the vibration that telegraphs through those parts. Before the transmission work, there was no real vibration/noise other than the road noise you'd expect from a tiny old truck. Now, driving at 50 sounds like a bunch of angry bees are buzzing around. You know that old bit of humor about the dirt and grime holding things together... well, I think when the transmission guy cleaned the case up, he washed away the crud that was keeping those parts quiet. Maybe I just need to mix up some dirt and oil and putty it onto the outside of the transmission :) 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 You have the stock transmission and engine rubber mounts??? Mounts are bolted down, none were missed? The two rubber cones on the shift lever don't help. See if you can slip a washer in there so when tightened it squashes them tighter. My 521 the shifter could be twirled in a circle. 1 Quote Link to comment
XXL Posted November 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 When you say "rubber cones," are you talking about the accordion-looking boot or something else? If the former... 2? I have one... it's torn, got it from ebay seller a couple years ago, and it's already torn. I have a replacement I picked up a few weeks ago, probably from same seller. I just haven't put it on. The hole in it, of course, lets in some noise, but it was torn before the transmission work, so the noise baseline was already there. Also, stock rubber mounts on engine and transmission. I probably won't be able to check the transmission mount myself. I don't feel any banging on the engine side when I rev the engine... so I feel like the motor mounts are good. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 Something got screwed up, as there was no vibration before the clutch was fixed, now there is vibration, is this statement correct? Was the vibration there right after it was fixed the first time, or is this a new vibration since the pilot bushing was replaced? 2 Quote Link to comment
XXL Posted November 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 Vibration noise after original fix. Still there after he pulled a second time to replace pilot bushing. Vibration may or may not have always been there, but if it was, it did not telegraph up through shifter like it has done ever since. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 The shifter had to be taken apart to get the transmission out. Probably got put back together differently. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 I am not saying this is what happened to you, but I had 2 Ford Ranchero transmissions get screwed up because of a bad pilot bushing. 1 Quote Link to comment
datzenmike Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 This round part where the shifter lever goes into. There's a washer top and bottom and the shift lever is threaded on the bottom. When tightened is squeases two cone shaped rubber bushings. 2 Quote Link to comment
XXL Posted November 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 This picture helps a lot. I should be able to check this from the top side. Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted November 13, 2017 Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 Just curious, have you checked the fluid level in the trans and rear end? Checked the driveline bolts for tightness and not being stripped? When clutch work was done did the drive line get marked so it could be reistalled the same as it was before being removed? Did any u-joints get replaced? Quote Link to comment
XXL Posted November 13, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 13, 2017 Just curious, have you checked the fluid level in the trans and rear end? Checked the driveline bolts for tightness and not being stripped? When clutch work was done did the drive line get marked so it could be reistalled the same as it was before being removed? Did any u-joints get replaced? Transmission guy didn't touch rearend. I ASSume he properly filled trans. The first time he pulled it, in addition to identifying clutch rivet failure, he did go inside the transmission to check synchros, replace seals, etc. When truck came home the first time, I got a couple of heavy gear lube drips on the fresh cardboard I lay on the garage floor under my old cars... it's a good tell for any kind of leak issues. A neighbor was able to slide under and noticed the "drip" was a single, dried up run from the fill hole... so, I'm guessing the transmission guy filled it until it puked out a tiny bit, and that is where the drip came from... it was only literally a 1/2" diameter drip on the cardboard, and it never grew, and has not dripped since). Transmission guy said he marked the driveshaft and rear yoke before he pulled it. We didnt discuss beyond that. Again, I ASSume he used those marks to set the driveshaft back in the same spot on the rearend, but I cannot confirm. After the second trip to him, he mentioned the driveshaft had washers welded to it and asked if I had ever had it serviced at Such-and-Such Driveline... a local place. The answer is no, as I've never had any driveline service done anywhere since this clutch issue arose. I don't know if his comments were just small talk, or if he did something as a result of what he saw, or??? No u-joints replaced. On the second trip to his shop, I was going to take him a set of u-joints I have in my spares but I couldn't find any help at the house to get the spares bin down. Last time I tried to get down those bins down, I ended up injuring myself... so wife doesn't allow me on the ladder any more. OK, if you got through that wall of words, I applaud you. 1 Quote Link to comment
wayno Posted November 14, 2017 Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 I had a really bad vibration/rattle in my 720 diesel that was driving me crazy, I finally had to change shift levers to a later 85/86 720 style that had lots of rubber isolating the lever from the transmission, it also moved the lever knob back so it is easier to shift, but I still am not used to the new position. Change out them rubber pieces in the mount arm as the ones you have are fairly ugly looking and it looks like the washer on the lever will hit/rub on the body of the mount arm. 1 Quote Link to comment
XXL Posted November 14, 2017 Author Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 Change out them rubber pieces in the mount arm as the ones you have are fairly ugly looking and it looks like the washer on the lever will hit/rub on the body of the mount arm.That top part isn't mine. It was posted by @datzenmike for reference. I did not notice the condition of those rubber pieces on mine as, ar the time, I didn't know they existed. When I saw the transmission at the shop, it was already out, cleaned up, and that very top part removed. I will try to check them from the top side. 1 Quote Link to comment
Charlie69 Posted November 14, 2017 Report Share Posted November 14, 2017 From your reply it sounds like you have a good transmission mechanic. I had a transmission done in one of my 55 Chevys years ago and the shop forgot to put lube in it. Please XXL do not hurt yourself as we enjoy your posts. 1 Quote Link to comment
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